mamiya rb67 pro s

[shaggy]

I'm looking at purchasing one if these brutes. I was wondering if there is any common problems with these older cameras. Mainly the light baffle. Is there away to check this other than running film through it? I'm a little concerned because I'm buying it from a pawn shop. They said it was pawned by a pro studio, but you never know. I'm trying to make an arrangment to run a few rolls of film through it.

This is the setup:
mamiya rb 67 w/ waist level focusing screen
90 mm ~3.8 seko-mamiya lens -clean glass - ? shutter speeds
127 mm ~ 3.8 seko-mamiya lens - clean glass -? shutter speeds
3 - 120 backs

They're asking $600.00 but I think they will bend a bit. Does this price seem fair?

Thanks
shaggy

 

[gnashings]

These cameras are known to be bullet proof, and they are harder to break than many MF SLR's through user negligence. Make sure the bellows are light tight. Make sure the shutters fire accurately (well, reasonably so).

now, as to the price. There are two ways of looking at it. Is $600 a good price? Onthe one hand, wow, sure, its a lot of top-level gear to get for $600. Depending on the shape its in, I would say its not at all unreasonable. Theother way of looking at it is "can I get it cheaper?". The answer is, probably yes. I have seen systems with one lens, two backs and WLF go for $300 +/- on eBay. Add another lens, and you can see what I mean.
But you have to ask yourself - is it worth it to you? Is the camera and gear in above average shape? If so, the ability to handle it before you buy, may be worth the little bit of premium - especially when you claculate the shipping you won't have to pay, and perhaps a little bargaining.
Perhaps someone in your area here on APUG could have a look at it for you to make sure its all OK?

 

[MenacingTourist]

I wouldn't have a 90 and a 127 in the same kit. They seem much too close to each other. Also look to see if the lenses are the "C" type since this is the better lens.

Compare the pawn shop kit with what KEH.com has to offer. I bought my RB from them and I've been very happy. A little over a year ago mine was $450 for the RB pro S with a 90mm C lens and one back. Prices are cheaper now and if I were to do it again I would get a 150mm or 180mm lens instead of the 90mm. But that's just me

Good luck,

Alan.

 

[Paul Sorensen]

I think that the going rate should be maybe $300 to $350 for either lens with the body and one back. Depending on condition the backs will be $50 - $100 from eBay, bargain condition backs at KEH are running $69. I got a very nice 180mm C lens on eBay for a little under $100 with shipping.

Having three backs might be nice, or you might want to sell the spares. I agree that having both 90mm and 127mm lenses is kind of silly, so you will likely sell one of those. Since they are normal lenses, their values aren't too high, perhaps $75 to $100 on eBay. I would think that if they would come down to $500 or even less and you really want all this stuff or don't mind selling the extra stuff off, you are doing okay. I don't think it is a horrible deal at $600 if it is in great condition, but there is always that thing about buying from a pawn shop and knowing you are totally on your own with it.

As for the testing, I guess that you will have to run film through it. Foam seals are fairly easy to replace, but the problem with RBs is that with the back and all, they have tons of seals to replace and it becomes a pain. There is a guy on eBay selling the materials and instructions cheap, someone here will know who I am talking about.

I absolutely love mine. I am very glad that I took the leap a couple of months ago.

Paul.

 

[shaggy]

Thanks for the info. I'll take a look at KEH. I found a manual (PDF) on line that gave me a little more insight. I'll take a more thorough look at it tommorow.

Thanks again

Shaggy.

 

[paul ron]

$600 for waht you are getting is a good price. If you did get it cheaper, there will be a clear reason it is so cheap adn I'd be woried. Many people look for that "bargain" and then wind up sending me their cameras to be repaired anoly to find they are junkers on their last leg.

Check the foam seals if they are gummy adn expect to replace them and maybe do a CLA on trhe lenses. These cameras need care but will last forever with proper maintenance. Mamiya has built in enougj adjustment room in them to last 100 years. It's rare I see any cameras beyond repair unless they have been extreamly heavily used or abused. Generally a pro's camera was probably maintained because he made a living with it. A hobbiest camera may have sat in the basement for years and is gummed up and maybe inoperable, posably abused due to forcing it at some point and since this person wouldn't normally have it checked out, it needs repairs.

If you need more info, e-mail me and I can assist you with whatever questions you have.

