Looking for a tripod for my MAMIYA 645E

Hello everyone, I'm looking for a portable, durable tripod for my Mamiya 645E. This camera has a plastic body and isn't all that heavy without the grip, but I would like to keep collecting medium formats (i.e RZ/B67 or a Zenza Bronica). I want to be able to take my camera out at night and shoot long exposures. I don't know much about tripods, but I think I need a tripod and a tripod head for the camera to sit on top of, right? My max budget is under $400 for the tripod and head. Any suggestions?

Thank you.

Surprised you haven't gotten a bazillion recommendations by now. Lots of good options and many well under $400.

I like the Tiltall as a good 35mm to MF tripod that isn't too heavy/bulky. Maybe stretching it for an RB. But plenty of Manfrottos would fit the bill. I also have a Manfrotto (was Bogen then) 3021 with a 3 way head that I like. I think it's the Manfrotto 055 now.

Manfrottos offer a lot for the money IMO. You generally buy the legs separate from the head, but also sold as combination. Of course, you can often find used, but expensive to ship.

Aluminum tripods less expensive than carbon fiber, but will transmit vibration a bit more if on a hard surface (say taking photos from a bridge). Unless you get a really good one, I'd shy away from a ballhead. A quck release head is nice to have. The lenses you plan to use play a factor; the more glass out in front the more strain on the head.

Check out KEH for used ones, especially when they have a % off sale.

You are wise to budget adequately for a tripod. Most of the Big Box 'pods I've seen look inadequate, especially for a medium format camera.
I have a Manfrotto 3001 tripod with their pan-tilt head- I can't remember the model number. It has separate handles for pan,tilt, and accommodates a quick release plate. The plate system is really desirable, makes mounting the camera quick. Plus my Pentax 645n has two tripod sockets, one for horizontal and one for vertical orientation. This means that the image is pretty much unchanged when switching, and also prevents unbalancing the whole rig. I also have a Bronica 2a, a really heavy box; the Manfrotto seems up to the task. Remember that extending the column makes vibration somewhat more likely, thus the height of the tripod with no extension is a consideration, unless you have waist level finder or a right angle finder as does my Pentax.
Another consideration: the ability to set the legs to different angles aids in setting up on uneven surfaces. Tripods with a triangular bracing system between the legs and the central column would make uneven setup more difficult.

The 645E will need to rotate from horizontal to vertical. An RZ/RB67 won't. For that reason, you may prefer different heads on your tripod or different tripods for different cameras.
Or maybe you won't.
I use a fairly heavy, quite old set of Bogen/Manfrotto legs with a Manfrotto 054 ballhead and Manfrotto architectural quick connect plates for both my (recently sold ) RB67 and my Mamiya 645 Pro.
Ballheads have advantages and disadvantages. They may suit you, or you may find a head with separate axis controls more to your liking.
I definitely recommend addressing the head and the legs separately. I my case, I'd rather go for heavy legs and a more robust head than spend extra money on something like carbon fibre legs, but that is my preference, not necessarily yours.

You might want to check out the Leofoto line of CF tripods and ballheads. Relatively inexpensive, sturdy and available on *mazon.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you tend to use the WLF then your tripod doesn't need to be as high. I use an Aluminium manfrotto 055 (various incarnations are available with minor variations) for my Mamiya TLRs and RB67 as well as 35mm work. It's a good compromise of size, cost and weight. I've been through a lot of ball heads and to be honest I've come back to a pan and tilt, but each to their own, it's a very personal thing. Quick release can be good, but if you use things like focussing rails or a paramender (weird thing for parallax correction with mamiya tlrs) then they are a pain as you have to undo the quick release from the camera, then attach it to the bottom of the accessory. For this reason I've just gone back to a normal screw fitting on the head. I'm never in that much of a hurry that it saves me time.

xtolsniffer said:

One thing to keep in mind is that if you tend to use the WLF then your tripod doesn't need to be as high.

