Yes - overally dense negatives wont' do a thing but I guess everyone understands that "dense" in this context means dense = density of the highlights.
If you look at OP he is saying he feels he needs more density than just overdeveloping - that shouldnt be the case with salt printing from my experience.
I think is partly correct. It depends on the scene; ifyour shadows are like abyss, this works. If your shadows aren't really in deep shadow / non-reflective, you also increase the shadow density.
I mean if you print a step wedge - blocking the wedge up is very hard in salt printing - you just end up making the image softer and softer rather than blocking the image up. It could just be a case of OP overexposing the image rather than the negative (because i've done that....)
This is new information. How does it work?
If you coat straight onto the paper more the silver sinks into the paper creating a softer image than if you use a size and have the silver sit on top of the paper. The type of size and dilution can help here to control contrast and dmax from my experience - I lost all my tests but that was my experience
I want my negatives to be long in exposure, more than being just contrasty. Of course one can underexpose and overexpose to get more DR but then you end up with really contrasty stuff without any details in shadows..