Actually, M. Weintraub was saying that after using the Bronica and the Mamiya RB67, it was the Hasselblad that was finicky by comparison.
After using a Bronica SQ-A and Mamiya RB/RZ I find the system of having to make sure everything matches between the body and back annoying and make the system finiky.
I don't find it that way.
The Mamiya RB interlocks are pretty easy to understand once you take time to read the instruction manual. And thanks to those interlocks, when you hit the shutter button and the machine goes "ka-chlotshk", you can be damn sure, 100% sure, that the image reached the film emulsion. So no film waste and no blank exposures.
It is very simple, to be honest:
- If the film magazine dark slide is in place, then you cannot shoot.
---> Advice: Remove the dark slide once you put the film magazine in place, and store it in your camera back.
- If the shutter is not cocked... you cannot shoot. But if it's not cocked, you won't see anything in the viewfinder, so this is not a problem.
- If the shutter is not cocked... you cannot take out the lens or insert a new lens.
---> Advice: On a shooting day, cock all your lenses. In this way, they are always ready. After your job is done and you are about to store the camera, you can uncock all the lenses (so the shutters are stored without tension).
- If the rotating back is not fully rotated... you cannot shoot.
But where is the difference to Hasselblad then? Sounds exactly the same (apart from the revolving back of course).
Safer method of un/mounting lenses without jamming.
Here you go, Kyle. A Hasselblad lens tool.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...hassy_tool_camerakey_tool_for_hasselblad.html
So it's pretty much a shrouded flathead screwdriver so that you don't slip and mar anything, much better idea than a screwdriver for that matter.
Well, yes, the "jamming issue" is overblown. But those not familiar with it and who don't know what to do, they panic.
I'd first heard of the solution back when Robert Monaghan had his wonderful "medium format mega site" around 1998. Shortly thereafter, a writer for Shutterbug trashed the Hasselblad because he jammed it and didn't know what to do. That got far more exposure.
Safer method of un/mounting lenses without jamming.
I could be mistaken because I haven't handled a Hasselblad since April, but I thought that like the RB/RZ you could not remove a Hasselblad lens unless the shutter was cocked? Also isn't there a tool that pretty much resembles a flathead screwdriver that you can insert through the rear of the body to unjam a Hasselblad? The only minor inconvenience I can think of with the Hasselblad and it is a very minor one is that you need a coin or other tool to cock the shutter in an unmounted lens. Whereas on the RB/RZ you simply rotate the pins on the back of the lens, like I said a very minor complaint.
Here you go, Kyle. A Hasselblad lens tool.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...hassy_tool_camerakey_tool_for_hasselblad.html
RTFM!! Any camera can be screwed up by not RTFM!! Try getting over your inability to follow instructions. I have not had a Hasselblad camera or lens jam in years. If you drive like you operate a camera you will soon wrap your car around a light pole.
RTFM!! Any camera can be screwed up by not RTFM!! Try getting over your inability to follow instructions. I have not had a Hasselblad camera or lens jam in years. If you drive like you operate a camera you will soon wrap your car around a light pole.
Here you go, Kyle. A Hasselblad lens tool.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...hassy_tool_camerakey_tool_for_hasselblad.html
RTFM!! Any camera can be screwed up by not RTFM!! Try getting over your inability to follow instructions. I have not had a Hasselblad camera or lens jam in years. If you drive like you operate a camera you will soon wrap your car around a light pole.
So, you don't own the tool?
I own the tool. I learned about it on hasselblad.info. I used it once and I keep it with the Hasselblad to remind me to stay with the program so that I do not need to use it again.
And the earliest E series were marked E, while the subsequent E series were only marked, and were generally called MC.In the case of the Bronica ETRS lens, for example, there were three versions of the 75mm normal lens (E, E-II, PE), and three versions of the 100-105mm macro, and the E vs. the PE full series of all lenses.
I have to agree on the Rolleiflexes, although I should mention that these are the only medium format cameras I have (I also have 35mm and a 4X5 LF Crown Graphic camera). The rolleis I have, even with a somewhat scratched lens, often surprise me in just how good they are.In 6x6 format I'd say Rolleiflex. Throughout the years they have had a large assortment of high quality Zeiss and Schneider lenses. Long, wide, fast, and slow...something for everyone.
In 6x9 format I'd say Horseman. They made a great selection of cam-matched lenses for both rangefinder focus and view-camera focusing.
RTFM!! Any camera can be screwed up by not RTFM!!
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