I have been driving two samples of the Type C were the engine was going made whilst driving. Making it undrivable in even a dangerous way. The first one spent three weeks at the official Mercedes garage as they did not find the cause.
But what does that tell us about cameras??
Second, thanks to modern engine control units, just plug a scanner that "talks" to the ECU and it will report you immediately what is wrong with the engine. So diagnostics is easier.
Third, instead of removing the carburetor for cleaning, you remove the injectors for service or replacement.
Car maintenance has not become impossible at all, just different. I contend that (a) it is easier now, and (b) thus, modern mechanics know even LESS than older mechanics.
Moreover, for those who think that electronic spare parts can't be manufactured... Nowadays you can replace, if you want, your engine control unit (ECU) with a do-it-yourself ECU, for example the "MegaSquirt" ECU. You build the hardware, the software is already made, then you configure it according to your engine.
FAR easier than having to design a the "ideal-for-your-engine" carburetor from scratch and then having to manufacture it, not to mention test it...
If you had a "conventional" car with no computers, and your battery light turned on from time to time, you would have to review items 1,2,3, and 5 anyways. So there is no difference compared to "conventional" cars.
Ignition timing is nowadays controlled by the ECU. As long as the crankshaft position sensor works, timing will never go off. Compare this with the old schema of having vacuum controlled timing retard/advance (anyone who has worked with engine vacuum diagrams knows how this is a pain to service if there is a leak or if some component has aged), and centrifugally-controlled timing advance.
My engine (Mercedes M112 V6) has 6 cylinders but 12 spark plugs. And 6 ignition coils. If this arrangement used the 1970s distributor-ignition, plus the old big ignition coils, it would have taken LOTS of space under the bonnet and would have a maze of wiring to connect. Rather, the coils are driven by the ECU, no distributor. As long as the wiring is good and the spark plugs are good (and these are spark plugs rated to last like 100K kilometers), it should work just fine.
I bought one of those used - a 2003 W220. The engine has been okay, but the rest of the car is lacking. I took such good care of it at first... but if it's going to act like a Chrysler, I'm going to treat it like a Chrysler. The automatic wipers stop mid-wipe for no reason. The radio dies until I restart the car. The wiring system simulates taillight problems I've only ever read about on 60-year-old cars. The climate controls blow how they want despite anything I do (yes, I can replace expensive parts, but really, this level of complexity is unwarranted - and was never an issue for me with fully mechanical systems). I had the crank position sensor die on me, leaving me stranded - I've never had a distributor have a catastrophic failure like that... I could always limp home.Which specific chassis was? The C series spans from 1982 (W201) to present day (W205).
There was a time (class W203) where Daimler bought Chrysler and quality went down including electronics...
If you had a "conventional" car with no computers, and your battery light turned on from time to time, you would have to review items 1,2,3, and 5 anyways. So there is no difference compared to "conventional" cars.
This is debatable. There were also cars with hard-to-access internals down to the 1950s or 60s.
Car manteinance, i repeat, is simpler. Because for example with a modern multi-point-sequential-fuel-injection car (MPSFI - many many modern cars have this kind of injection), you have something almost equivalent as having one carburator per cylinder.
Anyone that has had to work doing tuning on an engine that has one carburator per cylinder (i.e. some racing engines) knows that the latter is MUCH more difficult to tune properly than a modern engine-controlled MPSFI car. Not to mention service...
My engine (mercedes M112 V6) has 6 cylinders but 12 spark plugs. And 6 ignition coils. If this arrangement used the 1970s distributor-ignition, plus the old big ignition coils, it would have taken LOTS of space under the bonnet and would have a maze of wiring to connect. Rather, the coils are driven by the ECU, no distributor. As long as the wiring is good and the spark plugs are good (and these are spark plugs rated to last like 100K kilometers), it should work just fine.
Precisely my point: that built in diagnostics often do NOTHING to identify the source of your problem! You earlier made it sound like it made things a lot easier.
Add all the plumbing for emissions control, that did not exist until the middle to late 60's and was greatly simplified from today when it was initially mandated. Add all the electronic sensors, to greatly add to the points of failure.
You have just admitted your Mercedes is inherently more complex to troubleshoot. If one spark plug misbehaves, which one is it? Oh, replace them both. Yes, and you just admitting how much more cramped your engine bay is because it has twice as many of everything under there for ignition.
