Mamiya C330

Pumalite

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I just got this camera. Dealing with Manual to learn how to compensate with parallax at close quarters and how to compensate for exposure depending on extension of bellows. Any help welcome.
 

Dali

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At close focus, there is a bar sliding below the screen showing you which part of what you see won't be in the nagative (above the bar) and what compensation you should apply to the exposure (there are some figures engraved on the screen. There are the coefficients to apply to the exposure given by your meter).

To use it, don't forget the select the lens mounted on the camera (55, 65, 80,...) , the selector being on the left side of the body (concentric to the Lock/Unlock button used for lens change).

The system is not that accurate by it is far better than nothing.
 

fotch

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With a TLR, I use to use a tripod with a elevator column, raising it the distance needed to put the taking lens where the viewing lens was. I seldom do that now, having several options with other cameras, such as SLR or view cameras.
 

MattKing

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viridari

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The paramender (previously mentioned) is the right tool for this problem. I just got mine a couple of weeks back from KEH. Wish I had gotten it sooner.
 

clayne

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You don't actually *need* the paramender to work around the problem, however. 2nd post covers it quite well.
 

PeterB

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The system is not that accurate by it is far better than nothing.

I always wondered why the little black bar in the view finder never properly lined up with the where the image was cropped
 

benjiboy

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If it's any help the distance between the optical centre of all the Mamiya C lenses is 50mm , so if you raise the centre column of your tripod that distance you should be right.
 

MattKing

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If it's any help the distance between the optical centre of all the Mamiya C lenses is 50mm , so if you raise the centre column of your tripod that distance you should be right.

This is a bit of a nitpick, but this advice is only fully accurate if the tripod head is zeroed to level.
 

MattKing

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