Lubricating focusing track

Cybertrash · Feb 1, 2014

I recently bought a Kodak Specialist Model 2 (5x7 camera), and the rack and pinion focusing on the front standard seems a little rough. The focus knob is hard to turn and sometimes the gear seems to slip, I was wondering what the best way to lubricate this would be?

Newt_on_Swings · Feb 1, 2014

I'm not sure if it was the right way but I took apart a section of a geared track for the front rise on my wista. I cleaned it up with naphtha and brushed out all the teeth before applying a few dabs of white lithium grease and rolling the gear and track back and forth before wiping any excess out. Then I reattached everything and tightened it down.

Trail Images · Feb 1, 2014

There was a very recent thread on a similar issue and there were several good ideas posted. I was having a bit of an issue with my Wista DXIII and sticky rails, as well as my base plates on it and my RB67 sticky sliding into my tripod ballhead. One suggestion off a Linhof posting apparently was to use a very tiny bit of petroleum jelly. I used a smidgen and wiped everything super clean and was amazed at how things slide now.

AgX · Feb 1, 2014

What about dry-lubrication?

Either by wax (wax solution/suspension as in chain-wax) driped onto the track or a PTFE-powder sprayed onto the track (after taping or dismounting).

David A. Goldfarb · Feb 1, 2014

I've used lithium grease and Linhof's recommendation of petroleum jelly, and both work fine. Cleaning the old grease with naphtha is also a good idea.

athanasius80 · Feb 1, 2014

Don't forget to clean out the guide tracks on the outside of the front rail. I had a 5x7 Korona with the same front standard issue. After cleaning with a toothpick and solvent and reoiling, it was like a different camera. If petroleum jelly or lithium grease are too heavy for your taste, try synthetic clock oil. It lasts for years and doesn't gum up.

Cybertrash · Feb 2, 2014

Thanks for the answer everyone, I think I'll give the petroleum jelly a shot (that's similar to Vaseline, right?). I assume that the gears on the front standard need cleaning/lubricating as the rear standard slides across the track without any problems whatsoever.

Also, I haven't been able to find out much about the Kodak Specialist Model 2 on the internet, but to me it seems similar to the 5x7 Kodak 2D, but uglier. Does anyone know if they are indeed the same (or similar) cameras?

Trail Images · Feb 2, 2014

I think I'll give the petroleum jelly a shot (that's similar to Vaseline, right?)

That is exactly what I used, Vaseline that is....

Pete O · Feb 2, 2014

Hi Cyber,
I have a Kodak Specialist Model 2 that was built in the U.K. Mine is in an "Un-restored" state and needs a fair bit of work doing to it. Mine came without (and seems to have been manufactured without) the bed extension that I now have thanks to a wonderfully generous lady in the south of England. It is NOT a 5x7, it's a half plate. This does not mean that 5x7 film holders won't fit into the camera, it just means that the ground glass only covers 4.75 x 6.5. As far as L.F cameras are concerned the U.K. was a PITA and stuck to plate sizes for years. In the British Journal Photographic Almanac for 1955 the camera is described as "A compact (I think they were on another planet) sturdily-built half-plate stand camera designed to meet the most searching requirements of professional, commercianal, industrial or scientific photographers". It was supplied with a blank lens board or with an 8 inch f 7.7 Kodak Ektar lens Luminised (coated) in a synchronised 8- speed "Epsioln" shutter.
In my opinion and comparing it to my 1926 Ansco 5x7 and my B&J 5x7 the whole thing is over engineered and weighs a ton. There is no way that I would regard it as portable in 5x7 terms and in my opinion the smallsize of the lens board is a total pain. There again I only paid £50 UKP for the thing so I'm not upset about it.
Pete.

pasiasty · Feb 3, 2014

I use silicon paste for such purposes.

AgX · Feb 3, 2014

Because of its pronounced spread, and the difficulties to wash it off again (in contrast to mineral oil based greases) I try to avoid silicone-oil and -grease wherever possible.

pasiasty · Feb 3, 2014

That's true, but if you follow basic rule of greasing: using as less grease as possible, you'd perhaps avoid spreading it all over the camera.

cblurton · Feb 4, 2014

I've heard Pedro's is good for this.

http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Bicycle-Chain-Lubricant-4-Ounce/dp/B000IZGF06

DREW WILEY · Feb 4, 2014

If you're planning on shooting in any kind of outdoor environment, grease is a bad idea. It captures grit and various natural abrasives, tends to
soften and get messy with temp (though you can select for temp properties). A teflon spray which leaves only dry teflon after the vehicle
has evaporated is more practical. But you'll want to test for visual properties - some of these leave a whitish film.

AgX · Feb 4, 2014

DREW WILEY said:
- some of these leave a whitish film.

I thought all would do so. (Except when waxes are used.)

TJer · Feb 4, 2014

You may want to try using a very light coat of solid natural beeswax. It's a natural dry lubricant that will last an incredibly long time and will eliminate the usual noise and gear/track play.

Lubricating focusing track

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