There seems to be quite a bit of LF equipment for sale in Japan.
Does anybody have any idea how much any customs charges might be to bring something into the US?
When I was on a bicycle trip for 6 months in New Zealand with a 4x5, I packed it up safely for any move over a significant distance. I was already on a re-do trip after a previous photographic disaster to NZ, so protecting the camera was a very high priority. This was before the internet, I could not have gotten on the web and asked who had a spare 4x5 in NZ. The camera was 2.5 pounds with the 150mm lens on it. The pod/head (Gitzo Studex 300/Ballhead No.2) was about 7 to 7.5 pounds. The 5x7 goes of the same pod now with a Gitzo 1376 head. It's been working nicely (the pod/head is an 8.5 pound package). Strong enough pod that one can lean one it and travel rough ground without worrying about it. I can't close one leg completely easily since it got dented on the flight to Chile -- might drill the dent out.
When photographing relatively locally (western US), the 4x5 or 5x7 usually gets carried on the pod, ready to use. A friend once mentioned that with changing light, it is economically better to have the camera on the pod and ready to go. Otherwise one could easily miss several images (in the time it takes to get the camera out of a pack, etc) which might easily be sold for the worth of the camera several times over, or at least pay for the trip, so to speak. (And there is always insurance.)
I find it harder to compose looking upside down. Of course, I've only been at it for 1 1.2 years with a 4x5. Our brains are designed to see straight up so our aesthetics woks best that way too. Of course, when I pick a scene I'm just looking with just my eyes. So the mechanics of setting up a view camera upside down afterward might not matter. The scene was already selected. It's just framing it upsidedown that has to happen.The OP mentioned 75mm in one reply. That puts quite a limit on some of the "classic" starter cameras does it not?
If we're talking any serious hiking with gear, I find one of the biggest weight savings is in tripods. I finally sourced a used Gitzo that gets to my chin height without center column and is only 3 leg sections. I think its weighs half of my Aluminum Bogen/Manfrotto. It wasn't cheap, but I didn't pay full retail, and that weight savings could be put to hiking with a Linhof vs. Hiking with a modern lightweight field camera if a person desired.
the first 4x5 I owned was a sorry looking speed graphic with a 127mm Ektar. There are no negatives from it that I would print today, but it helped me learn. In college I was able to "check out" a Tachihara wood field which allowed me to learn movements.
Whatever you get, familiarize yourself with it before you start burning through film. Set it up in the house/yard/office, where ever you can and try and focus different things. Upside down and backwards can be strange the first few times.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
@Deke4774 (the original poster)
Since this is now an old thread, you have probably made a decision. Please update us.
I am new to the forum and shot 4x5 studio (Calumet) 45 yrs ago and am returning to 4x5, still using the Calumet. I am interested in a 4x5 field camera. My 1st choice at this point is the Chamonix 45F2, but it is basically impossible to get with out getting on a wait list and hoping ya can get it 6 months or so. The camera is well constructed and rigid with smooth movements and asymmetrical rear standard movements, so I have read. Anyone have any imput, comments and have one to sell, Ha Ha Thanks for your thoughts.
I knew it was a mistake to look for advice on this forum. It cost me so much money.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?