I've done it on 180mm and 250mm lenses with no ill effects.
I haven't done it. Even if they are identical in every way, keep in mind that viewing and taking lenses may have a different set of shims at the mounting flange. These, in combination with a different rear lens group may not produce ideal results. Simply swapping shims wouldn't solve the problem, either. You would need to collimate the lens groups to eliminate the variables. Doesn't hurt to try. I would mark the barrels so I could remember which was which originally.
Did not. If my eyes cannot tell the difference, that's enough for me.Cool, I heard it works on all lenses except the latest black 80mm S. Did you re-collimate the lenses too or no?
As noted, you can swap out the elements in most of the Mamiya TLR lenses with the exception of the 80mm f/2.8 S lens and the 80mm f/3.7. But it is important to check focus on the lens pairs to insure that they are tracking focus together. All of the C lenses have washer/shims installed. There are between three and four different thickness of shims depending on the lens. You will not see these shims just by taking off elements, they are between the shutter and the lens board and the viewing lens mount and the front of the lens board.
Added: There are six different versions of the 105mm lens so not a good idea to swap elements between examples unless they are of the same version.
Yes, you can take the front and rear lenses from the chrome 80mm and swap them with another chrome 80mm. But as mentioned, these lenses have a series of shims for adjustment underneath the shutter and the viewing lens mount. Important to check that focus on the viewing screen and the film plane is the same. While ideally the taking and viewing lenses should be shimmed independent of the body, this is not practical without the proper tools so using a know good body will work close enough. For reference, here is how I do this particular task:
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