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Metal vs Plastic Film Tank?

RedSun

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What are the pro and cons of metal and plastic tanks to process BW film?

I know metal tank is study, not reactive to chemical and can be air-tight and no leak. But it transfers heat, heavy on hand and hard to lead film to reel.

Plastic is light, easy to load onto reels, easy on hand, keeping the chemical temperature, but may not be air-tight.

Is there anything else I should consider?
 
I find the plastic reels just as hard to load as the metal reels.

The metal tanks can also be banged harder on the sink to dislodge air bubbles.

I've never had a Jobo plastic tank leak. The CombiPlan leaks like a sieve. I really think it depends on the tank design, not the material.
 
If you use inversion agitation, metal tanks tend to require less chemistry.

Plastic needs to be very dry, so if you have high humidity or need to load in a changing bag, metal reels can be easier to load.

I find 35mm steel reels to be as easy or maybe even easier to load than plastic, but I find 120 plastic reels easier to load than steel.
 
bears

I have found that many people have trouble loading both types of reels. I never had a problem with either type of tank leaking but I guess you have make sure to find good plastic tanks. Use whatever suits you.
 
I found my Paterson reels very hard to load. Especially 35mm. The more it went in, the harder it got. 120 wasn't so much of an issue, but lining up the reel and starting it off if it was curly film wasn't easy.

I find stainless reels to be a breeze to load. As long as you get good quality ones and not the cheap Chinese ones. I have made in japan LPL stainless reels and I can load 120 in 20 seconds and 35mm under 60 seconds. They pretty much self load once you get the technique, but it needs practice first.

The other good stainless reels are Hewe, Nikor and Kindermann.

Also like it was mentioned above, it uses less chemistry, so in long run they are more economical.

Another issue I got with my Paterson was the film getting stuck and getting stress marks on the film. It destroyed few of my good photos.
 
The 3 plastic single reel tanks I have all have top openings. So it is possible that fluid can leak out if I invert them. The other option is to use the smallest Jobo 15xx tank, 1501? The tank will be sealed.

The plastic reels are all built like the Jobo 15xx reels. The grooves are deeper (or higher) than the metal wires. Some even have entry guide, even ball bearing guides.

The other thing is that, plastic can be stained (particularly with color chemicals) and metal wires not....
 
Pick the tank for the job. If you're in a 77 degree room and you're going to develop on the countertop at the 75 degree temperature, then the plastic makes a good insulator against temerature creep. If you're going to do waterbath in a room with a large temperature difference between the room and the chemical, go with the SS tank and put a strip of electrical tape to ward off osmosis.
 
Do you like chocolate or vanilla? Either one is fine. Your choice. I learned on stainless in the 60's and now only use plastic. For me, they are easier. I've never crimped a piece of film with a plastic reel. I'm careful about keeping stuff clean and have enough reels to where I don't have to worry about not having a dry reel. You can learn eaither type. I also do some 4X5 and process it in my Paterson tank witha MOD54 insert. So, chocolate or vanilla.
 
Stainless Steel will last forever, easier to control temperature (except if you have the Jobo system), easy to load wet, easy to clean. However, like anything, it gets down to personal choice. The only plastic I have found to be really good is the Jobo stuff.
 
The secret to loading film with either type of reel is to practice with scrap film until you can do it easily with your eyes closed. I think of it as the Carnegie Hall method. Practice, practice, practice.
 
I learned to load 35mm on stainless steel Nikor reels.
So for me SS is easier to use than plastic.
SS tanks can leak, SOP in the high school yearbook and newspaper photostaff was to run masking tape over the cap/body joint. That also secured some of the caps that were a little loose.
A few years ago I tried loading a 120 roll on a SS reel for the first time. Loaded just fine the first try. As was said, once you have the technique down it is easy, and in my case scalable up to the 120 film.

But bottom like is use what you are most comfortable with. Using something that you are not comfortable with may lead to mistakes and other problems.
 
The big advantage of plastic reels and reason why I got them first before switching to stainless, you only need one reel for 120 and 35mm. With stainless I had to get separate reels. The initial cost of stainless is more, but in the long run it will be cheaper.
 
