Robin Guymer
Allowing Ads
Thanks #Svenedin, I had previously glanced at the globe and thought it okay. Now pulled it right out and checked it under a magnifier. The blurred writing now shows it is just a 50w 12v. Unbelievable what some people do. The 100w globes are not that hard to get but previous owner has just gone to the local auto shop and bought the 50w. Talk about make life hard for oneself!I would try a new Quartz-halogen bulb (12V 100W) and just check it is set for the correct voltage. The exposure times do seem excessive.
I appreciate your offer #Molli. I wouldn't want to take your spares though. There are globes available on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Philips-...var=511577869057&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 that look like they will work okay so I shall order a couple now. Your other info is interesting regarding the connections and these are worth checking with a multimeter as to what is coming out of the transformer. I have found the wires from the globe have frayed insulation that could (or will) have been leaking current to the body.Good morning, Robin.........
If you can make use of a new ceramic holder and/or lamp, do let me know as I deliberately ordered a back up for my backups just in case anyone local had need of them. I spent a great deal of time chasing my own tail before I got a hold the items and would like to spare anyone else the hassle
Thanks #NJH, your exposure times give me some comfort that these are what is typical of these types of enlargers. No doubt I will see some improvement with a 100 watt globe.I have one of those enlargers, even with a new lamp I am seeing exposures well over a minute sometimes ( into 2 min + actually with burn ins) to get tone from the sky on very dense negatives. On normal density negatives not a problem at all. Its one of the reasons why I recently bought an el nikkor 50 f2.8 to replace my el nikkor 50 f4 such that I can use f4 if I have to and not worry so much about soft corners like the f4 lens seems to give at f5.6. Have to say this is dealing with lab developed negs that are way to dense, I don't have this issue with negs and I have developed myself.
What is 40 +40? Thanks40+40, as you have discovered gives effective neutral density, prolonged exposure times and middle contrast as expected.
Split grade printing. An 80 second exposure is split between Grades like 0 and 5. http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutoria...ing-ilford-multigrade-under-the-lens-filters/ Combine with Dodge & Burn and you've got the hardware version of PhotoShop.What is 40 +40? Thanks
There is a thread about this subject that concerns the use of LED enlarger lights with the variation in warm tones like 2700k to cold tones of 6700k. I think I read somewhere that the Osram globe (I just eBayed one) is 3500k. This probably drops away with age.The one above from Osram is exactly what I have. Another pointer is that I noticed the new lamp seems colder in tone (and of course brighter) than an old one, I wonder if it effects the "grade" of light output through the mixer.
Thanks. I had never heard of the consequences being expressed this way such as neutral density and I couldn't work out if the three consequences were inevitable nor whether they were good or badSplit grade printing. An 80 second exposure is split between Grades like 0 and 5. http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutoria...ing-ilford-multigrade-under-the-lens-filters/ Combine with Dodge & Burn and you've got the hardware version of PhotoShop.
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