Mamiya RZ67 Pro1 issues

[RJSPhoto]

Hi everyone,

My very first post!

TL;DR - Is it possible to test and actually see if the mirror is locking back in place while in normal exposure mode? Polaroids are way overexposed and I'm wondering if the mirror stays up until I re-cock the shutter like in Multiple exposure mode.

I recently took a gamble and bought a gorgeous Mamiya RZ67 on eBay with several backs, lenses and accessories. I've used a hassleblad back in school and loved it, but otherwise my experience with medium format is a bit limited.
The seller was not a photographer and did not test it with film in, but I took it on his word that it worked when I asked about mechanical sounds, movements etc. Upon receiving it, everything seemed really solid, actions were smooth, it sounded right. It came with a polaroid film back so I loaded up some 669 film and setup my first self-portrait with my new camera. My first shot was way overexposed, but the film was kind of old so I shrugged it off and went to the next frame. Same issue. I stop my aperture way down and re-cock the shutter right away and this time there's some detail but it's still way overexposed. I'm starting to wonder if there's a mechanical issue with the mirror flipping back down when I push the shutter button. Anyone have this issue? Am I just missing something really obvious?

Here's a pic of the last setting used. Thank you so much!
http://imgur.com/a/nKLYd

 

[John Koehrer]

The RB's mirror stays up until the camera's recocked and I think the RZ does too unless you have the motor on it.

 

[M Carter]

I have an RB, not an RZ - wondering if anything's going on along the lines of mirror lockup? On the RB, you set the lens for MLU, trip the mirror, and then trip the lens with another cable release attached to the lens itself. The mirror stays open until you advance the film when using MLU.

I did have some issues with extreme image blur and realized the shutter was sticking, so the film was being exposed until I advanced which resets the mirror. Again, don't know how this might relate to the RZ, but shutters get sticky and for a self portrait, that's a lot of extra lens-open time.

You should be able to test the shutter by setting it to, say, 1/4 and shine a flashlight in the lens. Use whatever mode lets you trigger the camera without film, and watch for the leaf shutter when you trigger the camera.

 

[RJSPhoto]

The RB's mirror stays up until the camera's recocked and I think the RZ does too unless you have the motor on it.

The RZ takes a 6v battery, are you saying that the shutter will not close and leave my film exposed until I recock the shutter? That doesn't sound right...

 

[RJSPhoto]

I have an RB, not an RZ - wondering if anything's going on along the lines of mirror lockup? On the RB, you set the lens for MLU, trip the mirror, and then trip the lens with another cable release attached to the lens itself. The mirror stays open until you advance the film when using MLU.

I did have some issues with extreme image blur and realized the shutter was sticking, so the film was being exposed until I advanced which resets the mirror. Again, don't know how this might relate to the RZ, but shutters get sticky and for a self portrait, that's a lot of extra lens-open time.

You should be able to test the shutter by setting it to, say, 1/4 and shine a flashlight in the lens. Use whatever mode lets you trigger the camera without film, and watch for the leaf shutter when you trigger the camera.

I can see the aperture locking down, but then the mirror doesn't flip back up until I recock the shutter. this is in M or Multiple exposure mode.

 

[film_man]

The mirror is irrelevant. The shutter is in the lens. Have a look down the front of the camera. Set a slow shutter speed, say 1s. Fire the camera while looking down the front. You should see the shutter blades open and after a second they should be closed. Try different settings, faster, slower, the shutter blades should open and fully close in the end. They will reopen when you wind on the camera (which also resets the mirror). Found this in youtoobe: (fast forward to 18 seconds and watch the shutter blades). If that all happens ok on yours then you're good.

Looking at the photo you posted it looks like the polaroid back rollers are messing up the print, the area around the image should be black. You probably either have a light leak in the back (look at the corners) or the rollers are bent/gummed up and put so much pressure on the print as you pull it out the chemicals just spill all over the place inside the paper.

If I'm right the first RZ model uses the typical foam light seals, they're probably gone and need replacing.

