LPL stainless steel tank, tight lid problem

[Herzeleid]

I have recently bought a second hand steel tank, engraving on top small lid says LPL. There are various japan and german made steel reels. 35 and 120 reels. My guess is it takes 7 35-mm reels, I was able to fit 3x120 and 1x135 reel. I calculated 200-cc for 135 and 400-cc for 120 reels. I am guessing these are quite standard so far. I haven't done any development in it yet, just cleaning it a bit and experimenting with steel reels.

It looks identical to Arista's steel tanks.

The problem is, the tank's lid is so tight. I sometimes need a screwdriver to force it. I looked at a few pictures on the internet it seems that these tanks don't have any rubber band on the lid, so I'm guessing that is ok with mine too.
There is no obvious bent neither on cap or the tank itself. The tank is not used for a few years in my opinion, it was just standing on the shelf.
Do you have similar experience with steel tanks with steel caps? Is there way to overcome it?

Thanks

 

[Rick A]

If you are referring to the small cap that covers the fill and drain, then yes. I had a single 35mm tank back in the 80's that vexed me to the point where I tossed it and replaced it with a tank that came with a plastic cap. That one didn't hold up, and has since been replaced with another all steel unit.


Rick

 

[Herzeleid]

No not the fill & drain cap, I refer to the big one that closes the tank.

 

[Whiteymorange]

I've had tanks like that. One or two of them were helped by a good abrasive cleaning around the rim, using a 3M green scrubbing pad. Others were bent ever-so-slightly an became utility canisters around the shop. I've also had some luck (some fit, some don't) in buying plastic tops for the SS cans, and though they don't last as long, the frustration saved is worth the extra cost of a new top every year or so.

 

[Anscojohn]

No not the fill & drain cap, I refer to the big one that closes the tank.

******
Yup. It can be a real pain. Rub the inside of the lid and the place where the lids goes with very fine steel wool. Then scrub both thoroughly and dry. Next put a very, very thin layer of lubricant like WD-40 on the tank part. Rub it on with your finger. That should do it. If it does not, one old trick is to take a thick rubber band and put it around the gripping area of the lid.

I solved that problem, and one other, in this manner: I cut some of the adhesive appliques used to make non-stick shower and step surface surfaces--some dark, some light-- and placed a piece the same color on both the lid and the tank. They provide a non-skid gripping surface, and also ID which lid goes to which tank.

 

[mgb74]

Are both the tank and lid engraved LPL? If not, another possibility is that the lid and tank don't match (i.e. originally from different manufacturers).

 

[Herzeleid]

Are both the tank and lid engraved LPL? If not, another possibility is that the lid and tank don't match (i.e. originally from different manufacturers).

The cap has LPL engraving the tank itself has no marking except at the bottom it says made in Japan. LPL is japan I guess at least that is what I found on the internet. Brushing direction, the surface texture is identical I think they are of same set.
But I will keep that in mind, may be they are of different brand.
thanks

 

[Anscojohn]

The cap has LPL engraving the tank itself has no marking except at the bottom it says made in Japan. LPL is japan I guess at least that is what I found on the internet. Brushing direction, the surface texture is identical I think they are of same set.
But I will keep that in mind, may be they are of different brand.
thanks

******
I have found that mixed lids and tanks leak if you can get them together. I think it is just oxidation on the surfaces which are your tank's problem. clean and lube should do it. If not, try the suggestions I made, if they are for you at all practicable.

 

[Herzeleid]

******
I have found that mixed lids and tanks leak if you can get them together. I think it is just oxidation on the surfaces which are your tank's problem. clean and lube should do it. If not, try the suggestions I made, if they are for you at all practicable.

Thanks john, I will try them. I made some testing, there was no leak. I feel like that they are of same brand. The rubber band seems to help a bit but I will need a proper one to make it consistent.

 

[bdial]

Even if they are the same brand, the fit varies, and that lid and tank may not have started life out together, assuming you obtained these used.
If either is bent, as Whitey says, its best use would be as a pencil cup. Otherwise, the suggestions should help.
In my opinion, tight is preferable to loose, at least it won't leak. If you use it a lot, the fit will probably become just right.

 

[Anscojohn]

Good points, all. What Sorry of the Heart has found with that tank is one of the curses of the ss tank systems and as bdial avers, tight is better than loose. The little ss cap can be a pain, too. I keep an implement handy to pry the little buggers off when they insist upon staying put. It may not be available in Turkey, but may be found at the local paint store or department. It is a giz for opening up paint cans. Has a little pry-point on one end and a beer bottle opener on the other. I had to grind the pry point finer so it woudl fit easily under the little cap, but it does the job when needed. The beer-bottle opener works well enough when needed. Sadly, in my experience, that part, which should serve to open 35 mm cartridges, does not work very well for me those on !@&@# factory-staked cartridges. I use a small thermonuclear device for those wretched things.