This is a relatively simple task and the requirements are minimal.
The blank glass cut to size (2mm thick is ideal)
A sheet of Wet & Dry #200 to #400 grit
The grinding grit (one or two grades) #400 & #600 Silicon Carbide
A piece of glass as the grinding tool (blank) approx 2"x2" to 3"x3" (5x5 to 7.5x7.5 cm)
(I use 1/4" - 6mm thick glass as the grinding blank as it's easy to handle.)
SAFETY...
Thanks Ian - I'll have to have a go at this for my Speed Graphic!
Have you tried doing two at once instead of using a separate grinding piece? As you say, modern glass is very flat so the reason given in 1898 for not doing it shouldn't stand any more...
Automotive compond is coarser and faster. The coarser the grind the brighter the image but the more a center spot dominates.Ian, have you ever used automotive grade valve lapping compound and do you know of its effectiveness, pros, cons?
Ian, have you ever used automotive grade valve lapping compound and do you know of its effectiveness, pros, cons?
Have you tried doing two at once instead of using a separate grinding piece? As you say, modern glass is very flat so the reason given in 1898 for not doing it shouldn't stand any more...
Very good article. Thanks Ian. Now just need to find a silicon carbide supplier.
for those looking for silicon carbide try those dealing in amateure telescope making they usually have supplies of the stuff.
[...] I wish my fresnel on the Crown Graphic was coated. I guess I could coat it with the anti-reflective spray sold for studio use.
I thought that at least with one side still coated with less reflection that maybe a GG could be used sans dark cloth in a few more situations than normally ... Your thoughts ?
Is there any advantage to going finer than #600 grit, or is it a matter of diminishing returns beyond that?
Can you use this method to make a quasi-ANR neg carrier top glass?
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