Personally I like the DoF of the sensor. With my film equipment I usually stop down to get similar DoF.
You can always stop down a lens to get more depth of field. With tiny sensors like micro 4/3rds, you can never get the DOF that a 35mm sensor can.
When I shot APS-C digital I thought the lack of DOF control was very limiting. I can't imagine how much I'd dislike a smaller format. Small and portable was never a quality I placed much priority in with my gear purchases.
Really?
Did you mean to say the lack of depth of field? Small sensors offer greater depth of field at equivalent settings. My 2/3" sensor X10 could focus from the filter to the moon at f11. On 35mm film I shoot, in order of frequency, lenses of 35mm, 28mm and 50mm at f8 +/-. MFT gives me f8 DoF at lower apertures. Image stabilisation lets me get the shot at much lower speeds - acceptably sharp at almost 1 whole second on my test.With tiny sensors like micro 4/3rds, you can never get the DOF that a 35mm sensor can.
I sold my D700 after using m43 for over a year. I'm currently using the Panasonic G85 and love it. My wife is using a Panasonic GX7 and her 5DmkII is very lonely.
Really?Hehe, well I had TTL cameras on my mind there.
How do you open up to get more light in without lowering DoF on 35mm? There is no absolute truth here, it goes both ways. It depends on what you want.
If you shot 35mm for decades and can't get on with a different crop that's fair enough. There are so many fantastic cameras out there, whatever your desired parameters are there will be a match. I started out with MFT when I made photography a hobby just under five years ago and I feel good about that format.
Occasionally it is nice to have strong bokeh, and MFT will give me that if I set out to get it. But I really like it when I hit DoF such that the background is only slightly out of focus. You can still see what is going on there, but being only slight out of focus it gives it such a 3d pop. It's also nice to get a result like that with film on a 6x6. It goes really well with a low grain/noise image.
The important thing with a digital camera as sketchbook, is it turns out something that looks good straight from the camera. Any modern digital camera can show impressive results with lots of software intervention to the Raw file, but that becomes a whole different activity, and certainly not a sketchbook. I use the same approach with point and shoot film cameras, some choose settings I like and meter well, others not so much and need work in the darkroom or Photoshop.If you are only using a digital camera as a sketchbook, almost anything will do.
Agreed. The GX80 starts up almost instantaneously, which was always my bugbear with compact digital cameras. No point being stealthy if the thing slowly cranks into life and the shot's gone. I'm also a fan of pancake lenses, the 12-32 is plenty sharp enough for my purposes.But often it's better that I have a camera ready, than have the best camera
Yes, I know the lens you mean and have seen shots from it. The biggest advantage apart from its size, is the fact it doesn't need to be focused. That's a real boon in point and shoot situations. My point was flat profile lenses as a whole are easier to carry on your person, stealthier and appear less threatening. I also have two Canon pancakes that stick out no further than the pentaprism.That 15mm/f8, if it is the one I'm thinking about, is called a bodycap lens. That is beyond a pancake. It's supposed to be a fun lens, but anything can be used for serious purposes, of course.
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