From my experience (personal and 30+ years of misleading, I mean helping students):
Hewes 35mm SS reels -- the cat's pajamas. An excellent tool is worth a higher price.
120 SS reels, -- brand not so critical for me. Easier than 35mm, especially for big-handed people.
SS tanks are great for stabilizing temp in a water bath, especially the two-120 reel SS tanks.
A SS tank with well-fitting SS lid and cap is a great find (most fill/dump very quickly compared to plastic caps)
Plastic tanks -- too many parts, and they are all made from plastic.
 
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Lots of people use both. I've settled on Patterson after using metal for years. They work great if you keep them clean and dry.
 
I have never - ever and I've tried off and on for decades - been able to consistently load a 36 exposure roll of 35mm onto a steel reel without left over film that just won't fit. SOMETIMES I can, but not consistently.

My Jobo plastic reels are the easiest to load of any reel I've ever used and I never have problems with them. Yes, they need to be dry. But I wouldn't use anything else anymore.

But as this thread makes abundantly clear, YMMV.

Pointer for plastic - never, ever, put your plastic reels into color film stabilizer or black and white wetting agents like Photo-Flo. A few times won't hurt but it tends to build up and make the reel sticky and impossible to load. Remove the film from the reel before these final baths.
 
Back in the day we used plastic reels for our 35mm film. Chicka-chicka-chicka...no sweat.

When I got back into this and started using 120, I decided to try Hewes reels. Took a fair amount of practice to get it, but once I did...no sweat. Picked up some used, off-brand 120 steel reels a while back. Don't like them as well as the Hewes.

FWIW, YMMV, WTF.
 
As you can see, both plastic and stainless steel have their advocates. Some comments:

Good stainless steel tanks rarely leak IF the tank, top, and cap match. The problem is that with used equipment, they may not match.
Hewes reels really are easier to load. I was skeptical at first. But they really are. They are noticeably heavier gauge than other reels.
Plastic reels must be dry, really dry, to load easily (but that's why hair dryers were invented). The do require periodic cleaning too.
 
Years ago I tried basic cheap SS and plastic and being a beginner had inconsistentcy and challenges. Tried a Hewes reel and it was so good I bit the bullet and invested in a whole set for 35 and 120. Not cheap but no regrets. Never and I mean never have had any issues since and still have all reels many years later. If you want no frustrations and never lose a single frame go Hewes. Nothing worse then frustration, anger and sweaty hands in the black bag of an important roll.
 
I've used both, I actually prefer the Paterson plastic reels and have a variety of tanks, one advantage is I can also use them in my JOBO 2000 tank is I want to process 35mm or 120 alongside some 5x4 sheets.

When I used deep tanks commercially for B&Wthen SS ruled but I still used plastic for C41 & E3-E6.

Ian
 
my plastic tank cracked last year
when i did the sink-bang to release the bubbles when
processing a roll of film. it doesn't leak (yet?) but
i am on the look out.
 
L Gebhardt said:
The CombiPlan leaks like a sieve. I really think it depends on the tank design, not the material.
Click to expand...

I have 3 CombiPlan tanks, of varying age, which I've used for 14 years now, and they do not leak when I use them, with full and vigorous inversion agitation... Maybe yours is broken?
 
Roger Cole said:
I have never - ever and I've tried off and on for decades - been able to consistently load a 36 exposure roll of 35mm onto a steel reel without left over film that just won't fit. SOMETIMES I can, but not consistently.
Click to expand...

Try this trick. After winding the film on the SS reel push on the end gently, this will cause the film spiral to expand slightly and allow the last 2 to 3 inches to fit on the reel. This will also keep the emulsion side of the film from contacting the reel.
 

The end of...the reel? The film?

Thanks for the tip. But I doubt I'd need it. I still have a steel reel (an Omega, I think) but I haven't used it in decades. I have a Jobo and a pretty extensive, extensive enough for me anyway, collection of 1500 and 2500 series tanks and reels. And for the times I won't want to use rotary (Diafine, mainly) I have some inversion lids for the 1500 series tanks, so I'm pretty well set with my plastic ones.
 
Push on the end of the film. This will open the film's spiral a bit allowing 2 or 3 inches more to be loaded on the reel. The backing of the film will now contact the reel and not the emulsion.
 
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