 

[Kevin Roach]

even if you have to pay 600 dollars from keh for the same set up, remember that keh will refund if there are any problems. Will this pawn shop stand behind their camera? or an ebay seller?

 

[Paul Sorensen]

$600 for waht you are getting is a good price. If you did get it cheaper, there will be a clear reason it is so cheap adn I'd be woried. Many people look for that "bargain" and then wind up sending me their cameras to be repaired anoly to find they are junkers on their last leg.

Paul, I defer to your experience with RBs, but I am always nervous with pawn shop stuff. If someone can check it thorougly then perhaps, but otherwise, I just don't trust pawn shops. Perhaps that is just my own bias, but it makes me nervous. Also, the original post doesn't state condition. It might fit into the KEH bargain category in which case I would much rather buy one lens, back and body from KEH for $317. At least there you get a warranty.

 

[paul ron]

Yes, pawn shop versus KEH, I'd go for KEH only because you do have some recourse if the camera is a junker. Living in NYC, I stay way from pawn shops, it just gives me the creeps that the equipment may be stolen even though pawn shops aren't suposed to buy stuff off the street.

So depending on condition adn with someone knowing what they are looking at, check out the pawn shop very carefully before making a comittment. KEH I am very confortable with and have dealt with them many times and do recomend them highly to anyone looking for a decent price for the quality.

 

[Sandeep]

For around $600 I just put together a near mint Mamiya RZ67 system with 120 back and 180mm f4.5 lens and prism as well as waist level finder and it's fantastic! It took me a bit of patience and about 3 weeks of watching and bidding not too high. Most of the stuff was from dealers or individuals who offered and a return option. I would go with this route over a shady pawn shop any day. Also as mentioned anything from 90mm to 127mm is too similar so having two lenses in that range is no bargin. The RZ is a much nicer machine with better optics than the RB.

 

[shaggy]

I went back to the pawn shop today. I checked through the camera again. The camera is in very good condition. The bellows are crisp and flat. The light baffle appears to be seated well and the all seals look good. There is a little brass showing around the perimeter of the body (just the face at the corners), no dings or scratches. The 90mm lense is a "C" and the 127mm is not. All the glass is clean with no scratches. The film advance is jammed on one of the backs. I got them down to $575.00 and 4 days to return it. Evidently, the salesman I worked with today said the camera belong to his mother who used it for studio work. I'm going to run some film through it tonight. Is there anything I should be looking for?

Thanks
Shaggy.

 

[paul ron]

Nice to see the lenses are the older C and non-C. These shutters are DIY repairable becasue of the brass parts and adjustment features, whereas the newer shutters have plastic parts and absolutely no adjustments because they are rivited instead of screwed in, once they go there is no way to repalce parts, the entire shutter must be replaced and that is expensive. The old glass you have is quality as well. Mamyia has never put out bad glass.

When checking your camera, just take off the back to see how the shutters are firing. Sometimes these old shutters get gummed up from not being used for a long time. They tend to stick adn get sluggish. ANother problem with the old shutters is a tiny spring that slips it's post that is responsable for closing the shutter down when the mirror comes up. It's not a big deal, the spring just has to be put back in place adn the shutter gets a good washing adn relube. It slips because the shutter is gunked up.

Seals are no big deal to change yourself. Get self stick seal material from Microtools and you'll have enough to do hundreds of cameras and maybe make an income form it once you get the hang of it.

That jammed back probably only needs an adjustment to the signal arm, most common cause of back problems.

Keep us posted? Good luck!

 

[avandesande]

Does anyone know how interchangeable the lenses are on the shutters? I have seen ugly lenses on KEH and ebay for as little as 50 bucks. Might be a cheap way to get a replacement shutter.

Nice to see the lenses are the older C and non-C. These shutters are DIY repairable becasue of the brass parts and adjustment features, whereas the newer shutters have plastic parts and absolutely no adjustments because they are rivited instead of screwed in, once they go there is no way to repalce parts, the entire shutter must be replaced and that is expensive. The old glass you have is quality as well. Mamyia has never put out bad glass.

 

[paul ron]

Shutters are interchangeable as long as you match the style of the one you are replacing. What generally has to match is type of flash port x/m synch lever. Some have a screwed on port, other 2 styles are on the shutter, and one shutter has a metal tang that has to match up with the port on the barrel. That is a good source and if you deal with KEH speak to Jeannie Cox, she knows her business better than anyone there. Say hellow for me as well?