MD-12

[Tomwlkr]

Just received a cosmetically cherry MD12, put in fresh batteries but wont power up, rechecked batteries correctly installed, still no joy. Any suggestions, hints?

 

[BrianShaw]

Have you attached it to a camera? If I recall correctly it won’t cycle unattached.

 

[Nitroplait]

What Brian says. + if still no reaction, clean the contacts on the base of the camera and the pins on the motor.
Finally, check battery power and installation again again (I am embarrassed to admit how many times I have found batteries wrongly installed on my third check).

 

[Tomwlkr]

What Brian says. + if still no reaction, clean the contacts on the base of the camera and the pins on the motor.
Finally, check battery power and installation again again (I am embarrassed to admit how many times I have found batteries wrongly installed on my third check).

Update, tried everything, then remembered a P&S from years ago would only work on one brand of battery. Makes no sense a AA battery from X and a AA battery from Y should work the same. Maybe it doesnt like brand new Duracells, took the Everreadies out of my MD4 and put them in and it works!

 

[Chan Tran]

Update, tried everything, then remembered a P&S from years ago would only work on one brand of battery. Makes no sense a AA battery from X and a AA battery from Y should work the same. Maybe it doesnt like brand new Duracells, took the Everreadies out of my MD4 and put them in and it works!

I would check all the Duracell cells. Perhaps you have 1 or more dead cell.

 

[BrianShaw]

LOL… had a similar battery “problem “ with a MD-11 recently. Then I figured out that the batteries I was trying were who-knows-how-old. Eventually found a set that worked thanks to a battery tester. Buying fresh batteries seems a better option than assuming brand sensitivity, although it’s clear why you’d make that assumption. Another consideration is that the battery cassette on my drive is sensitive to how tight the screw is tightened. Just a bit too loose and no-go. Tightened a bit more and go.

 

[Chuck1]

Sometimes the battery holder is damaged and won't keep pressure on the Batts, you would be able to see a gap, try pressing it in, it might come to life

 

[Nitroplait]

Update, tried everything, then remembered a P&S from years ago would only work on one brand of battery. Makes no sense a AA battery from X and a AA battery from Y should work the same. Maybe it doesnt like brand new Duracells, took the Everreadies out of my MD4 and put them in and it works!

Get some rechargeables to save the environment and your wallet.

 

[Dustin McAmera]

Get some rechargeables to save the environment and your wallet.

Not really a helpful reply to the OP, if he already has problems with some batteries being more equal than others. I have various devices that don't like NiMH batteries because the AA size are just 1.2V, and the device is designed to expect 1.5V. The most annoying is an LED head-torch, that flashes red every minute or so (dying-battery indicator) with freshly-recharged NiMH rechargeables. It will work like that for an age, but won't stop the flashing.

OTOH, I'm thankful for the new-chemistry version of the 4LR44 battery. My Mamiya 645 Pro has always declared these batteries dead early, and was much better on the silver-process 4SR44 (which was harder to find). So I'm glad there's a new version (lithium chemistry, I think, but not rechargeable) that will drive the camera.

 

[Nitroplait]

Not really a helpful reply to the OP.

Why don't we let OP decide if it is helpful or not? I wasn't speaking to you after all.

I have used rechargeables for the last 10 years. Eneloop initially and more recently supplemended with IKEA Ladda (same specs and made at the same factory in Japan).
They work in my MD-2, MD-4, MD-E, MD-11, MD-12, in my Olympus Winder-2 as well as in my F801s, F90x, the battery grib of my F80D, my SB-E, SB-15, SB-26, SB-28, SB-700 and SB-5000.

In fact, the rechargeables work in every household item I own that takes AA or AAA batteries with the sole exception of a Leica Geosystems Disto 2 laser tape measurer which is only really happy with Lithium AAs.

I have yet to dispose of any of the batteries. I have two chargers, one that optimises the charging for the benefit of battery health and longevity and one that charges in 1.5 hour for convenience.

 

[Chan Tran]

Why don't we let OP decide if it is helpful or not? I wasn't speaking to you after all.

I have used rechargeables for the last 10 years. Eneloop initially and more recently supplemended with IKEA Ladda (same specs and made at the same factory in Japan).
They work in my MD-2, MD-4, MD-E, MD-11, MD-12, in my Olympus Winder-2 as well as in my F801s, F90x, the battery grib of my F80D, my SB-E, SB-15, SB-26, SB-28, SB-700 and SB-5000.

In fact, the rechargeables work in every household item I own that takes AA or AAA batteries with the sole exception of a Leica Geosystems Disto 2 laser tape measurer which is only really happy with Lithium AAs.

