Making Copy Negatives With Delta 100

16 Oct 2006

I am not sure this is the correct forum for this question, but here it goes.

I am interested in making 50 or so copies of a print that requires a lot of work under the enlarger. Therefore I would like to make a copy negative of a final print so I can make the copies more easily. My question is ...

Are there any "gotcha's" that I should look for when photographing the print and when processing the copy negative. I can shoot either 120 or 4x5.

All suggestions welcome.

Regards,
Darwin

drpsilver said:

16 Oct 2006

I am not sure this is the correct forum for this question, but here it goes.

I am interested in making 50 or so copies of a print that requires a lot of work under the enlarger. Therefore I would like to make a copy negative of a final print so I can make the copies more easily. My question is ...

Are there any "gotcha's" that I should look for when photographing the print and when processing the copy negative. I can shoot either 120 or 4x5.

All suggestions welcome.

Regards,
Darwin

Click to expand...

A tip that I picked up, from a wonderful printer who worked for Ilford, about copying negatives was to make a print about 1.5 to 2 grades softer than the final print you wish to make from the original negative. Wash and dry and then photograph that print, he used FP4, and process as normal. The resultant negative will show virtually the same contrast as the original negative. As it happens I have made prints from copy negatives that Terry made using this method and could see no difference in the print made from the original negative.

As Les implies, the main issue is that contrast increases markedly in the copy unless you take action to stop it. You can do it at the print stage as Les says when copying your own pictures. I am usually copying old photos so have to do it at the neg stage, and actually prefer that for my own pics as it makes it easier to judge what the final product will look like. I over expose by a stop, them pull develop to match. I use Kodak Tec Pan (I still have plenty) rather than Delta, for still higher resolution, but Delta 100 or Pan F should do, especially given medium or large format. I use a Mamiya RB67 for its close focus ability.

David.

19 Oct 2006

Les and David:

Thanks for the hints. Since I am copying my own prints I can try both methods and see which works best for my process.

Regards,
Darwin

Making the copy negative from a fairly low contrast original helps avoid shadow and highlight compression. Restoring contrast in the second generation print exaggerates any flaws in the original, so the original has to be done as well as possible. Tech Pan was a great film for copy negatives.