Medalist II - Three out of Eight

[thuggins]

I just got back the first roll from my new Medalist II. I felt I had scored a good deal on it as it looks practically new and everything appeared to work perfectly. But the strip only had three frames exposed. The shutter obviously didn't open the other five times. I've checked it numerous times by hand cocking the shutter and it fires every time. It appears that there is a problem with the automatic cocking that is supposed to happen when the film is advanced.

Is this a known issue with the Medalist? Do folks resort to cocking the manual lever just in case?

 

[moto-uno]

The only caution I can suggest with these cameras ( I own the Medalist 1 ) is to never
advance the film with the lens assembly retracted . It puts one heck of an angular loading
on the shutter cocking arm (which of course is actuated by advancing the film). I've never
had to cock the shutter by hand , except for the first exposure . Can take some fine
pictures with that camera (and Ektar lens ). If you've advanced the film
(from the second exposure on) and you can still
cock the shutter with the lever you have a problem , the lever should have almost no noticable
resistance to your cocking it, if the film advance has cocked the shutter . I hope this is a
clear explanation . Peter

 

[Dan Daniel]

One thing that happens with the Medalist is that the shutter release and the film advance 'release' are two separate mechanisms. So it is possible to push the shutter button, hear a click (the film advance mechanism releasing) and not have actually fired the shutter. This is actually a pretty common thing in mechanical cameras- pushing the shutter button is activating two different systems with different levers, etc.The two systems can be synced in an overhaul but can go out of sync over time.

Anyway, play around with this possibility. I have gotten some blank frames myself for this reason. Slowly push the shutter release and see if it is possible to have a click without a shutter release. If so, you just need to be certain to push 'through' the first click when firing the shutter.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Also, this is a completely mechanical wonder and not some electrical wiz-bang camera. Which means anybody with a little common sense can work on it with the right tools. By tools, I mean not a tire iron and hammer! The best thing to do is pickup a repair manual off the big auction site and study it thoroughly before attempting to operate. Yes, it's like brain surgery. Know what the heck you're doing before you open it up. Just don't do it without a guiding hand or a repair manual.

 

[RobertP]

Just sent my medalist 2 to Camera Works in Latham NY. He does a complete CLA on medalist for 120.00 this includes a total camera cleaning.

 

[moto-uno]

Haven't heard back from the OP , wondering if he's experimenting with some of the suggestions here ? ^ Sounds like a good price
for a CLA , however , if it requires repairs that's probably an irrelevant expense , no ? Peter

 

[RobertP]

I'm sure if it requires replacement parts that would be an added expense. But to just sync the shutter is probably included in the CLA. Give him a call..nice guy to talk to.

 

[thuggins]

If you've advanced the film
(from the second exposure on) and you can still
cock the shutter with the lever you have a problem , the lever should have almost no noticable
resistance to your cocking it, if the film advance has cocked the shutter . I hope this is a
clear explanation . Peter

This is very good advice. It takes in inordinate amount of force to manually cock the shutter, so this would be a great test.

One thing that happens with the Medalist is that the shutter release and the film advance 'release' are two separate mechanisms. So it is possible to push the shutter button, hear a click (the film advance mechanism releasing) and not have actually fired the shutter.

I seem to recall something about that elsewhere on the interwebs. Having used some trapped needle rangefinders with extremely long, stiff releases (*ahem* 35 SP *ahem*), I figured I could trip a shutter with the best of 'em. On the other hand, we are subconsciously driven to push that button ever so gently, ever so steady. So I'll concede user error for now and try another roll (as soon as I get the 620 spool back from Dwayne's).

As for the comments on a CLA, any 70 year old camera could benefit from one. But this thing looks like it was kept in a hermetically sealed vault. Everything is pristine and appears to work when used properly. But a CLA is always an option.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Um, about 620 spools, after you've removed the exposed film from the camera you can rewind it onto a 120 spool. That's what changing bags are for. I do this with film shot using an Adapt-A-Roll 620. I mean, you can't count on a lab returning spools.

 

[moto-uno]

If you've only got one 620 roll , send me your address and I'll see if I can improve upon this. Peter

 

[summicron1]

If the OP is still reading =-- I just got done shooting a cupla rolls in my medalist II -- the shutter firing after you advance the film is, on mine, disconcertingly quiet, but both rolls came out fine. If there is a problem, the simple solution is to cock the shutter manually before winding the film to the next frame. Only takes a sec. The mechanism is 65 years old, it has earned the right to be cantankerous.

As to the prestine condition -- actually, a camera that has sat unused for a very long time is more likely to not work well -- grease gets stiff, oil dries up. A C and L would be advised.

 

[summicron1]

If you've only got one 620 roll , send me your address and I'll see if I can improve upon this. Peter

which is a very nice offer. You can also usually find them by mining the thrift stores and antique shops. I found a brownie a while ago with two in it.

 

[thuggins]

If you've only got one 620 roll , send me your address and I'll see if I can improve upon this. Peter

I appreciate the offer, but I bought some off the evil auction site and Dwayne's assures me that this time they actually have sent the spool back. Considering I had flagged the spool three separate ways, you wouldn't think it would require another call to customer service. But I will say this much about Dwayne's, when you call their customer service the phone is answered by an actual person who is both friendly and helpful.

 

[moto-uno]

^Glad you were able to get some more. I've been considering putting my Medalist 1
up for sale so maybe I should just include all the spools I've acquired for it . Great
picture taker , but I've got 2 other 6x9's . Peter

 

[RobertP]

I just got my medalist II back from Camera Works in New York. Shutter speeds are much better and it performs beautifully. Well worth the money spent. It's amazing what a CLA will do for a 70 year old camera. The only shutter tester I have is the small black box tester from Calumet. All speeds with the exception of 400 are within 1/6th of a stop. Anytime i buy an old camera or a lens in shutter that I'm planning on using and depending on for performance, I send it out to be gone over and cla. I consider my cameras as tools. Would a good carpenter go to work with a hammer with a broken handle or a saw that was missing teeth? I don't care how pretty and new they look a 70 year old camera is just that....70 years old.

 

[guangong]

I bought a Medalist I from a reliable dealer for $175. Very clean and all parts working except for a frozen filter retaining ring. A late 1944 version with coated lens. Obviously never serviced since 1944. Sent to my repairman who serviced shutter to like new, adjusted focus and cleaned viewfinder rangefinder. Total cost, including cla:$250. A great camera. Through practice I discovered that camera is easier to hold steady with no camera shake when camera is in case. The case is also built to outlast the pyramids.

 

[RobertP]

Allen from Cameraworks offers the same service clean and adjust rangefinder and focus scale and camera lens. plus cla for 125.00. I agree the camera case is built like a tank just like the camera