I have yet to dispose of any of the batteries. I have two chargers, one that optimises the charging for the benefit of battery health and longevity and one that charges in 1.5 hour for convenience.

Rechargeables work very poorly in my Nikon F5 (although they work fine in the MD-12 and also the F4). The F5 is designed to indicate a low battery at around 10V or so and the 8 NiMH AA voltage get down to 10V quite quickly way before they are exhausted.

 

[Fluidphoto]

I've had an MD-12 for 30+ years and the only issue that I've ever had is you have to use certain battery types or the carrier doesn't get a good connection. Some batteries have a dimple in the bottom and some don't. Avoid the dimples, they change the contact pressure. My F4s was especially affected by this.

 

[Tomwlkr]

LOL… had a similar battery “problem “ with a MD-11 recently. Then I figured out that the batteries I was trying were who-knows-how-old. Eventually found a set that worked thanks to a battery tester. Buying fresh batteries seems a better option than assuming brand sensitivity, although it’s clear why you’d make that assumption. Another consideration is that the battery cassette on my drive is sensitive to how tight the screw is tightened. Just a bit too loose and no-go. Tightened a bit more and go.

The Duracells were brand new bought that day, after I put the batteries that were 6 months old in it, it worked, then put the Duracells in the MD4 and it worked but very slowly, put them in a SB15 and it flashed once and no more, put them in 2 SB16's and wouldnt even power up. Think I got a bad batch of NEW batteries

 

[rulnacco]

The Duracells were brand new bought that day, after I put the batteries that were 6 months old in it, it worked, then put the Duracells in the MD4 and it worked but very slowly, put them in a SB15 and it flashed once and no more, put them in 2 SB16's and wouldnt even power up. Think I got a bad batch of NEW batteries

If you shoot a lot with AA-powered things--flashes, motor drives, etc.--it's not a bad investment to go to Harbor Freight or Home Depot or some place, and get a digital multimeter (DMM). I always keep one lying around the house/studio, as you can quickly check individual batteries and see their remaining voltage. (I always take batteries out of things if they may not be used for a while, and put them in a plastic bag inside the camera bag. Checking voltages allows me to do that, and match up batteries with similar remaining voltages--and know just when to discard a battery.) They're also great for checking fuses, diagnosing shorts or circuit breaks, etc. And you can get one that works well enough for not a whole lot over 10 bucks.

Yeah, it's an extra expense--but it's cheap enough, and saves a lot of irritation. And if you do have one bad battery in a set of 4 or 8 or whatever, it saves you money by telling you which are good, and which one(s) is(are) bad.

 

[Chan Tran]

If you shoot a lot with AA-powered things--flashes, motor drives, etc.--it's not a bad investment to go to Harbor Freight or Home Depot or some place, and get a digital multimeter (DMM). I always keep one lying around the house/studio, as you can quickly check individual batteries and see their remaining voltage. (I always take batteries out of things if they may not be used for a while, and put them in a plastic bag inside the camera bag. Checking voltages allows me to do that, and match up batteries with similar remaining voltages--and know just when to discard a battery.) They're also great for checking fuses, diagnosing shorts or circuit breaks, etc. And you can get one that works well enough for not a whole lot over 10 bucks.

Yeah, it's an extra expense--but it's cheap enough, and saves a lot of irritation. And if you do have one bad battery in a set of 4 or 8 or whatever, it saves you money by telling you which are good, and which one(s) is(are) bad.

I have a number of the Habor Freight DMM. Some were free some I bought cheap but at the moment I don't have any. It seems that I can't use them for very long.

 

[Tomwlkr]

Yes, rechargeables are working in most household appliances, Nitroplait, but not in all. ("In fact, the rechargeables work in every household item I own". Your experience makes it not a fact.)

Had some problems yrs ago with rechargable batteries. My Digital camera uses a rechargeable battery pack, All my 35 mm cameras use the button cells. Im just getting back into film photography, the few items I have that use AA batteries and the frequency I use them doesnt justify buying rechargeables

 

[BrianShaw]

I've had an MD-12 for 30+ years and the only issue that I've ever had is you have to use certain battery types or the carrier doesn't get a good connection. Some batteries have a dimple in the bottom and some don't. Avoid the dimples, they change the contact pressure. My F4s was especially affected by this.

Very interesting observation! It seems well worth paying attention to this aspect of the battery design.

