What focal length would be best for all around general use?
MAMIYA C-33
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The 80mm standard lens is excellent. as are the C33 cameras I had one until it was stolen in the early 1980's.
Ian
Ian
You only have three choices, 65mm, 80mm, or 105mm, in the 'normal-ish' range. The 65mm is roughly like a 35mm on 35mm format, the 80mm feels a little wider than the 50mm on 35mm format. The 105mm feels more like 60 or 65mm on the smaller format. This is the subjective feel for me. Exactly how this would work out depends on how you use the square frame (format after any cropping). The usual 80mm is a half-stop faster than the other two, which are f3.5. This does not affect exposure much - unless you specialize in wide-open work. But the viewing lens is the same aperture, which has a bearing on focusing.
Personally, if I was just using one lens, I'd choose the 80mm. On the other hand I have paired a 65mm with a 135mm successfully, and used a 105mm in a 55, 105, 180 set.
Personally, if I was just using one lens, I'd choose the 80mm. On the other hand I have paired a 65mm with a 135mm successfully, and used a 105mm in a 55, 105, 180 set.
I have been extremely impressed with my chrome 80mm f2.8 on Mamiya C-series. Great in-focus and out of focus. Here's a picture of my dog that I took with it, cropped: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132764966@N03/48662410362/in/dateposted-public/
I think I like the lens more than my Hasselblad Planar 80mm.
I did a test a few months ago between the 105mm 3.5 D (black, with a D on the lens ring, Heliar design, pretty highly hyped lens) and the 80mm and I can't for the life of me tell if one is better than the other, so I don't think there is a major sharpness difference between them. The purported main benefit of the 5-element 105mm as opposed to the older, 4 element tessar design is better bokeh. I believe it is true that the new 105 is better than the old one, but compared to the already excellent bokeh of the 80 I don't know if it's there's a real reason to get the 105 over the 80, which is cheap, sharp, fast and has good bokeh. I just got the 65 and haven't developed anything from it yet so I can't comment on it. I have heard generally good things though.
One cool thing about some versions of the 105mm (the black "DS" version) is that they have an aperture in the viewing lens and can provide aperture preview. I don't think any other non-SLR camera has this feature. They also have a self-timer. This lens usually trades for around $200, and I think that's only worth it if you want the extra features. Optically you will be well served by one of the lenses going for a third of that price.
I think I like the lens more than my Hasselblad Planar 80mm.
I did a test a few months ago between the 105mm 3.5 D (black, with a D on the lens ring, Heliar design, pretty highly hyped lens) and the 80mm and I can't for the life of me tell if one is better than the other, so I don't think there is a major sharpness difference between them. The purported main benefit of the 5-element 105mm as opposed to the older, 4 element tessar design is better bokeh. I believe it is true that the new 105 is better than the old one, but compared to the already excellent bokeh of the 80 I don't know if it's there's a real reason to get the 105 over the 80, which is cheap, sharp, fast and has good bokeh. I just got the 65 and haven't developed anything from it yet so I can't comment on it. I have heard generally good things though.
One cool thing about some versions of the 105mm (the black "DS" version) is that they have an aperture in the viewing lens and can provide aperture preview. I don't think any other non-SLR camera has this feature. They also have a self-timer. This lens usually trades for around $200, and I think that's only worth it if you want the extra features. Optically you will be well served by one of the lenses going for a third of that price.
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I have the 80 mm 2.8 SEIKOSHA-S so it seems this would be the right choice.
Like others here I must say that the 80 is the best choice. I also have the C33 and always have the 80 on it. I also have the 65 and the 105 but find myself using the 80 about 95% of the time. The 65 would be my second choice as it usually resides on my C220.
MattKing
Moderator
I have reduced my C330 kit to a 65mm and 135mm tandem. One body, two lenses, two finders, a left hand grip, a hand meter, some film and some filters - it all fits in a moderately small and reasonably light bag.
Another question,will my 80mm 2.8 SEIKOSHA-S lens fit a c-33? I have just purchased the c-33 but it has yet to be delivered. I have been using the lens on a c-3.
