Max black question

[ronlamarsh]

I have read many procedures for this but......with VC papers which filter? I recently retested my paper (Adox Vario G) with #3 filter and no filter. After getting Max blk times for both I used that tho make prints of my 21 step wedge. Now here is the question: w/o a filter the step wedge prints a perfect scale i.e every 2 steps = 1 zone change up to zone 8 with the #3 filter this is compressed slightly and I loose about 2 steps, should I develope my negatives for printing without the filter and use the filters to adjust print contrast or go with the #3 filter exposure?

 

[Ole]

I've given up the "max black" method, I use too many strange papers with very non-linear density for it to work for me.

Whether you develop for G2 or G3 is up to you, although grain tends to be finer if you develop for G3. Since I mostly use larger films (120 and up, and up, and up) I develop a lot more. Most people seeing my negatives would believe I develop for G1 or 0!

 

[BBarlow690]

I use grade 2 for large format, grade 3 for 35mm because of the grain issue Ole describes.

Max black is usable for finding a proper proofing time, so that you can see what the negative contains, and maybe to get you in the ballpark, but not for much else. When you really make a print, there's so much more going on to try to make it your best that max black ceases to have any meaningful use, in my book.

Good luck!

 

[ronlamarsh]

max blk

thanks for the responses. Just to clarify a little though: I am only using Max Blk for film calibration purposes i.e. gettting proper speed and dev times so that my negative more closely matches the paper range. I have had quite a few pprinting problems from lack of contrast in the neg which then requires higher contrast filters in the printing stage with longer times etc.

 

[BBarlow690]

Oh. That's a different problem. If your negs are flat you're probabaly not developing for long enough for the paper you're using, and development time has to do with whites, not blacks.

Egad, another plug: take a look at the Film Test Kit at www.circleofthesunproductions.com. It has materials and instructions for getting proper film speed, max black for proofs, and proper development time for your equipment and materials. A day or so spent on these tests (with most of the time waiting for negs to dry) will have you shipshape.

All best,

Bruce

 

[Claire Senft]

I, myself, would recommend that you expose and devlop for the #3 filter. If you need to change filters the beginning exposure for the change from the #3 filter to the #x filter will be much less than the change from no filter to #x filter.

For many paper and filter sets going from a #3 to a #2 or a #4 will require extremely little change if any at all.

 

[ronlamarsh]

MAX BLK

Thanks again guys; I am going with extending my devlopement times as the paper I am using responds better to contrastier negative and I have found having to start printing with a #4 filter seriously reduces my wiggle room. I also disovered an interesting thing: I have 2 enlargers one a 4x5 with the aristo V54 cold lite and a 5X7 diffusion with a tungsten source(300w) the cold lite prints about one stop more contrasty than the tungsten. Anyway thanks Again

 

[djklmnop]

Maximum black has to do with calibrating the film's toe to the paper's toe at a fixed grade. Normally if the paper characteristic is change, you will have to retest to accomodate. Most people don't go beyond that mere fact because what we normally get through calibration of film is flexible enough and certainly much more reliable as is than not doing any testing to begin with. Generally for a rule of thumb, you will want to use grade 2.5-3 for diffusion, and 2 for condenser. As you get better you will understand your enlarger's characteristic and determine which grade prints best for your EI testing.