Re: service needed for Mamiya C: Most cameras of that age will need seals replaced if they haven't been. There are also seals under the viewfinder that deteriorate. Frequently leaf shutters will become less accurate over time and especially may not be able to attain the fastest speeds. Some people would say the best thing is to live with these changed shutter speeds because trying to adjust them may cause more problems. We need to test the shutters to find out what the real speeds are, but then can work okay.
Have you considered a 4x5 field/view camera?
...Zeiss made a TLR with different lenses, but that was 35 mm. ...
Your post got me to thinking... As mentioned, the lack of an enlarger would be an issue, but another consideration is developing 4x5 negs. How do people do that these days? Back in the day (1970s) I tried tray development once and said never again. I bought three rubber open-top tanks and a bunch of stainless steel sheet film hangers in 4x5 size. Filled the tanks with developer, stop, and fixer, unloaded the film holders into the hangers in the dark, and did the entire development in the dark, using "lift-and-dip" agitation. Worked well enough. Do most people use Jobo rotary processors to develop 4x5 these days?
Do most people use Jobo rotary processors to develop 4x5 these days?
In my case, I downsized my formerly more extensive system to one C330 body and a 65mm and 135mm lens choice. That serves me well, and I have other cameras that offer other focal lengths.
I was less impressed by the 55mm lens - not because of its optical qualities, but rather because of its speed. That viewfinder image is less bright than I preferred when I was using the system for wedding work.
I semistand process 4x5 in open 1/2gal Kodak rubber tanks, covering them up when I leave the darkroom during the standing period. They are suspended with minimal support Kodak pinch style hangers.
eBay has loads of listings for C330's of various vintages, and most of the sellers are in Japan.
Do these Japanese eBay sellers tend to describe condition accurately, or do they tend to exaggerate? They tend to use terms like "Mint+++" and "Top Mint". Are these just figments of their imaginations or real? Almost all of them have 100% feedback--is that because they accurately describe their listings and thus have satisfied customers, or because they accept returns with no questions asked?
The last camera I bought on eBay was a Nikon F2 about 25 years ago. The condition was described as Mint. The camera I got had dents, rust, a delaminated focusing screen, and a missing screw. I sent it back. I don't want a repeat of that experience...
eBay has loads of listings for C330's of various vintages, and most of the sellers are in Japan.
Do these Japanese eBay sellers tend to describe condition accurately, or do they tend to exaggerate? They tend to use terms like "Mint+++" and "Top Mint". Are these just figments of their imaginations or real? Almost all of them have 100% feedback--is that because they accurately describe their listings and thus have satisfied customers, or because they accept returns with no questions asked?
The last camera I bought on eBay was a Nikon F2 about 25 years ago. The condition was described as Mint. The camera I got had dents, rust, a delaminated focusing screen, and a missing screw. I sent it back. I don't want a repeat of that experience...
Is there any way to tell when a C330 was manufactured from the serial number?
Is there any way to tell when a C330 was manufactured from the serial number?
I've used their light seal kits and been happy with them. Worth noting that they also sell larger pieces of light seal foam very cheaply if you want to cut your own. If you haven't done light seal installation, I recommend The "Fix Old Cameras" technique from youtube. He uses isopropyl alcohol as a release agent to prevent the adhesive on the foam strips from sticking to the sides of the baffle channel during insertion. As the alcohol evaporates, the adhesive sticks but (hopefully) not until you have the strip correctly placed.I've been researching this issue and found this site that sells replacement seals for the viewfinder. Cheap, and they appear easy to install.
Mamiya C330F Screen Frame Seals
Mamiya C330F Screen Frame Seals | Premium Quality Open Cell Foam Lasts Years | Same Japanese Foam As Original | Mamiya Film Cameras | USCamera Foamuscamera.com
Mamiya C330 S Fresnel Frame Light Seals
USCamera Since 1998 | Premium Quality Open Cell Foam Light Seals | Kits | Foam Sheets | Pre-Cut Strips | Mamiya C330 S Fresnel Frame Light Seals | TLRuscamera.com
He uses isopropyl alcohol as a release agent to prevent the adhesive on the foam strips from sticking to the sides of the baffle channel during insertion. As the alcohol evaporates, the adhesive sticks but (hopefully) not until you have the strip correctly placed.
I don't know how he does that, ISP evaporates very, very quickly and faster than you can lay down a strip of foam. Use what the NASCAR teams do when laying down their advertising/colour scheme vinyl wraps, water and mild detergent. In their case they spray it on, with a camera you can use an artists watercolour brush to apply it.
You should be able to access the information from Graham Patterson's site and his downloads. See his System Summary.
Actually the previous-ish post about the A-J cycle very 10 years (follow the Mamiya Repair link) was very illuminating. It explains why the pattern did not fit the specific model ages. Always helps to have the official documentation and not have to reverse engineer it!
I see a re-write in my future.
The instructions I read say to use isopropyl alcohol at no more than 50% concentration.
The instructions I read say to use isopropyl alcohol at no more than 50% concentration.
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