Then I take them out every once in a while, letting the impression of it sort of soak in.
I cannot take the negative to the darkroom and print it and do well until the impression has sunk in, making sure I understand my 'image'.
Thomas, (I did not read any other replies so this or variations of it may already have been mentioned). But, if i'm going to contemplate an image for a long time, I would rather do it with an enlarged proof.
Do you at least make contact sheets; I make contact sheets soon after development? I look at my contact sheets to get a feel for any images that I think I may want to carry to the end. I don't fuss to much for the actual making of the proof as I did that during my "EI" and "N" dev testing and it wasn't that much fussing anyway, just some time well spent that pays off.
I don't know if you have standardized with the zone system or other system, but I know the enlarger height (for 4x5, 5x7, & 8x10 proof prints), f/stop, and exposure time I use to reach maximum black of the paper through a developed but unexposed negative, zone 0 (fb+f). I use this time to expose any negative very quickly for an enlarged proof.
I don't concern myself with any other aspect of the print as I already know it will receive further refinement. But, it also serves to let you envision those manipulations for as long as you want before making a fine print. It only serves as an initial insight to that image and it is very quick and gives me a print of my work to look at when just relaxing. And when you are ready to attempt the fine print, proceed with your normal methods. Test strip for the best highlight detail, contrast choice, etc.....
I simply place the negative in the enlarger, set the height for the size proof print I want, focus, set the timer to expose for the minimum time for maximum black (MTMB) of the paper at that enlarger height, and develop.
Exposing your paper for the MTMB, when you have standardized your EI and Normal dev time, will tell you instantly the trouble spots in the negative, or how little trouble it will be. So, keeping the fog level a constant in your developing enables you to poof any negative very quickly by printing to satisfy zone "0". Satisfying zone 0 at N+1 or N-1 will need different MTMB exposure times because their fog levels will be different.
You can use the enlarged proof print to play around with cropping, envision the tone manipulations that you will want to make for the fine print, stick it in a box and put it away to examine it later when you are ready to print.
Seems complicated when trying to describe, but it's really not.
Regards,
Chuck