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The 645E has a fixed, built in eye-level penta-mirror finder.
If you try to use it at waist-level, you will be disappointed!
On the subject of quick release plates, if you have other cameras it is important that you pick a system that works conveniently with all your cameras.
I have extra plates - one is always mounted in the tripod, and one is always in each bag with each camera.

I use Induro carbon fiber tripods and heads for my Hasselblads. https://www.indurogear.com/

Look on eBay. Used tripods in great condition are cheaper than new ones. You will get scratches on it soon enough anyway.

Decide what kind of head you want first. Some prefer pan/tilt heads and some prefer ball heads. If you want light weight for hiking then you can't beat carbon fiber. Otherwise aluminum or wood is fine. Aluminum does hold the cold in winter though.

Alan Gales said:

Look on eBay. Used tripods in great condition are cheaper than new ones. You will get scratches on it soon enough anyway.

Decide what kind of head you want first. Some prefer pan/tilt heads and some prefer ball heads. If you want light weight for hiking then you can't beat carbon fiber. Otherwise aluminum or wood is fine. Aluminum does hold the cold in winter though.

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As far as cold aluminum, check with Lowe's or Home Depot for closed foam pipe insulation. This insulation is split lengthwise, comes in various diameters, and can easily be installed and removed.

GRHazelton said:

As far as cold aluminum, check with Lowe's or Home Depot for closed foam pipe insulation. This insulation is split lengthwise, comes in various diameters, and can easily be installed and removed.

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Or bicycle handlebar tape. The cork tape insulates well and doesn't add much bulk. Use electrical tape to wrap ends for keeping in place.

^^^It's what I've used.

How important is weight to you? I have tried many tripods, some more lightweight than other and ended up with a light setup that I can carry up mountains if needed, but not an "ultralight" tripod:

Acratex 1160 Tilt Head - Extremely stable and in my opinion much easier to adjust than a typical ball head
Leofoto LS-284CEX - Thick carbon fibre composite tripod without a wobbly centre column

If you buy used, these should be well within your budget. I believe new you'd be pushing it. For me, that is the perfect compromise of weight and stability.

I'm going to do what I have been doing each time the question of a tripod for small, medium format, and even 4x5" press cameras comes up, which is to recommend you get an Aluminum Gitzo Reporter, the Reporter Perfomance Gilux, with three leg sections, tiped with half-hemisphere hard rubber feet and and, a two section center post, with the Gitzo Ball head, without a arms.

20.5 inches to top of legs and another 4.5 in. to the unraised ball platform, about 50 in. extended straight up and 45 in. to top of the simple twist lock/unlocked legs in the typical spread.

Add in the additional 4.5 in ball head and you've got 50 in. to the top of the Ball head platform, before you raise the two-piece center column to 59 in. and 72.5 in., which is higher than I would use it in a heavy wind situation, but with the same careful use as you would use with a good camera, will work.

At, full locked spread, unraised center column, I'm measuring 27.5 in. to top of ball head platform, though you will have some spring to weigh down with a sandbag or camera bag.

With only the middle section legs recessed, 21 in.to the top of the ball head, with the center post still no raised.

At the widest locked spread, leg extensions all in, and the center post touching the floor, raised about 40%, its about 19 in. and if you can get a shorter, center post of about 8 - 10 in, I conjure at about 16 in.tall, with no center raised.

The center column is reversible and I suppose I should get to looking for a 90 degree arm to mount a head to, for 'bellows + macro lens' photography. or simply photographing the insides of curb sewer grates..., what you do is your own concern;-)

I have used this with both all metal SLR Canons, etc, some with motor drives, a small digital and my Speed Graphic and now, my Hasselblad CM with a 'doubler' and 250 CFi lens
without concern, in medium and light winds, and this tripod has three 'S' hooks on a wire around the underside of the legs, center-post fixture for hanging sand bags or camera bags tightly adjusted so there is no play in the tripod or bag which holds it firmly anchored to the ground.



Yes it is aluminum and has some weight a carbon frame just will no have, but unless you toss it at a gator, instead of your assistant, and he eats it, you'll have a small, fully functioning tripod for the rest of your life, but i urge you to consider just how well you'd do with a new assistant, first.

Eli