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Yes, the C33 is the first of the fully featured C3 range and has almost all the features of the later C330 etc that are missing on the C3. After the C33 Mamiya's build quality became more dumbed down an then used more plastics in later M330 models. But taht was a general tren with Japanese cameras anyway.
Ian
Ian
Most definitely. That is what I have on mine.
Thanks to all. I was a bit confused when a website that I checked stated that my lens would not fit. It's a luxury to have the correct information from actual users rather than "experts".
Best lens for 'General use' is generally going to depend on the photographer using it.
The nice thing about the Mamiya TLR series is that all the lenses from the line are good quality, and it is hard to go wrong with them. The newer black bodied lenses handle flair and such a bit better, but even the older chrome bodies will produce lovely images. [My biggest complaint about the chrome lens/shutters is that the aperture scale is on the far side of the lens, while the newer models put both aperture and shutter speed scales on the same side.]
The 80 is the most common and most frequently mentioned lens, but personally I lean more towards my 180mm or 250mm.
The 250 is a bit of a pain if you enjoy the auto cocking mechanic of the C33/330, but is perfectly usable with only a small amount of attention.
The nice thing about the Mamiya TLR series is that all the lenses from the line are good quality, and it is hard to go wrong with them. The newer black bodied lenses handle flair and such a bit better, but even the older chrome bodies will produce lovely images. [My biggest complaint about the chrome lens/shutters is that the aperture scale is on the far side of the lens, while the newer models put both aperture and shutter speed scales on the same side.]
The 80 is the most common and most frequently mentioned lens, but personally I lean more towards my 180mm or 250mm.
The 250 is a bit of a pain if you enjoy the auto cocking mechanic of the C33/330, but is perfectly usable with only a small amount of attention.
Then you are the perfect person to ask,does your combination offer automatic shutter cocking?
The very early 1/400 speed Seikosha shutter lenses will not work with the auto-cocking bodies. The 1/500 speed Seikosha-S and black Seiko shutters are fine (there is an early 18cm that has issues, but that is out
side the focal lengths under discussion, and the Copal shutter 80mm f3.7 is manual cocking).
side the focal lengths under discussion, and the Copal shutter 80mm f3.7 is manual cocking).
The camera has arrived,very good condition with one potential issue. The film advance crank is not tight to the body there is a little wobble. Is this common to these cameras following heavy use? Also is there a relatively simple fix?
I had to have my one Mamiya serviced, it's over 35 years ago I can't remember if it was the C33 or C3, There are parts in the wind mechanism that wear and fail, and once replaced the mechanism was as good as new.
Thinking back it was the C3 that failed while shooting a friends wedding, it appeared to be winding on but the film wasn't being advanced. The Mamiya TLR's were favourites of wedding photographers and usually saw a lot of use. I was told replacing some parts in the wind issue was quite a regular and common repair, and I had no issues after the repair.
Ian
Thinking back it was the C3 that failed while shooting a friends wedding, it appeared to be winding on but the film wasn't being advanced. The Mamiya TLR's were favourites of wedding photographers and usually saw a lot of use. I was told replacing some parts in the wind issue was quite a regular and common repair, and I had no issues after the repair.
Ian
I neglected to mention that it works,winds the film and cocks the shutter.I am not a pro,shoot perhaps one roll per week so I will use it until it fails. With luck it won't. While on the subject can anyone recommend a MAMIYA repair shop?
International Camera Repair
Suite #503
9 N. Wabash Ave
Chicago, Illinois 60602
312-630-1017
WWW.icamera.com
info@icamera.com
Johnsons Photopia arejust down the road from you Antony in Stoke on Trent,, they are or rather were the Mamiya importer and repairers.
Ian
Ian
Ian,that's a long swim from CHESHIRE,CONNECTICUT! Ha ha!
On a serious note I am of ENGLISH and WELSH ancestry and I would love to visit Stoke on Trent however at age 79 it may not be possible.
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