The RHDesigns 'StopClockII is the best darkroom timer there is and it does f-stop timing too!I currently have a Time-O-Lite professional which works fine, but is a little limiting. It can be a bit imprecise when it comes to short exposure times (under 5 seconds) or for fine tuning exposure times by a second or two. The maximum time of 60 seconds can also be limiting with slower papers or bigger enlargement (circumvented by running the timer multiple times). I do like that it has a plug for my safe lights and will shut them off when focusing or running the enlarger.
I'm ideally looking for something that will have better fine controls and will allow for exposure times longer than 60 seconds. It must retain the function of shutting off my safelights when the enlarger light is on. I would also want a timer that beeps or makes a sound to indicate the passing of each second (for dodging and burning). I am aware of a few digital timers that meet these needs, but I am skeptical of there longevity after receiving and returning an digital timer with corroded buttons.
A timer I was eyeing is the Beseler 8177, but it is hard to find any information about these.
Looking for some recommendations and feedback on this topic since there are so many options to choose from.
Generically, many, if not most timers will have secondary sockets for turning a safelight on and off, though I may be in a bit of a minority in not finding that useful.
That is exactly the reason.Why is turning off the safelight during exposure useful? The only reason I can think of is that you might be able to see the image better, helping with dodging/burning. Is there any other reason? Conserve electricity?
Purist.Footswitch and metronome
That makes sense. Thanks. I think I can add an outlet and internal circuitry to my home-made LED timer/controller.That is exactly the reason.
When you focus the (high magnification) image, or need to dodge or burn, it can make a big difference.
Especially if you are working with a relatively low output enlarger, or doing a high contrast, mostly magenta/blue burn.
If I had to print without a foot switch, I might just give it up. But I've wired musician-type switches into timers, they're like fifteen bucks.And don't forget the foot-switch. Having both hands ready for accurate burning and dodging movements means shorter exposures can be used; more prints less time.
Watch out for weird (from our perspective) out of production UK and European connectors.But I've wired musician-type switches into timers, they're like fifteen bucks.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?