Looking for CHEAP "toy" camera recommendation for inside low-light (no flash allowed)

[Eggvillan]

I'm heading to a Halloween event at a venue that does not allow SLRs and does not allow the use of a flash. I want to grab a cheap point and shoot. To accommodate for the low light, i was planning to either load it with Ilford Delta 3200 or with Tri-X 400 (which i will push-process). I have experience pushing Tri-X to 1600 with good results, but no experience with Ilford Delta.

Can anyone recommend a cheap ($50 or less) camera? Ideally, i'd like something with a slow shutter speed (for use in low-light). I also need the ability to deactivate the shot, even when the camera thinks its too dark.

I'm not looking to make fine art prints.... i just want to have some fun and be able to bring an analog camera with me.

thanks!

 

[Cholentpot]

I use a Minolta AF-Tele that I found for $5 in a thrift store. I don't know how slow it goes but it was cheap and takes decent photos. I don't really care about how it gets smashed or knocked around.

 

[blockend]

The world is awash with 35mm compacts for cheaps. The fun will be finding ones that go to 1600 or 3200 ASA. Some do, lots don't.

 

[Svenedin]

I’ve pushed Delta 3200 another 2 stops with success using DD-X. The trouble is you are unlikely to find a camera where you can set the EI to 12,500. If the camera has manual options you can meter with a separate meter (or even an iPhone app).

 

[Wallendo]

For the purposes of a Halloween event, an all manual compact, or mostly manual, camera may be preferable to an all-automatic camera. On many cheap automatic cameras, when the flash is turned off, you may find the camera will use very long shutter times which will produce poor images. For this type of shooting, I would use an Olympus 35RC set to 1/30s and f2.8 with TX400. You would have to use the rangefinder to focus, however. There are similar cameras out there, but this is the one with which I am familiar.

Another option is to get a cheap fixed focus, fixed aperture, fixed shutter speed camera and shoot Delta 3200 and hope for the best.

 

[xya]

olmpus mju II, you'll have to remember to turn the flash off at start, it's just one push on the button. it gets focus right even in low light, ISO 3200, shutter up to 4 sec., 1:2.8 lens. otherwise have a look at my website about conmpact cameras http://www.135compact.com/

happy shooting!

 

[ciniframe]

The problem is most modern (from the late 70's forward) compact 35mm cameras do not have manual, they are auto only. That's no good for your purpose, you need manual control of shutter speed and aperture and focus. You will wind up shooting at f2.8 @ 1/30 perhaps, might need to go to 1/15 or 1/8 @ f2.8 of the light is really stinky. Might want to look into a Canon QL17 with a 40mm f1.7 lens if it's working on manual. Forget the meter. The light might be so contrasty that a meter would read it for the wrong area anyway. Your $50 limit narrows your choices down a lot but you can sometimes find some old manual leaf shutter 35mm if you know how to check to see if it's working right.

 

[pentaxuser]

olmpus mju II, you'll have to remember to turn the flash off at start, it's just one push on the button. it gets focus right even in low light, ISO 3200, shutter up to 4 sec., 1:2.8 lens. otherwise have a look at my website about conmpact cameras http://www.135compact.com/

happy shooting!

Yes but isn't it one push on the button each time before the shot? It is the major drawback with this camera You may have meant this but the OP might think that one push and the flash is off until you push to restore it

pentaxuser

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Olympus Trip 35. Set to f2.8 it will take it at slow speed if light is low. I recommend HP5+ @3200, instead of Delta 3200.

HP5+ @3200 hcA.

 

[blockend]

Yes but isn't it one push on the button each time before the shot? It is the major drawback with this camera You may have meant this but the OP might think that one push and the flash is off until you push to restore it

pentaxuser

IIRC it's two pushes of the button, and it stays that way as long as the camera is open. Close it and you're back to square one. Can't remember if it goes to sleep after a while or not. the MjuII is a good camera, but not for that job.

 

[xya]

IIRC it's two pushes of the button, and it stays that way as long as the camera is open. Close it and you're back to square one. Can't remember if it goes to sleep after a while or not. the MjuII is a good camera, but not for that job.

you are right, it's 2 pushes, red eye comes first and then flash off. if you leave the camera open, it goes to sleep after 5 minutes, but it comes back if you touch the shutter button (at least on mine). battery life is not a problem on mine.

if I understand the OP, it's one event to photograph. so this should not be a problem with the mju II, flash off and leave it open. I don't know how much experience the OP has as a photographer. I am a photographer for decades and I do a lot of street work. of course I am able to shoot decent results with nearly any kind of camera. but if I want easy shooting, I take autofocus cameras. I do have a ricoh GR1 which remembers the settings, but it's out of the OP's budget and I have an entirely manual contax T which might be better and out of budget as well. but even the bigger rangefinder of the contax doesn't really work in low light. so a completely manual camera might no be the solution unless the OP can live with random results (which might be fun).

