Can the 110/2.8 work on the RB67?
Jeff
Jeff
Mamiya RB67 lens
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A
- Thread starter Jeff Kubach
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Yes it can work on the RB; you just pull out two small pins (very easy) and it fits normally. However, you will have no shutter control... so you either have to rely on the mirror (which is okay for long exposures) or you can hand shutter, which is okay down to 1/16 or so as long as you're not shooting slide. I leave the lens wide open and use my finger to use the DOF preview lever to stop it down... another way to shutter.
I have used the 110 on my RBs and also on 4x5 and 5x7 rigs. it's great fun to work with a lens that fast and with quite good coverage.
I have used the 110 on my RBs and also on 4x5 and 5x7 rigs. it's great fun to work with a lens that fast and with quite good coverage.
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Sorry but I don't call this "working."
Works for me. Very nicely.
NO. the 645 and RB mounts are totally different. We're talking about the RB and RZ, they have very similar lenses, image circles, and almost identical mounts. The only difference in the mechanical part of the mount is that the RZ lenses have some curious little pins that keep them from going on an RB that need to be plucked 
But please note that you won't get infinity focus with RZ lenses on an RB body. The reason is that the flange is a bit different. It's pretty silly and almost certainly designed ot keep the lenses form being interchanged. with a bit of work you can get make it work but... with the bodies so cheap, I don't know anybody who bothers. For most uses of the 110/2.8, i.e. portrait and such, it's totally fine on the RB, as long as you can live without the shutter. (and if you really wanted to play with it, I bet you can rig the signal to the shutter too)
If you really want to use a 645 lens on an RB or RZ, you will have trouble because the mirrors are totally different sizes and so the film to flange distance is totally different. So you'd only do it for macro work. I have done that too, it works okay, what you do is glue an RB body cap to a 645 rear cap, back to back, drill a hole and voila. This "ghetto" adapter can attach almost anything to anything, but is usually useful only for macro because of film-flange distance.
I like to do some pretty extreme macro, in which case I relish the speed of the smaller format lenses. And a fast 35mm lens is just fine for almost any format once you get out into high magnification.
But please note that you won't get infinity focus with RZ lenses on an RB body. The reason is that the flange is a bit different. It's pretty silly and almost certainly designed ot keep the lenses form being interchanged. with a bit of work you can get make it work but... with the bodies so cheap, I don't know anybody who bothers. For most uses of the 110/2.8, i.e. portrait and such, it's totally fine on the RB, as long as you can live without the shutter. (and if you really wanted to play with it, I bet you can rig the signal to the shutter too)
If you really want to use a 645 lens on an RB or RZ, you will have trouble because the mirrors are totally different sizes and so the film to flange distance is totally different. So you'd only do it for macro work. I have done that too, it works okay, what you do is glue an RB body cap to a 645 rear cap, back to back, drill a hole and voila. This "ghetto" adapter can attach almost anything to anything, but is usually useful only for macro because of film-flange distance.
I like to do some pretty extreme macro, in which case I relish the speed of the smaller format lenses. And a fast 35mm lens is just fine for almost any format once you get out into high magnification.
One more quick thing, all the RB lenses can work on the RZs. Important to remember. For some people it may make more sense to get an RZ and buy RB lenses for it.
I think you'll find that reason the flange to focal plane distance was reduced in the RZ compared to the RB, was to allow for a better optical design of the 50mm lens.
Excellent point, hadn't thought of that. Thank you, I'll check that out. And that uld is a very sweet gem. Reason enough to get an RZ body.
......but then you can't do 6x8cm, so nothing's perfect!
Yeah what's up with that mamiya?! Another niggle I have with the rz is that the instant film back doesn't produce a square image, the corners are cropped. Quite annoying.
Hey Keith,
So does this mean if you fire the RB67 + 110/2.8, since you have no control over shutter, it will automatically fire at 1/400? This is interesting. However, the 110/2.8 would only work on the RB67 Pro SD because of the wider lens mount on it? It definitely won't fit on my RB67 Pro.
Thanks for the info.
Cory
Ah yes the pre-SD ones have a narrower throat, right? So goofy. I dont know whether you can get the 110 to fire at 400, I haven't tried, I just hand shutter. Anyway, if the 110 and 50 are goign to be important then I would advise simply to pick up an RZ body, which can take all (as far as I know) the RB lenses.
A reasonable perspective. But the 110/2.8 really is a great lens for some work. And for similarly versatile field of view I would recommend the 127 KL not the 150. The 127 KL is also superb.
How do you do 6x8 with my RB67? How many pictures in a roll of 120?
With the rare 6x8 back.
Is it rare now? Too bad. I also have the mini sheet and plate holders for it. You might try and get your mits on a 6x9 back and see if it'll go on there, it wouldn't surprise me, it has that graflocky mechanism...
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A reasonable perspective. But the 110/2.8 really is a great lens for some work. And for similarly versatile field of view I would recommend the 127 KL not the 150. The 127 KL is also superb.
Had the 127 KL and found it too close to the 90. Prefer the 150 to the 180 for portraits.
Had the 127 KL and found it too close to the 90. Prefer the 150 to the 180 for portraits.
That doesn't sound like fun... Just thought it could be fun to tinker with the 110 on an RB67.
Also, the 150/3.5 KL seems kind of hard to find. Does sound like a good lens though.I actually already have the 110mm and an RZ67. I was just thinking, wouldn't the 110 automatically fire at 1/400 when mounted on an RB, since it fires at 1/400 when used on an RZ67 without a battery. Or does the shutter just stay opened when it's fired on the RB?
I havent' figured out how to cock the shutter on the rb. Maybe if I put some more thought into it....
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