lowest shutter speed for hand held success

[David Lyga]

Do any of you have tips for acquiring tack sharp images at lower shutter speeds (no image stabilization)? The only thing that I can think of is tying a taut string to the tripod socket, extending that string to the ground, then stepping on it to cause it to 'anchor' the camera as you pull upward. Other suggestions? - David Lyga

 

[BrianShaw]

Monopod. Forget the string... it works but is fiddle and not as good as a solid monopod.

 

[hobbes]

Firm grip and central shutter (or Leica M shutter) will take care of it down to 1/8sec.

 

[Luckless]

I find it is all about good stance, good grip mechanics, good breathing, and good timing.

Think about how things could move, and position yourself to limit that movement as much as possible, and take advantage of whatever structural aids you can. Lean against a solid wall. Sit down. Whatever you can do to support the camera with as little motion as possible, without getting overly weird or unsafe.

Get the elbows tucked in close and stable. Stand comfortably, and don't get into weird angles with any part of your body that feels unstable or hard to hold.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Tuck your arms to your side and then take a deep breath. Exhale and then press the shutter release gently. The article I read said this method was good down to 1/15 sec. I have never tried it down past 1/30 sec but it does work.

Besides the mentioned tripod there are also bean or sand bags to steady the camera. Chair backs and door jams also work well.

 

[Luckless]

Also: Practice.

Mechanically this isn't all that different from long range target shooting. You do not hit a 500m bullseye the first time you pick up a rifle in most cases, and odds are you aren't doing it twice in a row even if you manage one with your first magazine.

 

[BrianShaw]

... and of course there's the time-tested option of faster film.

 

[markbarendt]

I'm with Brian, monopod.

It is simply one of the best supporting tools (pun intended) ever devised for photography.

 

[R.Gould]

I often shoot down to 1/2 second hand held with my leaf shutter rangefinders, same for my Leica 3f and Canon P, if using a SLR then a monopod is your best friend, I have shot at 1/2 sec with my Bronica and Slr's when I used to use them, it is harder to shoot at low speeds hand held with slr's due, I firmly believe, to the mirror moving

 

[Brett Rogers]

Do any of you have tips for acquiring tack sharp images at lower shutter speeds (no image stabilization)? The only thing that I can think of is tying a taut string to the tripod socket, extending that string to the ground, then stepping on it to cause it to 'anchor' the camera as you pull upward. Other suggestions? - David Lyga

If you can set the self timer of your camera for a couple of seconds this can definitely help. Simply because you can completely eliminate one potential cause of unsharp images—depressing the release at the commencement of the exposure. Granted some release systems are smoother than others. My SRTs are the best I have personally experienced. But a timer enables you to concentrate on keeping the camera as still as possible without the actuation of the shutter being a consideration.

You can of course dial in the typical ten or so second delay most timer escapements run down to. Personally I have found, perhaps counter-intuitively, that trying to stay stock still for ten seconds is a lot harder than it is for the time needed to make an exposure. But that may reflect an inability to concentrate (or lack of practice at same) on my part.
Cheers
Brett

 

[Toffle]

You don't say what kind of camera you're using; a TLR or other camera with a WLF is inherently quite stable, and I can usually manage shutter times of 1/8-1/4sec. Others claim much better results than I can attest, but they may be younger and more sturdy in their stance. I've got three or four monopods which I rarely use, but when I do, I often extend the monopod on an angle to the side so that it is less prone to lateral movement. It sort of acts like a tripod leg in that case, with my body weight leaning into the monopod, creating a stable platform for shooting. To be honest, I don't think my method is significantly better than a vertical stance, but I've gotten comfortable with it. Even with that, I would seldom shoot at any speed less than 1/4-1/2sec.

 

[ic-racer]

Do any of you have tips for acquiring tack sharp images at lower shutter speeds (no image stabilization)? The only thing that I can think of is tying a taut string to the tripod socket, extending that string to the ground, then stepping on it to cause it to 'anchor' the camera as you pull upward. Other suggestions? - David Lyga

I got some of my best 1/30 sec hand held shots with my 6008 Rolleiflex SLR, prism, hand grip and 40mm lens. The wide angle of view lessens the effects of vibrations. The huge rotational inertia around the mirror pivot axis keeps it steady, in spite of the large mirror flap. The leaf shutter itself is a non issue for vibration. The film transport motor does not kick in until after the shutter closes.

