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Mat Board Cutting

Edit: I totally misunderstood the question. But perhaps the guide is reading 10 cm border and you are getting a 12 or 8 cm border?
To troubleshoot, measure with a ruler the distance from where the blade is cutting and where the adjustable guide edge is located. Then compare with the scale reading and figure out what is wrong. It should be accurate within a mm or so.

Jon

Hi, it should cut straight. Try to troubleshoot your technique. Is it happening at the start or end of the cut? Does pushing the blade in or starting cause a sideways motion? If so, hold the head tightly against the rail when starting. Does the pressure change at the end of the cut so it drifts? etc.

Jon
 
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Two questions? what ply mat board are you cutting? How much pressure are you putting on the guide bar when cutting? Too thick a board (8 ply) and/or too much pressure on the guide bar may be your problem. I am assuming a new/sharp blade.
 
klop said:
Just got into cutting my own mat boards, got a Logan 450 used. When cutting mats for 11x14 frame, it cuts untrue by between 1 and 2 centimeters. Is this normal?:confused:
Click to expand...

get a fresh blade for every mat.they cost less than the mat board.
 
klop said:
Just got into cutting my own mat boards, got a Logan 450 used. When cutting mats for 11x14 frame, it cuts untrue by between 1 and 2 centimeters. Is this normal?:confused:
Click to expand...


You mean MILLIMETERS?

I have a Logan 450 as well. The cut it makes is about 1 millimeter away from the leading edge of the guide. If this is what you are talking about, yes, it is normal. I cannot imagine how it can be off by 1 to 2 CENTIMETERS.
 
They make a nice video showing how to use their mat cutters. Might be able to be found and viewed with the help of google.
 
Very Very Sorry

I'm very sorry, I should have indeed typed millimeters.:confused: I think I am putting even downward pressure on the cutter but maybe its to much ? I tested it by taking a scrap piece of mat and cutting a 4 inch wide by 16 inch long strip and then flipping it over and putting it back under the cutter bar and it is sticking out further on far end and slightly under the bar on end with black measuring tape. I am standing and cutting from the black tape end.
 
Ok, the blade is drifting sideways, either at the start or finish. You need to keep even pressure sideways against the bar. Sometimes, when plunging the blade into the board, the head will move.

Jon
 
I can tell you how I do it.

First, I do not use the right angle guide and I do not rely on measurement scale on the cutter. I draw everything on the mat board and I line that up against the cutting guide.

Second, I apply even pressure on the cutter guide and move the pressure along where the blade is actually cutting. If I apply too much pressure, it can dent the board so this is really by feel and touch. I think your problem may be that mat board is moving as you cut.

This mat cutter really is not a professional grade so some finess by users are necessary.

It can give you a great result once you master it.
 
Every mat you prepare must be cut with a brand new blade. Keep a big supply at hand.
The number of ply of a mat also dictates the quality of the cut; burrs are common, especially with 8 to 9ply cotton rag. Universally even and firm pressure must be applied, but not excessive pressure. I have moved along since the laborious days when I cut 5 to 8ply mats with a #23 scalpel.
 
I stand beside the cutter not at the end, and it's easy to keep even pressure on the setup. I pencil lines on the back of the board so I know things are where they are supposed to be. I cut about 2mm beyond the lines as the blade is angled and a tiny overcut is less visible than undercutting and getting burr.
 
Thanks everyone for your input, I kept in mind the advice and I tried it again yesterday with a new blade, carpenters square and left off the adjustable rear stop and I did a better job this time... Not perfect but an improvement. Guess it's gonna take me figuring out my own technique. The videos on the net make it look very easy..... Oh well.....
 
If you use too thick a blade it has trouble plunging, too thin and it flexes too much. There's a distinct trick to how you roll your wrist as you
plunge the cutter in, prior to pulling it, to avoid "hooks". My fingers are getting arthritic. When I retire, I'm going to treat myself to an Esterly
Speedmat. I bought the best linear one available several decades back, and now it too is almost worn out. But there are various pro picture
framer guilds and websites that teach you how to do these things correctly, as well as tutorials from the gear mfgs themselves. Some types
of matboard cut much easier than others, and you have to change the depth setting not only according to the ply, but often the brand of
board. Unfortunately, true rag museum board can vary somewhat in actual thickness from one side of the sheet to the other.
 
Didn't see where anyone has queried what you’re cutting on? I have a cheapo self healing mat to protect the bench (kitchen) and on top of that I put a piece of matt board, then the matt I'm cutting. The extra matt board lets the cutter blade dig into something and flow along. Using just the self healing mat doesn't work as it's too tough. My 'cutting' matt gets used until it falls apart. I don't change blades that often, although I usually do change them before they start tearing the matt board rather than cutting it!

I use a Logan Adapt-a-rule (which is basically a ruler with channel for the matt cutter to run along) and can do mostly 'perfect' cuts. I have learnt to do the following (for my setup), start the cutter dead on the 'start line' and hold it in place with my thumb while I push the blade in. This stops it moving forward a mm. At the other end of the cut, I go past my marked line by 1mm otherwise it won't cut right to the corner I want. I've worked out this is how I have to do it by trial and error (i.e. after finishing the cuts and the cut-out doesn't drop out!). Something else I do which I think finishes the bevel 'off' is run a solid object (I use the back of a teaspoon) around the front edge of the bevel cut. I go right into the corners and close any tiny overcut I have managed to create which effectively hides it.
 
How critical is the measurement to the finished product? If you are consistently out the 1 to 2 mm, then either live with it if the result is good, or compensate for it in your setup. In other words consistency trumps accuracy if the result is good.

But, do change blades as suggested and do use backing under your mat.

A bone folder is an inexpensive alternative to using a teaspoon. It allows you to get right into the corners. Any craft store should carry it. It is good for smoothing over the face of the corners with ease and accuracy.

If your cut doesn't result in the cut-off falling out, use an Exacto knife to finish the cut; just remember that it is a compound angle that needs to be cut. I know someone who stopped her cuts short on purpose and finished them with an Exacto knife. I tried it, but I find over cutting by 1mm and smoothing the face with the bone tool produces a nice corner with less effort.
 
I keep leftover strips of museum board to cut into, behind the mat. You always have to have something clean. But one important fact that
hasn't been mentioned yet is that you have to establish a reference edge to begin with. Never ever assume that the sheets of board are truly
square from the manufacturer. You need to check every time with a trusted square. Mark that corner as your reference when you trim the
board down, and square your other sides in relation to that. Otherwise, it's almost impossible to cut all your window mat corners correctly,
unless you're trying to eyeball the entire process, without production stops, which is really a Stone Age headache.
 

Yes, this is exactly what I was doing..... I assumed the mat was perfectly square.....[emoji5]
 
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