Good morning
I havent used mine for macro but i do remember that the manual has the info you are looking for .you can find it very easy online and it is the same for all the models
if you cant find it let me know and i will send you a copy. try this link Mamiya RB67 PRO-S instruction manual, user manual, free PDF manual, free manuals camera guide (butkus.org)
Mitch
Retrofocus lens; use the scale on the camera.
The exposure compensation table on the camera is a brilliant idea! Hasselblad forces you to carry a close-up calculator. (I agree, it's a small problem...)
By moving the nodal point in relation to the position of the lens mount, and therefore in relation to the position that that exposure compensation scale works with.How does retrofocus or telefocus change the draw compensation?
Here's the scale from the manual. It doesn't show the 50mm. But it has the magnifications for both macro extension tubes and the additional stops for the bellow's extensions.I have never needed to use my 50mm wide-angle for macro work. The 90mm normal lens and 140mm macro lens are all I have ever needed. With these two lenses, I can easily obtain a 1:1 macro shot.
At first, I tried using the scale on the side of the RB67 camera body for bellows factor exposure compensation but found it useless for my macro work because my scale does not include the 140mm macro lens and it does not compensate for the extension tubes I use in addition to the bellows.
With the 90mm lens, I use the full 40mm bellows extension plus the 45mm extension tube to fill the 6x7cm frame with a 7cm subject for a 1:1 ratio.
With the 140mm lens, I use 6mm of bellows extension plus the 45mm extension tube plus the 82mm extension tube to fill the 6x7cm frame with a 7cm subject for a 1:1 ratio.
Either way, I know that the extension for a 1:1 macro shot requires a 2-stop exposure compensation. No need for the scale.
By moving the nodal point in relation to the position of the lens mount, and therefore in relation to the position that that exposure compensation scale works with.
For clarity, it doesn't change the compensation, it changes how that indicator shows the compensation.
With a retrofocus or telephoto lens you can't use tape measures to (easily) calculate exposure compensation, unless you can figure out where that nodal point actually is, because that is where you need to measure from.
It is better to use magnification to do the calculation, and even better to use the scale.
Speaking generally though, while the 50mm lens permits very close work, it isn't a stellar performer if you need flat field close work.
Here's the scale from the manual. It doesn't show the 50mm. But it has the magnifications for both macro extension tubes and the additional stops for the bellow's extensions.
I think I've got a set of 77mm diopters, though; those should let me get close without moving the lens so far from the film, which ought to help some with the field curvature problems in macro work.
Maybe the 50mm came out later. It could be in the RZ67 manual or a later RB manual. Don't know?Thanks for the scale from the manual. Regretfully, not only does it not have the 50mm lens but it also does not have the 140mm macro lens. However, the 90mm information looks accurate.
What do you shoot that you need all those?I have a set of +1, +2, +4, and +10 77mm diopters that I use with my RB67 bellows and extension tubes so I can obtain magnifications greater than what I can obtain with bellows alone, extension tubes alone, or bellows and extension tubes combined.
What type of macro subjects will you be shooting and how much magnification will you need?
What do you shoot that you need all those?
Yes! I've used a Mamiya RB67 with the 50mm lens for a long time both for wides and close-ups and the compensation scale on the camera is good. The 50mm is a strong retrofocus design so the entrance and exit pupils are different sizes so the effective f-stop (pupillary magnification effect) is not what simple geometry would imply.Retrofocus lens; use the scale on the camera.
What type of macro subjects will you be shooting and how much magnification will you need?
Don't forget to set the floating element control ring to the right distance or near to it. The floating element does not make a lot of difference at infinity but in close-ups the corner image quality is definitely improved by the right setting.
In the past, I've shot flowers for the most part (get this: with a Pony 135 and a diopter, or with a Kodak Reflex II and my dad's glasses as a diopter).
Since it is retrofocus design, using 50mm for the focal length in the "bellows equation for simple lenses" give the wrong answer. The camera designers already figured this out for you and printed it on the scale on the camera; they did not make a mistake.Can you elaborate? The focusing scale shows different curves for each focal length -- the one for 50mm is so steep as to be difficult to read a distance, while the one for 360 mm is very long, and the slopes of the curves are in order and approximately proportional as focal length increases -- but the compensation bars are all over the place, and shortest draw for compensation to longest isn't much of a difference. How does retrofocus or telefocus change the draw compensation?
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