This is true for "recent" cameras. For folders, the distance is measured from the lens. This has been discussed before on photrio, with original documentation supplied as evidence. Other than stating what I believe to be correct information, I won't argue, as there is likely to be someone who will shout louder.Focusing distance is measured from the film plane. Many cameras have a "-o-" symbol on them to show the location of the film plane.
Best to put ground glass in the film plane and do some precise measuring. A few spot points should give you enough to interpolate other distances.
Focus scales are not always reliable. Best to put ground glass in the film plane and do some precise measuring. A few spot points should give you enough to interpolate other distances.
My Ikonta 521/2 with a 105 Novar is a good example. The real 3 meter setting is at 4 meters on the focus ring, in spite of the infinity setting being spot on.
Thanks for the explanation and advice. I'll leave it alone, as it is a great landscape camera. I learned about the multiple thread starts the hard way, by making mistakes. Readers take note: if you succumb to the temptation to remove the front element for cleaning, take careful note of where the threads come free and replace the ring exactly there!The most likely reason for this is that at some point the front element was removed (likely for cleaning or lubrication of the focus threads) and reinstalled on the wrong thread start (most front focusing triplets I've seen have either three or four start threads), then the infinity adjusted via shims behind the shutter. End result is that the front element spacing isn't what it was when it left the factory, and there's more or less change in focal length with front element movement than was originally the case.
If you've got a relatively easy way to work around it, as it seems you do, I'd probably leave it as it. If you want to fix it, there are two or three (three on Zeiss lenses, as I recall) alternative starts; one of them will give correct focus at 3m and still have correct infinity (though you may need to add or remove shims behind the shutter to correct infinity again). It's rather a drawn-out process to get both correct if the original shim setting has been altered, so it's likely more sensible at this point to leave it as is and use a correction table ("lens 3m actual 4m" and multiple additional rows) to get correct focus.
. Readers take note: if you succumb to the temptation to remove the front element for cleaning, take careful note of where the threads come free and replace the ring exactly there!
I was gifted a Kodak Tourist with the lowest spec lens, a 100mm f8.8 triplet. It’s too slow to precisely focus on a ground glass, even at 3.5 ft. The bellows have pinholes so it’s stuck on a homemade 4x5 and will cover, (sort of) 95x95mm, so it’s framed for that. I’m only using photo paper for negatives anyway so it’s tripod work all the way. Stopped down to f22 to f32 and with no more than 2X enlargement it’s hard to not get everything in focus.
Slow triplets can often actually be better than larger ones at the same apertures. Don't know if its some fundamental optical property or just manufacturing tolerances and vagaries.I have one of those in my collection of Tourist cameras. There is actually a lower spec lens than the 100 f8.8 on those cameras. With patience and practice it can actually produce a nice negative. Even though I shoot more with my Tourist that has the 105 f4.5 I still use my f8.8 from time to time.
Slow triplets can often actually be better than larger ones at the same apertures. Don't know if its some fundamental optical property or just manufacturing tolerances and vagaries.
My 105 6.3 Novar beats my two 4.5 Novars at 8 and up. The shutter is also more reliable because the blades have to travel less and less fast. The accessory grove in the lens also take more common filters and shades.
Yes, they had a fixed focus model Tourist with a single element meniscus lens, 86mm working at f12.5 and a front mounted aperture that will stop down to f32, all mounted in a single speed 1/50sec shutter with T and B settings also.I have one of those in my collection of Tourist cameras. There is actually a lower spec lens than the 100 f8.8 on those cameras. With patience and practice it can actually produce a nice negative. Even though I shoot more with my Tourist that has the 105 f4.5 I still use my f8.8 from time to time.
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