I'm thinking about picking up one of these monsters. The price on the used market for these things is very low now, and the quality of the glass very high. Looks like a win/win situation for getting into a 6x7 SLR system. What I'd like to know is, what are the differences between the Pro S and Pro SD models? I am interested more in the Mamiya than the Pentax 67 models. The leaf shutter lenses afford much more flexibility for lighting with strobes.
Mamiya RB67 Pro s vs. Pro SD
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I found this article by Karen Nakamura, a photoethnographer, brief but informative: Mamiya RB-67 Pro
Terry
Terry
Thanks. Looks like the Pro SD might have a slight edge, if only because they are newer.
Not much difference between the Pro-S and the Pro-SD. The one main difference is that the newer KL lenses will all fit the Pro-SD, but the 500mm and the 75mm shift KL will not fit the Pro-S. Otherwise, everything is interchangable between them. The Pro-SD is newer, and an older pro-S might need the foam replacing, which is an easy DIY job apart from the foam around the mirror, which is not much fun to change. The even older RB67 (no pro S or pro SD designation) does not have focus lock or double exposure prevention, and the exposure comp. scale on the side is for the older non C sekor lenses, and unless serviced is likely to have very sticky foam. Unless you want to use a 500mm KL lens or the 75 mm KL shift, I'd go for the Pro-S, they are much cheaper.
p.s. the Pro-SD backs are nicer than the Pro-S ones as they have somewhere to store the darkslide, but that also makes them bulkier.
haris
Darkslide is putted on left side on Pro-S, there is place reserved for them. So, if nothing else, place for darkslide is not reason for deciding between those two
I have Pro-S, and if have oportunity to get Pro-SD, I would rather spend money on lenses or compendium, Lee filters or else. Not that I think Pro-SD is not good, but I am happy with Pro-S and find no reason to change it.
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Since the RB is an additional camera for me I went with the Pro-S with two lenses so far, a back, and wlf.
If it's going to be your main system then you might want to spend the extra and get a newer, more advanced system. If it was my only system I would want the newer lenses with improved barrels, shutters and coatings.
If I find out I like the RB system I might even sell what I have and get the newer system. I have the 645 and I like Mamiya, in a few days I'll have the RB.
If it's going to be your main system then you might want to spend the extra and get a newer, more advanced system. If it was my only system I would want the newer lenses with improved barrels, shutters and coatings.
If I find out I like the RB system I might even sell what I have and get the newer system. I have the 645 and I like Mamiya, in a few days I'll have the RB.
Curt, I started playing with the Pro-S about 25 years ago (along with a 500 cm Hassy). They're both workhorses and with a reasonable amount of care will last a good long time, even if you get 'em used.
I got the prism finder today and it weighs as much as a 35mm camera! Since I started with a waist level finder on my 645, before I got the eye level prism, I'm used to and actually prefer the WLF. I'll use it if I have to walk any distances.
Curt
Curt
The Pro-SD backs are much better than the earlier models since they do not rely on foam seals because they have mechanical light traps. I've used both models and would go for the later model because of the better film backs. Other than that and the shift lens issue there is no big difference. Let us know which you one you brought Frank.
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You don't have to have a Pro SD body to use the Pro SD backs, they work fine with the Pro S body (or even the Pro body). One thing about the Pro SD body is that you need to use a mounting adapter ring on all the lenses except for the KL 500mm or the 75mm shift lens.
All the K/L lenses fit fine on the SD body. Adapter ring is needed for the original lenses and C lenses. Great camera btw. I love it
One advantage on the SD is better light sealing on the film backs (no soft felt seal as the old ones)
Don't be afraid to use the RB67 handheld, which is what I do more often than not, and got perfectly sharp photos. I've walked around town with it (w/90 or 140mm lenses). Excellent camera system.
Great thing about the RB is you can strip it down to just a lens and a back and compose directly on the glass if you want.
I use my RB67 handheld for 3 hour photo shoots all the time. People that whine about the weight need to toughen up...try a month of absynthe and arm wrestling to get on form.
Its certainly possible and I find using a RB67 fulfilling, but the portrait company I worked for ditched the RB for field work in favor of FF digital pretty early though.
same mechanics inside both.
newer, not as heavily used in its years since issued.
a couple really nice lenses for the sd but not really commonly used though.
shop for price, either will serve you just fine.
businesses converting to digital are your best source for rbs.
reasons for converting?... money! digital is fast to the deadlines and can produce higher volume at lower costs. but to stay on top, your hardware costs go up since newer technology makes your brand new camera obsolete in a couple years.... its also due to materials and the electronics they are made of... they cant go the distance under heavy use.
newer, not as heavily used in its years since issued.
a couple really nice lenses for the sd but not really commonly used though.
shop for price, either will serve you just fine.
businesses converting to digital are your best source for rbs.
reasons for converting?... money! digital is fast to the deadlines and can produce higher volume at lower costs. but to stay on top, your hardware costs go up since newer technology makes your brand new camera obsolete in a couple years.... its also due to materials and the electronics they are made of... they cant go the distance under heavy use.
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TheFlyingCamera
Membership Council
I've hand-held an RZ down to 1/15th of a second, and even 1/8th in a pinch. The extra weight adds some stability.
and if you properly use the shoulder strap to suck it in tight.... i use rbs for street shooting.
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