Doing surface mount parts "by hand" at home isn't horribly hard. Sure, you don't really want to work on modern complex electronics with only a $15 soldering iron you got from a bargain bin and some scraps you pulled out of an old tool box you found in the back of the garage, but the tools and equipment needed to work and experiment with modern boards aren't restricted to multimillion dollar electronics labs.
This isn't the 1950s.
- A pick-and-place is not an unobtainable piece of equipment these days.
- Reflow equipment is readily available on the market or with homebrew design/modification.
- Specs, guides, technical information, and access to community knowledge is on hand for the price of a cheap cell phone.
Absolutely true.It is the 'innards' or the customized data or instructions which make proprietary chips hard to substitute something when the original part can no longer be scavanged from other cameras.vtr
+1Think of those 50's autos in Cuba. Most of them would be rust here in the states with
the attitude that it ain't worth fixing.
Doing surface mount parts "by hand" at home isn't horribly hard. Sure, you don't really want to work on modern complex electronics with only a $15 soldering iron you got from a bargain bin and some scraps you pulled out of an old tool box you found in the back of the garage, but the tools and equipment needed to work and experiment with modern boards aren't restricted to multimillion dollar electronics labs.
This isn't the 1950s.
- A pick-and-place is not an unobtainable piece of equipment these days.
- Reflow equipment is readily available on the market or with homebrew design/modification.
- Specs, guides, technical information, and access to community knowledge is on hand for the price of a cheap cell phone.
It is not something I would even attempt to go into business for, simply because margins are far too thin and risks far too high, but it is by no means remotely out of reach for personal work by those who actually have an interest in it. (Personally I'm planning to build a home lab/shop in the next decade or so to play with semiconductor fabrication. Sure, I won't be building the latest intel chips or sensor tech at some insane modern nanometer scale, but it isn't magic beyond the reach of man.)
But replacement of any custom designed chips is another matter...you cannot replicate an EPROM if it is dead and its data trapped inside. You cannot replace an image processing chip with another if you do not know its programming nor the pin-outs of its physical packaging
However, the ICs are the electronic parts that are less likely to fail. Unless they had manufacturing defects or really really cheap production standards.
My point is not solely about Integrated Circuits, but to any 'custom' electronics within a camera (or automobile)...once the supply of replacement assemblies (new or used) which are custom to a camera/car are fully exhausted, it is generally not feasible for a craftsman to fabricate replacement electronics components, whereas mechanical parts can often be fabricated from dimensioned drawings. As has already been pointed out, even something as relatively simple as an OpAmp is complicated by the fact that there are different versions of the same fundamental part, tested to different specifications. (My first job was in a semiconductor plant as production supervisor in a plant which made OpAmps and Voltage Regulators both to commercial spec and to MilSpec standards.) So 'custom' electronic parts be challenging to replicate or substitute.
When my Canon 5D died last year, Canon no longer serviced them. Only an independent shop could fix my camera by scavenging a main circult assembly from a donor 5D camera that had a different part failure.
Almost every opamp can be substituted with another opamp. Yes, there are many different opamps, different specs, but a lot of compatibility as well. Because they can be divided into families and each manufacturer does have competing products on each family. Most of the time competitors are also pin-by-pin compatible.
Blame your shop, don't blame the camera designers.
Your shop does not want to DIAGNOSE the problem. As a typical lazy shop, they just want to REPLACE THE ENTIRE assembly. They don't want to find out exactly what is wrong inside.
Blame the shop..
Blame the shop.
If you had a mechanical camera with a malfunctioning Synchro-Compur shutter, and the technician told you "i need to scavenge a whole Synchro-Compur shutter from another camera", wouldn't you suspect that he didn't bother to dissasemble it thoroughly and check it ?
As I stated earlier it was a CANON USA shop...no parts, no schematics. Makes you wonder what documentation (if any) is provided by Canon to independent shops, when their own staff cannot fix something.
I am so glad you are confident in ability to readily fix things electronic in the future, when manufacturer parts are not made for the repair market...perhaps you can advise me how the guy in the TV repair shop can find a replacement for IC3 in this Samsung TV, I provide the schematic for better idea of IC3 functions...
...while the part is available thru NEC, how would anyone be able to figure out it was the malfunctioning part?!
And how, pray tell, would you propose to do that ? ? ?Second, before blaming the ICs, checking out the components that are more prone to failure according to the problem.
The schematic is to tiny to read and there is no info on the external signals..
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