MD-11's & 12's...

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

I recently purchased a MD-12 on ebay to pair with my Nikon FM. I just received it this afternoon and it doesn't operate. The seller was most kind and refunded me the entire purchase amount including shipping, and said that I could keep the drive and start a career in camera repair.

I took the top cover off to see if there were any corroded battery contacts, but didn't go any further than that. I did not want to remove the wires that were on top of the chip board, and I didn't want to remove the chip board to go any lower to check the battery contacts.

Are these things expensive to repair, and is it worth trying to save? It in great cosmetic condition. How reliable are these things today? I realize that they are older pieces of equipment, but are the ones that work still fairly trustworthy?

BrianShaw · Oct 23, 2011

So what doesn't work about it? You mean, no red light when switched on and no "zip" when the button is pushed? Have you mounted it to the camera yet?

I recently went through the experience of mating a MD11 to a FE. It took a LOT longer than I thought because, well... they seem fickle.

One thing to check is to put fresh batteries in it, turn it on, and place a quarter over the electrical contacts. That should cycle the drive (if it is going to work at all) and prepare it for mounting on the camera.

I can't remember the mounting "secret" though - the camera either has to be cocked, or not.

I terms of repiar, I don't know. But they seem to be quite affordable that if you can't get that one going it might be just as well to buy another.

Once I got mine going it has functioned 100% reliably.

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

I put brand new batteries in it, turned it on and nothing. No light, no click, no turn, no nothing. I mounted it to the camera and no light, no click, no turn, no nothing. I moved the switch, changed it from continuous to single, checked battery placement, loosened the battery screw, tightened the battery screw, pressed the shutter, removed it from the camera, banged it a bit... Nothing.

BrianShaw · Oct 23, 2011

Bummer. Sounds d-e-a-d.

Just for chuckles, take it off hte camera, put batteries in, switch on, and pit a quarter across the 4 contacts. If nothing then I'd suspect it is either getting no power (bad contacts or switch) or the electronics are somehow shot.

BrianShaw · Oct 23, 2011

Oh, and not to be rude or anything... but you are sure the batteries are loaded correctly?

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

Ok I did the quarter thing. It moved. If I 'bounced' the quarter up and down on the contacts I can make the drive turn. So its not dead, its operator error.

I'm googling a manual now.

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

OOOOOHHHHH SNAP! It works. I dont know what I was doing wrong earlier, but it works now. Now I'm going to go send the guy his money back.

BrianShaw · Oct 23, 2011

I think (not sure though) that the MD 11/12 has a quirk that it can get out of synch. But the quarter trick seems to re-synch them. I got my MD-11 for $10 because the seller thought it was dead. So did I until someone told me this trick. Good luck, I hope it works out for you!

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

Yeah It seems temperamental.

BrianShaw · Oct 23, 2011

Also, if I recall... there's a switch on the FM that needs to be turned when using the motor. My FE is electrically swithced so this is from memory -- the switch on the FM is surrounding the shutter release. Check it out because my memory has been known to be faulty at times.

BrianShaw · Oct 23, 2011

ChristopherCoy said:
Yeah It seems temperamental.

Ya, mine was a real PIA to get set up, but once it was it has operated flawlessly.

fstop · Oct 23, 2011

Go to Butkus and dl the manuals, is you mount this on a #2XXXXX series FM and have the ring around the shutter release turned the wrong way it will give you grief.

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

BrianShaw said:
Also, if I recall... there's a switch on the FM that needs to be turned when using the motor. My FE is electrically swithced so this is from memory -- the switch on the FM is surrounding the shutter release. Check it out because my memory has been known to be faulty at times.

Yes, on the original 2xxxxx serial numbers you have to switch the dial to match the black and red lines.

ChristopherCoy · Oct 23, 2011

Thanks y'all. I figured out what I was doing wrong.... all three times.

There are a lot of things that you have to have in the right place, and if any of them are out of place, it wont work properly.

I didn't realize that I needed to leave the advancing lever pushed in, while the meter worked off the drive. I figured I needed the lever out to run the meter, but after reading the manual that wasn't correct.

It seems that I have a perfectly good, and properly working MD12 now.

MD-11's & 12's...

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