making bw slides from negatives

[vedmak]

If I have a nikon micro lens, and would like to mount it to the enlarger 39mm thread, which adapter rings do I need?

any help is greatly appreciated.
Yuriy

 

[Donald Qualls]

Why would you do it this way, instead of simply rephotographing the negative in camera? Either a slide copying attachment with your lens at 1:1, or a light box and copy stand with the same lens setting will do a better job. If the negative to be copied is bigger than 35mm, this would handle it (at suitable reproduction ratio); otherwise that Micro Nikkor probably won't cover the frame in the enlarger.

Otherwise, you'd need a suitable Nikon to M39 adapter, but such a thing probably doesn't exist because why would anyone want to mount a Micro Nikkor on a Leica -- or an enlarger? Can you even manually stop down the aperture?

The one way that might work is a Nikon to M42 adapter, with an M42 to M39 behind it. That wouldn't work for infinity focus on a camera, but the bellow on the enlarger likely makes it possible. It would probably cost as much or more than a slide copying attachment, perhaps a few dollars less than a copy stand (light boxes can be improvised -- a tablet with a sheet of frosted acetate over the screen, displaying a solid white image in full screen, works well).

 

[AgX]

Yes, putting that lens at a camera by means of a bellows and attaching at the front a slide-copier is the way to go. With a good slide copying attachment you even may do crops.
As film best use slow film intended for copying. As cine print film.

Otherwise you need adapters camera-mount > M42 > M39 and best a spooled-film copying cassette on the board.
Maybe the bellows of your enlarger would not even yield 1/1, then extension tubes would be necessary.

 

[Kino]

Kodak 5302/2302 Positive film can be handled under an OA safelight. Make emulsion to emulsion contact slides by placing the 5302/2302 emulsion up a sheet of clean paper on the enlarger board. Lay the desired negative on top, emulsion down. Cut a matte board aperture to define the slide exposure area and lay that on top of the sandwitch with a sheet of clean glass on top.

Just like a print, make test exposures with a card varying the time and process in dektol (close enough); stop and fix as normal.

 

[AgX]

But as the OP already hinted at optical copying I guess he wants more than plain 1/1 copying.
But maybe with several choices around, he just overlooked contact copying.

 

[Kino]

But as the OP already hinted at optical copying I guess he wants more than plain 1/1 copying.
But maybe with several choices around, he just overlooked contact copying.

True. Then just do as you suggest and just load a camera with 5302/2302 and use a slide copier or extension tubes. The ideal thing about 5302/2302 is the ability to develop under a safelight...

 

[vedmak]

Why would you do it this way, instead of simply rephotographing the negative in camera? Either a slide copying attachment with your lens at 1:1, or a light box and copy stand with the same lens setting will do a better job. If the negative to be copied is bigger than 35mm, this would handle it (at suitable reproduction ratio); otherwise that Micro Nikkor probably won't cover the frame in the enlarger.

Otherwise, you'd need a suitable Nikon to M39 adapter, but such a thing probably doesn't exist because why would anyone want to mount a Micro Nikkor on a Leica -- or an enlarger? Can you even manually stop down the aperture?

The one way that might work is a Nikon to M42 adapter, with an M42 to M39 behind it. That wouldn't work for infinity focus on a camera, but the bellow on the enlarger likely makes it possible. It would probably cost as much or more than a slide copying attachment, perhaps a few dollars less than a copy stand (light boxes can be improvised -- a tablet with a sheet of frosted acetate over the screen, displaying a solid white image in full screen, works well).

I would like to do it this way since I might take pictures of 4x5 or 6x6 negative not just 35mm.

 

[AgX]

Some slide copiers yield larger formats. But I got your point. Use whatever means less hassle to you.

 

[Jojje]

Back in the day we used to contact copy black and white negatives to Agfa ortho film.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Back in the day we used to contact copy black and white negatives to Agfa ortho film.

Still an option. For sheet film, there is Arista Ortho Lith film (which develops to continuous tone and controllable contrast in print developers like Dektol); for 35mm and 120, there's Ilford Ortho 80.

 

[vedmak]

thank you all for great information.