 

[blockend]

I am a photographer for decades and I do a lot of street work. of course I am able to shoot decent results with nearly any kind of camera. but if I want easy shooting, I take autofocus cameras.

I'm not so sure. Some compact AF systems are better than others, but because tracking is poor and people are generally moving, I find myself focusing on the pavement and re-framing with my finger on the shutter locking focus. That risks pressing too hard and taking a shot, or too softly and losing focus. Generally speaking I prefer zone focus or manual focus cameras for street photography.

 

[ic-racer]

Point and shoot cameras don't usually provide adequate exposure for hand-held indoor photography; that is why they almost always come with a flash. High speed film won't help because the exposure meter either won't calibrate to the high speed, or the EV is too low for the electronic circuit. Sure you can use manual metering, but then what is the point of a "point and shoot" camera. I'd just use any non-point and shoot camera with a 1.4 lens and adjustable shutter speed or a point-and-shoot SLR with a 1.4 lens. For example Nikon N55 body can be had for less than $50.

 

[Paul Manuell]

I'm heading to a Halloween event at a venue that does not allow SLRs and does not allow the use of a flash. I want to grab a cheap point and shoot. To accommodate for the low light, i was planning to either load it with Ilford Delta 3200 or with Tri-X 400 (which i will push-process). I have experience pushing Tri-X to 1600 with good results, but no experience with Ilford Delta.

Can anyone recommend a cheap ($50 or less) camera? Ideally, i'd like something with a slow shutter speed (for use in low-light). I also need the ability to deactivate the shot, even when the camera thinks its too dark.

I'm not looking to make fine art prints.... i just want to have some fun and be able to bring an analog camera with me.

thanks!

I did a night time shoot with Delta 3200. It was amazing being able to shoot just using street lights for illumination, but the photos were understandably and obviously very grainy, and that was with 645 medium format, so the grain will be even more noticeable with 35mm (assuming any given print size from both formats for comparison).

Out of interest, how come SLRs aren't allowed but compacts are? Surely an SLR with just a 28, 35 or 50mm lens is no more intrusive. Well, assuming the lens is a standard SLR type, not one of the new Sigma Art type behemoths.

 

[Ces1um]

I'm heading to a Halloween event at a venue that does not allow SLRs and does not allow the use of a flash. I want to grab a cheap point and shoot. To accommodate for the low light, i was planning to either load it with Ilford Delta 3200 or with Tri-X 400 (which i will push-process). I have experience pushing Tri-X to 1600 with good results, but no experience with Ilford Delta.

Can anyone recommend a cheap ($50 or less) camera? Ideally, i'd like something with a slow shutter speed (for use in low-light). I also need the ability to deactivate the shot, even when the camera thinks its too dark.

I'm not looking to make fine art prints.... i just want to have some fun and be able to bring an analog camera with me.

thanks!

Lomo lc-a off of ebay. Point and shoot. Zone focused though, which isn't difficult to master. Cheap as dirt (but admittedly they are going up in price on ebay). Very small and concealable. I'm not sure of their highest iso setting though. It may stop at 1600. Put the camera on a table or hold it against a wall/column to steady it as the shutter speeds could be very long without a flash.

 

[xya]

Lomo lc-a off of ebay. Point and shoot. Zone focused though, which isn't difficult to master. Cheap as dirt (but admittedly they are going up in price on ebay). Very small and concealable. I'm not sure of their highest iso setting though. It may stop at 1600. Put the camera on a table or hold it against a wall/column to steady it as the shutter speeds could be very long without a flash.

the lc-a (russian) is only 400 ISO. they go for less than the lc-a+, the remake, which is 1600 ISO max. lc-a+ are quite expensive and are prone to failing shutter buttons.

 

[Ces1um]

the lc-a (russian) is only 400 ISO. they go for less than the lc-a+, the remake, which is 1600 ISO max. lc-a+ are quite expensive and are prone to failing shutter buttons.

400 iso? That is much lower than my lc-a+. forget that one then.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Yashica Lynx 14e . The lens is a big honking 50mm f1.4, so you'll have plenty of light-gathering power. No built-in flash, so that's not a problem.