Minimum cost/effort processing of 16mm B&W?

Bushcat

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I've put my first roll of 16 mm film in a Minolta 16 using a 3D-printed cassette. I don't have a spiral, but I do have developing tank for 35 mm/126 which is 9 cm internal diameter by 3.5 cm deep to the base of the lid threads. That gives me an internal circumference of 28cm. The film is 45 cm long, which is 1.6 turns in the tank.

I'm considering taping the ends of the film into the tank, and using stand developing so I don't dislodge the film. What could go wrong, apart from everything?

For stand developing, any hints would be welcome. The film is MINOLTA 16 X2 BLACK AND WHITE NEGATIVE/Eastman Double-X 16mm Double Perforated Film from FilmPhotographyProject.com.
 

koraks

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Bushcat said:
For stand developing, any hints would be welcome.
Click to expand...

Yeah, don't. Just agitate at regular intervals, at least every 3 minutes. Why go through everything you've been doing just to mess it up by a known-risky development approach?

Bushcat said:
taping the ends of the film into the tank
Click to expand...

The tape may or may not hold during processing. Who knows? Depends on the tape, I guess...

Bushcat said:
using a 3D-printed cassette
Click to expand...

Do you have a 3D printer? In that case, print a reel.
Or bribe someone to do it for you.
 

Don_ih

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You can take the lid of a plastic container (for margarine, cottage cheese, whatever) and cut it the same outside diameter as your reel, cut a hole in the centre such that it will slip down over the core of your reel, so it can press against the 16mm film that you simply slip into the groove. Wrap an elastic band around the core so that the plastic disc doesn't come off. Don't be overly aggressive with the agitation.

Or buy a 110 reel.

Or turn a normal reel into a 110 reel (that's what I did).
 

spark

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the old Yankee/GAF tanks with adjustable reels are pretty cheap on that auction site, they notch down to 16mm/110
 

VinceInMT

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I just started doing 16mm with my Minolta 16P and was able to quickly modify an old GAF reel to accept 16mm. However, I remember reading back in the 1970s that some were simply taping their 110 film in a spiral wind, emulsion side out, around a small can that has both end lids cut off, smaller than their film tank (like a small orange juice or tuna can), and developing that way. If the tape holds and the wind is slightly loose to allow the chems to flow between the base side and the can, that should work.
 

Bronson Dugnutt

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The original minox development tank operated on a similar principle. The relatively short lengths of film to be dealt with opens up lots of possibilities for improvised reels.

I'd opt for semi- rather than full stand development if going that route. However, doing this with 16mm Double-X will yield ginormous grain. In this format, high dilution stand style development is best used with a proper microfilm. Standard times in Xtol 1+1 (or another ascorbate developer) is my preference for maximum technical quality of 16mm Double-X.

Here's a 24x24mm crop from earlier today of some Double-X processed in Xtol 1+1. Rated at 200 in daylight with a 85B filter.



@ 100% crop

 

eli griggs

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Search/ask the forums for a 16 mm steel reel.

Thats what I did and it worked more quickly that I expected, though that was sometime in the last 10 years.

I also seem to recall a discussion on this site, where instruction/advice were given on hacking and using a Paterson reel for 16mm, but you'll have to ask and search for that.
 
OP
OP

Bushcat

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Attaching to 35mm sounds like the way to go. But, does one actually need any liquid in contact with the back of the film? I'm still thinking about just coiling it inside the tank wall.
 

Donald Qualls

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There was an article linked not long ago on how to modify a Paterson reel for 16 mm use. Since you have a Paterson tank, this seems like the most sensible way to go. The reels aren't hard to come by or overly expensive, and based on the video it shouldn't take much longer to modify a reel than it will to process the first roll of 16 mm film -- plus, you can process two or three rolls end to end (tape the ends together with plain buff-colored masking tape, holds fine for this) on the standard reel plates.

This way, you can use whatever agitation you're used to for your Paterson tank, develop in about 200 ml of liquid (for two or three rolls), and not have to worry about the film coming loose in the tank.
 

Donald Qualls

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eli griggs said:
however here's a video on making these with Patterson reels;
Click to expand...

That's the one that was linked from another thread a while ago. Be sure to follow the link in the video description ("View on YouTube") for a slightly improved modification (IIRC it preserves either the ratcheting or the ability to use the modified reel with the original 35mm/127/120 film sizes).

BTW, the SubClub link worked fine for me, but effectively requires buying and modifying a much less common tank and reel system.
 

eli griggs

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Cheers, the additional info is going to be helpful to those needing reels.

I think because The Sub is rated as unsecured' by my Droid, it's preventing me from loading the site, despite my approval to go ahead and open it.
 

mshchem

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Someone gave me a Velveeta 110 camera. I need to get rid of it before I stray into this realm. Fear
 

guangong

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I use both stainless steel and modified plastic reels for developing Minolta 16 film. Use similar reels for Minox films. With such small picture areas, every precaution must be taken to prevent scratches on film.
 

Agulliver

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I forget where I found the file, but there exists online a free file for 3D printing 16mm/110 reels which fit Paterson and similar tanks. I sent it off to a friend who has a 3D printer who asked me for £15 for the "filament" and postage.....a week later three reels arrived! They were rough and needed some filing but they work OK. Much cheaper than buying genuine manufactured reels if you know anyone with a 3D printer. I can probably dig the file up from me sent emails if anyone is interested.

The spiral reel doesn't ratchet but you can push the film along, as it's not very long.
 
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