Mamiya 645AFD shutter repair

Hello,

I bought a used camera in AS-IS condition and found that 1 curtain in shutter was broken like in this image
Same camera, same curtain.
So i just removed it and honestly i can use the camera now , but i have overexposed line, like in this photo
For B&W photo is not hard to remove overexposed line with gradient filter in Lightroom (yes , i'm not expert in Lightroom) , but with Color i have much problems , btw i'm bought some Provia slides and don't know how it will affect on it.
Not tested with prints from film , only scanned.

So, main question is : i'm need to buy another "broken" body to replace whole shutter or there is a way to replace curtain with same material hand-crafted?
I'm not rich and photography is my hobby, so i can't afford service repair (i think new shutter will be over 500$ ) and it's terrotorialy impossible.

a) shutter curtains move extremely fast. There's been decades of R&D and improvements to get them where they are today, they are extremely strong and light and there's no way you can just 'make' one.
but b) as far as I know, the only difference between a 645AF and AFD is in the way it communicates with the backs. AF bodies are relatively cheap compared to AFD because they can't take digital backs. For $3-400 you can get a working AF body, or maybe find a junk one with a decent shutter to swap out for $200. No idea how much a real repair would cost, but probably more than that.
Good luck.

Does this camera have a second set of curtains like a Hasselblad? Otherwise, I'm wondering why the film isn't totally over exposed from the gaping hole that the missing shutter blade makes?

Cute cat by the way.

Dr Croubie said:

a) shutter curtains move extremely fast. There's been decades of R&D and improvements to get them where they are today, they are extremely strong and light and there's no way you can just 'make' one.
but b) as far as I know, the only difference between a 645AF and AFD is in the way it communicates with the backs. AF bodies are relatively cheap compared to AFD because they can't take digital backs. For $3-400 you can get a working AF body, or maybe find a junk one with a decent shutter to swap out for $200. No idea how much a real repair would cost, but probably more than that.
Good luck.

Click to expand...

a) sure , i'm understand , that it is not kind of work , which can be repaired by "adhesive tape". It's just a idea
b) yes , i'm looked AF bodies , but still 300-400$ it's lot of money for me (this camera was bought for 300$ + film back and manual lense)
btw , thank for your answer!

momus said:

Does this camera have a second set of curtains like a Hasselblad? Otherwise, I'm wondering why the film isn't totally over exposed from the gaping hole that the missing shutter blade makes?

Cute cat by the way​

Click to expand...

Yes , this camera have two set of curtain in shutter. Or by second set you mean lens shutter? Honestly i'm never tried Hasselblad =)
It's not totally over exposed, because hole in upper place and it hide from light by mirror and overexposed in time when mirror ups and down only.
Thank you. It was test shot with Biometar 80 2.8

Please forget about doing by yourself. I may request to save for CLA or just replace this camera. DIY is more expensive than CLA.

that type of shutter is best replaced. those rivets that hold the blade in place are most likely brass or copper but might be carbon fiber and the blade has to move freely to work. tape or glue is out of the question.

IF! the blade was out of position, it could be teased back into position with a tweezers. Even if there's a kink in the blade.
There is usually a thin separator between the blades so if it's in the wrong slot, the shutter will hang up.

I've usually seen this on 35's with vertical travel shutters when someone has put their finger into it.