 

[RJSPhoto]

The mirror is irrelevant. The shutter is in the lens. Have a look down the front of the camera. Set a slow shutter speed, say 1s. Fire the camera while looking down the front. You should see the shutter blades open and after a second they should be closed. Try different settings, faster, slower, the shutter blades should open and fully close in the end. They will reopen when you wind on the camera (which also resets the mirror).

Looking at the photo you posted it looks like the polaroid back rollers are messing up the print, the area around the image should be black. You probably either have a light leak in the back (look at the corners) or the rollers are bent/gummed up and put so much pressure on the print as you pull it out the chemicals just spill all over the place inside the paper.

I just tried a different lens, a 180mm Sekor Z vs a plain Sekor which looks much older with more markings - and the leaf shutter opens and closes. I'm wondering if the plain Sekor lenses are incompatible, maybe for the RB?

 

[RJSPhoto]

If I'm right the first RZ model uses the typical foam light seals, they're probably gone and need replacing.

Is there a place that can do this for me, or will I need to do it myself? Any resources for DIY?

 

[MattKing]

I can see the aperture locking down, but then the mirror doesn't flip back up until I recock the shutter. this is in M or Multiple exposure mode.

Welcome to APUG.
By "re-cock the shutter" I assume you mean operating the advance lever on the side of the camera.
The RZ67 (along with the RB67) does not have an instant return mirror. You do have to operate that lever in order to have the mirror return to the viewing position.
You can use the RB lenses on the RZ, but you need to use the shutter speed setting on the lens, rather than the one on the body. The manual for the camera describes how.

 

[iakustov]

I guess the original problem may well be due to the incorrect setting on the shutter speed dial - when using RB lenses you have to set "RB" on that dial.

 

[RJSPhoto]

I guess the original problem may well be due to the incorrect setting on the shutter speed dial - when using RB lenses you have to set "RB" on that dial.

I know what you're talking about, but that's a setting or button on the ProII model, this is the Pro 1, or "Professional" model. I think what I've got going on here is a handful of older, mechanical lenses with a newer electronic body. Will update soon, but thanks for your input!

 

[michaelfoto]

Have you checked the Time/Normal button on the side of the lens? You should see the green N sign. If it is on T, the shutter stays open until you advance to next frame.
Michael.

 

[RJSPhoto]

Have you checked the Time/Normal button on the side of the lens? You should see the green N sign. If it is on T, the shutter stays open until you advance to next frame.
Michael.

That appears to be the issue, also coupled with the fact that these older lenses don't say "T" they say "M" and "N" so I was just very confused all around.

Looks like it's working fine now, I think the polaroid film I have is older and less cared for
than I thought so I'm going to pick up a nice new roll of 120mm and test for light leaks. Thanks for all of your input, everybody!

 

[mweintraub]

I know what you're talking about, but that's a setting or button on the ProII model, this is the Pro 1, or "Professional" model. I think what I've got going on here is a handful of older, mechanical lenses with a newer electronic body. Will update soon, but thanks for your input!

I just sold my Pro I due to an upgrade to the II. You're right about the RB setting. If I remember correctly, the shutter speed dial on the body becomes irrelevant when using an RB lens, except it can't be in the Red Dot setting.

Have you tried newer instant film?

Edit: ah, I see your last reply. I guess I shouldn't sit on a comment for a long time before submitting.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Hi everyone,

My very first post!

TL;DR - Is it possible to test and actually see if the mirror is locking back in place while in normal exposure mode? Polaroids are way overexposed and I'm wondering if the mirror stays up until I re-cock the shutter like in Multiple exposure mode.

I think there are 2 modes. The mode where the mirror is locked up and the normal mode where you see an image in your view finder then black out when you fire the shutter. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the normal mode, the exposure starts when the mirror flips up and the view black out then the exposure ends when the the shutter closes. Where as the mirror up mode, the exposure doesn't start until the mirror is locked up and the camera shutter opens and closes as shown on the video. I don't use the mirror up mode too often. I only use the mirror up mode for exposures longer than 1/8 of a second because mirror shakes the camera when it goes up during exposure.