Rick Oleson has the option of just a micorprism circle. And very reasonably priced.I just got a microprism screen for my Hasselblad (42250), and I am blown away by how much better it is than the default screen. I am finally able to confidently focus and see it pop in. And it was cheaper than an acute matte! I want a microprism for all my medium format cameras.
Is there anyone who has made a microprism dot screen for Rolleiflex? I have a 3.5e1 specifically. How about for Mamiya TLR? I am looking for screens with large microprism areas without a split image, but I guess a split image is OK.
Rick Oleson has the option of just a micorprism circle. And very reasonably priced.
I have a Maxwell screen with microprisms and split image for my RolleiflexI just got a microprism screen for my Hasselblad (42250), and I am blown away by how much better it is than the default screen. I am finally able to confidently focus and see it pop in. And it was cheaper than an acute matte! I want a microprism for all my medium format cameras.
Is there anyone who has made a microprism dot screen for Rolleiflex? I have a 3.5e1 specifically. How about for Mamiya TLR? I am looking for screens with large microprism areas without a split image, but I guess a split image is OK.
Thanks for the Rick Oleson recommendation. Has anyone here had any experience with any of his screens? It seems just exactly what I'm looking for.
I don’t know but microprisms work best with faster glass. Somewhere around f/2 they seem to become less effective. (So it seems to me).
Thanks for the Rick Oleson recommendation. Has anyone here had any experience with any of his screens? It seems just exactly what I'm looking for.
At the same time, even if split image gets blacked out, or partially so, it is still often there just need to change the angle from which you're looking at it. Microprism in my experience, once it goes, it just goes and on some background patterns it is no help at all,
Thanks for the inside editionThe typical split-image focusing aid only has one axis at which two wedges are inclined to each other. When one half-image just gets blackened-out one can by slight change of eye position make the other black-out, so that one see both alternatively. With the mircoprism focusing aid there 2 or even 3 axis involved.
But with keeping wedges and prism longer "bright" in design, one looses the acuteness of the aids.
There always is a price to pay...
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