Claire Senft said:Which of these things can not be done with RA4? In addition to that one could seperate their transparency into separation negatives and make RA4 printing even more a pain in the ass than making a reversal print.
Helen B said:"Graduated neutral density filters are your best friend."
They are my worst enemy. Dislike them strongly. And they only come with straight lines - joking aside, they wouldn't work for me.
But it all depends on personal taste.
Best,
Helen
Helen B said:I prefer negative fiim over reversal film because of the increased dynamic range. My current two favourite films are Kodak Ultra 100 and Fuji Pro 160S. The latter has the advantage that it is available in 220 and 4x5. I'll put some of my snaps into the gallery here soon, but in the meantime you can see examples of both films if you follow the link below and look in the Garden Notebooks portfolio.
Best,
Helen
langedp said:I agree completely with the dynamic range point you make above. Last time I was in the Grand Canyon I shot both negative and reversal (Velvia). The Velvia couldn't handle the range between the shadows and the highlights (sunrise). The 160 VC handled it extremely well. I don't buy the sharpness and color rendition argument made earlier either.
roteague said:One of the reasons I recommended a split neutral density filter. I shoot a lot of sunrise/sunset images, with Velvia. Like this image:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
langedp said:Very nice image. I really like the detail in the sand around the rock. Hopefully it's just my monitor, but I can't see much detail in the rock itself. This is the problem I had in the Grand Canyon with Velvia at sunrise. Too much dynamic range. My shadows were almost black. Couldn't see much of anything. Same conditions shot with Portra 160 VC did much better. No need for a split density filter.
genecrumpler said:To see a professionals comparison see; www.dannyburke.com
He has a comparison of velvia and fuji nps scanning. The difference is dramatic. I did a recent workshop with Danny and he knows MF and LF Color photography.
langedp said:Gene,
Thanks for the link. Very good example of what we've been describing.
Dave
roteague said:My only comment would be on his use of Velvia 100F - a film that has been a major disappointment to most Velvia users. IMO, 100F was never good on greens anyway. A better example would have been to use either the 50 or 100 versions of Velvia.
langedp said:Can't comment on 100F. Never used it. I was using Velvia 50 when I was shooting chromes. I also used Ektachrome 100VS which I actually liked better. Still, I never could get good with the cibachrome process and I gave it a good try. I know others have been able to produce suberb results with Ciba but its a lot of work. Different strokes ...
pentaxuser said:Velvia 100F High(not ultra) saturation, strong(not intensely vivid) colours, high contrast. Ideal(not perfect) for all aspects of commercial photography. No mention of landscapes or nature or use of word perfect.
Pentaxuser
pentaxuser said:Velvia 100: Ultra high saturation, intensely vivid colours, high contrast;perfect for landscapes, nature and commercial photography.
Velvia 100F High(not ultra) saturation, strong(not intensely vivid) colours, high contrast. Ideal(not perfect) for all aspects of commercial photography. No mention of landscapes or nature or use of word perfect.
Pentaxuser
sanderx1 said:I have not used vevia 100 yet (shame on me) but i like 100f more than 50. Quite a bit more really.
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