Metrolux II Remote Sensor Query

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Hedd-wyn

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HI, I'd like to obtain some information from someone who understands and actually uses the remote sensor that was an accessory for this unit. I will admit I am not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to calibrating equipment and I am a bit stymied by the instructions that accompanied the unit. I emailed the manufacturer of the unit to see if he was still "above ground" and he replied that he was, in fact, still kicking, despite having retired. He said he would be happy to help but my emails regarding instructions have all gone unanswered. I am hoping someone here can shed some light. For anyone who wants to see the instruction manual and follow along, just Google " Metrolux II Timer"

I used the timer on my Aristo VCL 4500 cold light head because of it's ability to compensate and it did a fine job. I never did get around to using the remote sensor and ultimately switched to a compensating RHDesigns StopClock Vario when I decided to go that timing route. I am now trying to repurpose the Metrolux II as a stand alone enlarging meter.

I shoot and develop Fp4+ 4x5 negatives,

The remote probe is capable of three modes: Mode 1 for resizing prints, Mode 2 for matching a grey tone and Mode 3 for projected negative density readings.

The instructions for resizing prints, Mode 1, was pretty straight forward and did a great job when put to the task.

Mode 3 , the projection densitometer instructions, were a bit more confusing but I think I figured that one out. I put an unexposed but fully developed sheet of film in the negative carrier and used it to null the sensor for fb+fog. Without changing any settings I placed a new negative of a winter scene in the carrier and used the sensor to take a reading in what I estimated to be the brightest and darkest part of the projected image that had a bit of detail and subtracted the numbers to get the density range. I then looked up the ISO paper range table and determined the paper grade for the negative (grade 2). The print looked good so I figured my method must have been reasonably correct. The part of the instructions I wasn't clear about was the one that stated "Remember, the true fb+f cannot be measured without removing the negative or having a hole in your negative carrier" Can anyone interpret what this means?

Mode 2 I still can't figure out. Under the instructions "Selecting and Memorizing a Grey Tone" it gives two methods of doing it. I decided on "The Print Method".
As per instructions, I made a full scale work print of a scene with a lot of sunlit Zone V rocks, some deep Zone II shadows, all surrounded by some Zone VIII snow. The print was made with Grade 2 dialed into the cold light head at f11 and a time of 4.8 seconds. The negative was left in place in the enlarger.

The time of 4.8 seconds was left on the timer and I selected Mode 2 by pressing the select key on the remote twice. I noticed that the red indicator light by the expose key on the timer went out at this point.

I decided to memorize the grey tone of the Zone V rock and positioned the sensor on the rock and holding down the Expose key on the timer, I simultaneously pressed the Null key on the sensor. The 4.8 seconds on the timer flashed twice then displayed the time of 30 seconds. I exited by pressing the Select key again. At this point I noticed that the red indicator light by the Expose button came back on.

I exchanged the first negative for a second one which also featured a large Zone V rock.

Again as per instructions, I made sure the timer was loaded with the time used during memorization, 4.8 seconds. Mode 2 was again selected and positioned on the rock. The Null key was pressed and a flashing time of 47 seconds was displayed. The Null key was pressed again and the display had a fixed time of 47 seconds. I pressed Select once and exited.

If you have been following the printed instructions as I went along, you will see I followed them to the letter but the new time for matching the Zone V tone is, quite frankly, absurd. This would have given me a horribly overexposed print. Unless there is something wrong with the timer, I don't understand quite where I went wrong. Can anybody point out where I made a mistake? By the way, the second negative printed on a Grade 2 setting at f11 in 6.9 seconds and exhibited a nice Zone V rock.

Thanks for any input.
 

koraks

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"Remember, the true fb+f cannot be measured without removing the negative or having a hole in your negative carrier" Can anyone interpret what this means?

This means that in order to measure the film base + fog, you have to compare it to something that doesn't have either of these densities - i.e. just a bit of thin air, basically. You'd measure 'air' (nothing) and then a piece of processed but unexposed film, which will give you fb+f. However, for the purpose of determining the contrast range of the image on a negative, it's basically irrelevant to know the fb+f anyway, so I wouldn't bother.

Sorry, can't help you on the metrolux-specific issues. I dabbled with baseboard metering for a brief while and ultimately sold off everything and stuck to test strips. I found I spent too much time calibrating a system while at the same time I would print on one kind of paper one day and another on the next, so I would have had to keep chasing my tail or standardize materials. I didn't want to do either, so that was the end of it. I did make a provision for this kind of stuff in the present enlarger timer I use (which is DIY), but never really made work of a sensor head/probe for the simple reason that engineering that part would cost time I could never, ever recoup in actual printing. YMMV.

PS: welcome to Photrio!
 
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