Two digit models like the C33 are really huge and heavy for TLRs: they can be used handheld (Diane Arbus certainly did fine with them), but they're really a bit much. I quickly traded my C33 for the C330f, which is a more practical usable size/weight and includes nice features like user-interchangeable focus screens and updated parallax/distance readouts for the newer lenses. If you want the auto shutter cocking and parallax correction features at a lower price, consider the original C330 instead of later C330f: they are almost identical aside from a focus locking lever added to the C330f.
I agree the fixed body-mounted secondary shutter release is the most unsung advantage of the 330 over the 220: it really comes in handy with lenses that require maximum bellows extension at portrait distances (where the standard lens mount shutter release can end up in awkward positions), and couples to a very nice side grip that also works with the RB67 and M645.
As others have mentioned, the dedicated winding crank on the 330 models is fast to use but doesn't feel as smooth in operation as the basic knob on the 220 models. The 220 models are a bit smaller/lighter and in some ways faster to use: the "gotcha" with the added parallax and distance scales of the 330 is you need to remember to change them to match the lens whenever you change lenses, and the moving parallax indicator in the finder can be distracting.
The 220 retains design cues from earlier Mamiya TLRs: the 220 is the "prettiest" of the rather utilitarian Mamiya TLR designs. Lots of chrome, almost no plastic, and nifty rubber "leatherette" embossed with the letter M as a grippy pattern. Probably the most mechanically reliable Mamiya TLR body overall, and very simple to repair if it does ever need service. Its only real drawback is lack of user-changeable focus screen (although this can be addressed with an aftermarket Britescreen kit from Rick Oleson). The simplified fixed parallax indicator in the 220 finder gives a good idea of the framing area with most of the lenses when used at most typical distances unless you go in super close (at which point you should be using a tripod and the nifty Mamiya "paramender" accessory anyway).
As Old Gregg noted, the final models 330s and 220f are highly desirable for their very bright, contrasty, upgraded focus screens: the best medium format screens I've ever used. The 330s officially supports user-exchangeable screens, the 220f unofficially supports the same choice of screens as the 330s. Neither can use the older screens from the earlier 330 or 330f models. Until recently I owned both 330s and 220f, plus an older backup 220. But I discovered over time I much preferred the smoother winding, simplified operation and lower weight of the 220f, so sold the 330s. I think the final 220f is the most usable fun Mamiya TLR body, but its a nondescript black lump of a camera prioritizing functionality over form.
Mamiya significantly improved the waist level finder for these cameras in later years: it is well worth waiting for or paying extra for a camera with the later version that self-erects and is fully light tight. The older version WLF with manual flap folds has a big open gap between the magnifier and the folding sides: this allows lots of light and distracting reflections to reach the focusing screen.
Re lens quality: condition is everything. Forget the lore about the newest "blue dot lenses" - worn examples can be as bad or worse than poor examples of older versions. Mamiya TLR lenses are very prone to hazing (which is fortunately easy to clean off), and people tended to swap the viewing and taking glass when one or the other got scratched (which can sometimes lead to softness). Good clean glass and properly running shutters will result in fine quality from most of the lenses, even ancient silver barrel versions, as long as they haven't been overly tampered with.
A couple of the lenses are standouts, with the 180mm Super being incredibly sharp for a medium format tele. Both versions of the 105mm are interesting (older a Tessar formula, newer is a Heliar derivative). The 135mm is a nice compact portrait lens, but handling is clumsy due to the bellows racking all the way out to focus it (leading to mixed reviews of sharpness handheld). The 65mm had the widest range of sample variation: they can be extremely good or mediocre. The 55mm is controversial, with some photographers finding its rendering rather harsh (newer examples with high serial numbers over 9xxx seem a bit better).