 

[Ap507b]

Adding a soft shutter release helps a lot in my experience.

 

[LAG]

If you can set the self timer of your camera for a couple of seconds...

This would be my best advice as well! ... and (1). if you're carrying a backpack and you cannot go down on your knees, put the backpack in your chest and the camera over it ... (2). if you're carrying a backpack and you cannot change it to your chest, grab firmly one of the straps on the backpack and lean your camera on your forearm the way you need ... (3). if you have the option to look awway from the eyepiece, put your camera on your shoulder and lean the camera firmly to your head

Practice makes perfect!

Best!

 

[benjiboy]

I always do what I was taught in the military when learning to fire a rifle hold it tight with your elbows tight into your body, control your breathing, take first pressure on the trigger, hold your breath and squeeze the trigger, don't snatch it.

 

[bdial]

Press the camera against a wall, tree, rock, signpost, the ground, or whatever is available and unmovable. If you can't get the angle right press you against the unmovable and brace the camera as well as you can. Using the self-timer helps.
A camera with a WLF or removable prism helps a lot as well, because the viewfinder may not be accessible, depending on where you are resting the camera.
Some of my best night-shots have been done with the camera on an improvised support.

 

[Maris]

Years ago when shooting on assignment and film and processing costs were not a consideration I could virtually guarantee sharp half-second hand-held exposures. How? Shoot a whole roll, all 36 exposures, of the same subject. One of those exposures, by luck or good management, will be the sharpest. That's the one that counts. All the others can be discarded.

 

[markbarendt]

Years ago when shooting on assignment and film and processing costs were not a consideration I could virtually guarantee sharp half-second hand-held exposures. How? Shoot a whole roll, all 36 exposures, of the same subject. One of those exposures, by luck or good management, will be the sharpest. That's the one that counts. All the others can be discarded.

Yep.

(One can sometimes do with less than 36 but the idea is good)

 

[illumiquest]

Do any of you have tips for acquiring tack sharp images at lower shutter speeds (no image stabilization)? The only thing that I can think of is tying a taut string to the tripod socket, extending that string to the ground, then stepping on it to cause it to 'anchor' the camera as you pull upward. Other suggestions? - David Lyga

Have you tried a tripod?

 

[Sirius Glass]

This question has be asked many times on APUG. It depends on the camera, how it is held and the physical condition of the photographer. But a rule of thumb the longest hand held shutter speed is 1/[lens focal length in mm] seconds. That is from MF but it works well for 35mm and hand held sheet film cameras.

 

[cb1]

I get pretty lucky with 1/15th mostly

 

[Bill Burk]

Press the camera against a wall, tree, rock, signpost, the ground, or whatever is available and unmovable. If you can't get the angle right press you against the unmovable and brace the camera as well as you can. Using the self-timer helps.

This was going to be my suggestion. And of course do not forget to focus - because you have to deal with not only camera motion blur, but focus and subject motion blur too.

I was struck by a few prints at the Diane Arbus show, many of her high fashion and tranvestite subjects would be blurred but the print is still successful because of her vision.
There was one that stood out for me though, I think the subject "got" what Diane was trying to do and cooperated by freezing perfectly still. A graceful and clear, crisp photograph. Good show to see what handheld in available light is all about.

 

[removed account4]

45 seconds
keep your arms rigid, exhale and depress shutter ... lean against a tree

 

[mshchem]

Leica, no vibration, I HAD a M6 ttl . When I was young and steady I could shoot at 15th w/50mm f 2. Digital makes hand held low light capture child's play But Tri-X at 800 with a Leica is real. Boy I wish I still had that camera.

 

[Bill Burk]

A mechanical speed is safer for low shutter speeds because you can anticipate the time. In automatic the camera may select the correct time for exposure but if you don't know how long to hold still, when the shutter is open and closed, you may blur the shot.
Also, even on tripod you can blur a shot with careless firing. Even though shake may be a fraction of total exposure time ... the highlights will blur immediately.