Mamiya 7ii focusing help

[Chrishuddersfield]

Hello

I’m currently at uni and studying a darkroom module. I loan out their Mamiya 7ii, which is suppose to be a high end film camera.. I’ve got a bit familiar with it but I seem to struggling with focusing. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever used and I’m finding this difficult. I’ve recently shot some landscape stuff, which I set on f22 and infinity focus and the images seemed ok (because I’m struggling to focus). The thing is I’m wanting to shoot some interior building work now and I don’t know the best option. I’ve heard many use the external view finder, but I can’t seem to get one. I do like the aperture priority mode and this helps me a lot due to my lack of experience, but I don’t know any other MF cameras that have AP mode.
Anyone else had problems focusing ?Any advice or help would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time

 

[MARTIE]

It's a rangefinder. You should see 2 images slightly misaligned and once you've superimposed one on top of the other, you're in focus.

 

[MARTIE]

The external viewfinders are for composition only and have absolutely no focusing aid capabilities.
Which lens are you using because yiu don't need an external viewfinder for all of the lenses?

 

[MARTIE]

While exposure using aperture priority mode can be nice and even helpful in some situations, a handheld light meter and manual mode would probably be the way to go for most situations especially if you can use a tripod.

 

[Oren Grad]

See page 24 of the instruction manual:

https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_7ii/mamiya_7ii.htm

 

[MARTIE]

I've got one of these camera's with the 150mm, 80mm, 65mm and 43mm lenses.
It is arguably one of the finest medium format camera's and lenses by one of the greatest camera manufacturers of its generation. It certainly was high-end and was perhaps even the pinnacle of their innovation.

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Hi all and thanks for the quick reply. im siding the 80mm lens. I’ve been in an old mill today and the light wasn’t great, I think that’s why I’m struggling with the focus. Outside closer the focus seems to line up easier. It’s a huge old mill and I’ll trying to focus it all in. Longer exposures. I’ve tried a light meter too but I’m getting so much mixed and conflicting feedback regarding that.. especially with landscape. Some have said use reflective, or incident and others said spot metering.. so that’s why I’m using the auto aperture mode. I’m only getting 10 images per roll and I’m trying to be safe, also cost of the films etc.

 

[MARTIE]

Rangefinders work best with edges, lines, patterns anywhere where there's contrast really. You need to be able to see something line-up.

 

[MARTIE]

A light meter is just a tool, it adds a bit of versatility to your toolbox and it's a great way to learn about light and exposure.
All of the metering modes work, it's just that you need to know what you're doing and that comes with practice and experience.

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Thanks for the advice. I use a light meter for portrait work, but landscape is where i struggle trying to get the right exposure, and today I’m the mill, there was dim ish light coming from outside in through the windows all around the floor, so I wasn’t sure what type of metering to use for this type of shot, but it’s something I’ll practice on 35mm more, then eventually 120m when I can afford it .It’s a cost thing at the moment. :/

 

[ic-racer]

Can you post the out of focus negatives?

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Hi

I haven’t developed them yet. Im back at the mill tomorrow. Im thinking of taking some A2 card with something on it and maybe use that to focus on. The dark brick walls are hard to focus. Thanks everyone. If anyone has any links or recommended reading on light meters and exposure that would be appreciated too. They don’t seem to fully know at college..and seem to evade that topic (landscape, buildings etc).

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

It's a rangefinder. You should see 2 images slightly misaligned and once you've superimposed one on top of the other, you're in focus.

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

The external viewfinders are for composition only and have absolutely no focusing aid capabilities.
Which lens are you using because yiu don't need an external viewfinder for all of the lenses?

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Thanks

While exposure using aperture priority mode can be nice and even helpful in some situations, a handheld light meter and manual mode would probably be the way to go for most situations especially if you can use a tripod.

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

See page 24 of the instruction manual:

https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_7ii/mamiya_7ii.htm

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

I've got one of these camera's with the 150mm, 80mm, 65mm and 43mm lenses.
It is arguably one of the finest medium format camera's and lenses by one of the greatest camera manufacturers of its generation. It certainly was high-end and was perhaps even the pinnacle of their innovation.

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Rangefinders work best with edges, lines, patterns anywhere where there's contrast really. You need to be able to see something line-up.

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

A light meter is just a tool, it adds a bit of versatility to your toolbox and it's a great way to learn about light and exposure.
All of the metering modes work, it's just that you need to know what you're doing and that comes with practice and experience.

Thanks

 

[MattKing]

One handy trick when it comes to rangefinder focusing is to recognize when there are other objects in the general scene that are the same distance away as the objects you need to be in precise focus. Some of those alternate objects may have better illumination and/or visible vertical lines that make rangefinder focusing easy. Something like setting the focus using someone's striped shirt, rather than their face. Once the focus is set, re-adjust the framing to what you want in the photo.
As for metering, I'm a big fan of using an incident meter. Stand near the subject or in the same light as the light hitting the subject, point the incident meter back toward the camera and set the camera to what the meter suggests.

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

One handy trick when it comes to rangefinder focusing is to recognize when there are other objects in the general scene that are the same distance away as the objects you need to be in precise focus. Some of those alternate objects may have better illumination and/or visible vertical lines that make rangefinder focusing easy. Something like setting the focus using someone's striped shirt, rather than their face. Once the focus is set, re-adjust the framing to what you want in the photo.
As for metering, I'm a big fan of using an incident meter. Stand near the subject or in the same light as the light hitting the subject, point the incident meter back toward the camera and set the camera to what the meter suggests.

Thanks

So would you use incident for this scene?

See attached.

cheers

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Reference shot from iPhone.

 

[MARTIE]

Chris, in all honesty, if you can meter for portraits, then you can meter just about anything!

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Which part of this would you focus on to get it all in focus? Half way in? Sorry for all the questions.
Appreciated.

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Another ref shot from the other day. It was lighter then.