Yesterday, I took the Minolta 16P with me on a 7 mile run around our city, Billings, Montana. My goal was to shoot a whole roll and develop in Caffenol. I think this was the first time I’d used that developer and film combination. I scanned the negative with my Epson V500. The results are satisfying and like the aesthetic, however I do need to pay more attention dust.
Sure does. Double-X in a 10x14 mm frame gives grain comparable to Royal X in 120 ca. late 1950s, or Tri-X 35 mm from 1970 or so. If you used a staining variant of Caffenol (I don't recognize "Delta Std.") the stain will partly mask the grain when enlarging (due to color of the stain).
The camera's ASA setting only goes to 160. There is no meter and I just use the sunny/cloudy images things on the back and make a guess for exposure to set the f/. It seems close enough.
The camera's ASA setting only goes to 160. There is no meter and I just use the sunny/cloudy images things on the back and make a guess for exposure to set the f/. It seems close enough.
Good stuff. XX is a perfect match for an on-the-move submini photographer. You'll often need to expose in the f11-f22 range depending on the shutter speeds you have available but DoF and camera shake generally aren't concerns. The best characteristic imo is it's flexibility during development and the wide range of looks you can achieve. If you lined up three frames developed in say Xtol, Tmax, and Rodinal you'd almost certainly be able to tell them apart.
I shot a few frames of microfilm in my Minolta 16 the other day rated at ISO 12 (D-23 1+3, 12'), so hand-held use of slower films is realistic as well... at least in strong daylight or with a flash.
I opted for a Mamiya 16 when exposing some Kodak 2383. Heavily filtered (2x85B + Y) for an ISO of 0.8 so I really needed the 1/5s shutter speed...
C-41, positive scan, direct inversion & curves adjustment. Next time I'll replace the yellow filter with an 81A and maybe add some magenta.