 

[Dustin McAmera]

In my house, I keep disposable batteries for just two or three things; that head-lamp I was complaining about (a bad design - the lamp is less than a year old so should be able to use modern batteries) and old cameras. Otherwise (mainly bike lamps) I use NiMH for everything.

I have a couple of multi-meters. I also have my dad's; a real one with a needle display, in a little leather box. Sadly, that wants two different batteries, both of them obsolete.

 

[Chan Tran]

Eek! Stay off my side, please. The environmentalists are the ones who understand the science, in my experience. I only meant to point out that rechargeables may not always be compatible. In my house, I keep disposable batteries for just two or three things; that head-lamp I was complaining about (a bad design - the lamp is less than a year old so should be able to use modern batteries) and old cameras. Otherwise (mainly bike lamps) I use NiMH for everything.

I have a couple of multi-meters. I also have my dad's; a real one with a needle display, in a little leather box. Sadly, that wants two different batteries, both of them obsolete.

Wanna sell that meter with the needle? Your head lamp does need the battery of somewhat higher voltage than the NiMH can deliver. You must have a certain voltage for the LED to start conduct so if the voltage is right around this border it would flash on and off. Above this voltage it would lit brightly but just below it quit.

 

[Dustin McAmera]

I couldn't sell my dad's meter; it would be like selling his sword. I went and had a look at it. It was made by Taylor Electrical Instruments of Slough. I see on the web that it was available in 1959, and still in '63. The case is bakelite. The instruction book gives both a general layout and a circuit diagram, with a list of the resistors you might one day need to replace. I now see that I only need those batteries to measure ohms; it should work for voltage and current. It registers a voltage from a battery; can't say if it's correct.

 

[Chan Tran]

I couldn't sell my dad's meter; it would be like selling his sword. I went and had a look at it. It was made by Taylor Electrical Instruments of Slough. I see on the web that it was available in 1959, and still in '63. The case is bakelite. The instruction book gives both a general layout and a circuit diagram, with a list of the resistors you might one day need to replace. I now see that I only need those batteries to measure ohms; it should work for voltage and current. It registers a voltage from a battery; can't say if it's correct.

I understand.

 

[jedathome]

I have two MD12.

One was okay, the other had oxidation at the contacts.

The advice given to me was to gently scrape the contacts and this cured the problem.
I use a table knife to do this.

It does sometimes reoccur so therefore, repeat the above.

I hope this helps.

 

[rulnacco]

I have a number of the Habor Freight DMM. Some were free some I bought cheap but at the moment I don't have any. It seems that I can't use them for very long.

Yeah, probably a case of you get what you paid for. The gold standard in DMMs are the Fluke brands, but even on eBay they're way too expensive for an amateur like me. I ended up, after doing some research, getting a Kaiweets HT118A off Amazon as a good compromise of price, build, features, and apparent (according to reviews) accuracy and consistency. It's doing well so far, although I haven't stressed it in any way.

 

[rulnacco]

The advice given to me was to gently scrape the contacts and this cured the problem.
I use a table knife to do this.

That'll work, temporarily. Unfortunately, if you don't get all the corrosion, it'll probably spread again. The trouble with those contacts is they're way down in there and hard to get at easily.

You *might* try a little DeOxit sprayed carefully up in there. (Do hold the MD-12 so it will drain out as soon as you spray it in; the stuff is for cleaning electrical contacts, but I really would rather not get it down inside the mechanical bits or going places I wasn't really trying to spray.) Another handy piece of kit is a little fiberglass bristle scratch brush pen for cleaning contacts. It can be a bit harsh, but for those particularl contacts you don't really need to be super delicate with them, and that'll clean them pretty thoroughly.

 

[titrisol]

I've had an MD-12 for 30+ years and the only issue that I've ever had is you have to use certain battery types or the carrier doesn't get a good connection. Some batteries have a dimple in the bottom and some don't. Avoid the dimples, they change the contact pressure. My F4s was especially affected by this.

This is an issue in some of those old battery holders, newer batteries have more tolerance in size than before and sometimes the contact isn;t good enough. make sure the springs are pushed well with the batteries to ensure that they are touching thiose pins in the back. Check that the screw is pushing the battery holder all the way.
Also the dimples in the - side shouldnt be deep.
Also clean the contact points for tiny corrosion, I like to use rubber erasers (at the end of pencil) to reach down there

Other than that all these pieces of equipment are 30-40yrs old and might just fail
PS I took mine out (I haven t used it in 10+yrs), put batteries on, and painted the batteries with a pencil thorugh the holes and checked that all the pins were contacting (I can see the marks) It worked right away.
PS2 Lots of good info and even a manual: https://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/md12/index.htm