making a positive from a negative

If you were to use film a size bigger than the original (say, 5x7 for 4x5) then you would not have to worry about exact placement of the sheets and it might be easier for you.

cmacd123 said:

I supect that it is easy for folks to mix up "ortho"and "Litho" and assume that they are always the same thing. some ORTHO film are continuous tone, others are intended for very high contrast (LITHO) use. the Litho developes tend to be designed to make ANY film have high contrast.

Click to expand...

Dead on. Use ortho film and develop in print developer.

DREW WILEY said:

I think that if you used a print profile sleeve you'd get Newton rings and other visual anomalies. The kind of "contact printing" the marketers of that kind of thing have in mind is only for the most casual kind of proofing purposes.

Click to expand...

that’s exactly what I was wondering. Thanks for confirming.

Pieter12 said:

If you were to use film a size bigger than the original (say, 5x7 for 4x5) then you would not have to worry about exact placement of the sheets and it might be easier for you.

Click to expand...

great idea! I forgot I have some 5x7 that I occasionally cut down to 3.5x2.5 for my baby Technika. Drew might not approve since it’s Fomapan 100 (just kidding) but it will work for testing before I splurge on Ilford or Kodak. (Large format is expensive for tests...). And the Ilford Ortho film isn’t too expensive and will give me my sight back, if I know I can make this work.

Yeah, doing it with an oversized sheet makes it real easy location-wise. Keep good notes. Once you've pinned down your personal variables, the procedure becomes easy to replicate. I was able to do this kind of thing long before I owned a densitometer.