Do you mean the springs that hold the back in place? I think they are tight so the back does not pop out inadvertently during transport or while folded. After releasing the springs, the 4 rods should freely move in and out. Is that the case?
Depends on how far in you want to go. Ideally, you disassemble and take metal polish to parts to clean off surface dirt and corrosion. Be sure to clean the inside surface of bearings and slide barrels, also, like where the extension slides slide through.
I see the home-made strap (I suspect from the previous owner) and now that you are fixing the camera for your own use, you might consider a new strap. There are a couple options out there. I couldn't use mine without the strap. I use it like a handle.
Rear tilt of the front standard is not commonly used, unless taking pictures of ceilings, though it is useful if you want to make this type of picture. In that case, as I think you have realized, you can lift out the back of the camera and pull the rear upward.
If a spring tab is too tight, you can reshape the spring metal. After cleaning and light lube, if it still too tight loosen the spring a bit. Now this is where touch and experience come into play. You can feel metal move from simply bending to being reshaped after some experience. But going too far is easy to do. Or reshape the latch catch?
Any thoughts on where to look for one?.
Rear tilt of the front standard is not commonly used, unless taking pictures of ceilings, though it is useful if you want to make this type of picture. In that case, as I think you have realized, you can lift out the back of the camera and pull the rear upward.
Put a little Ballistol gun oil on these rods and gently move them in and out, then remove the eventual excess of that oil, repeat if necessary, and it will slide like the bolt action of a rifle...
I use this method on the vertical rods of my Linhof Kardan GT. Ballistol solves sticky grease and -dirt too, but it stays not oily, it penetrates in the surface structure of the metal and doesn't get gummy.
Good point.The rear tilt is meant to clear the bed away from wide angle lenses. If you look at the side strut in the first photo, you can make out that the strut continues past the body pin and has a second notch near its end. The other side strut will have the same thing- two notches. If you let the bed drop and engage the second notch, a wide angle lens will not have part of the image clippped by the bed. The drop of the bed and the reverse tilt on the lens standard are matched so that the lens returns to parallel to the film plane.You can then raise and lower the lens to get it into the center or for other effects (I have no idea if it has enough front rise to be useful for typical front rise purposes on a view camera).
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