Any good field camera is a compromise. Your task is to be clear on what you need/want so you can choose the camera with the right combination of compromises to give you the features you need.
Some thoughts: Some field cameras are bigger and weigh more. They have interchangeable bellows, longer bellows draw, lots of movements, some are made of metal and are "bulletproof," etc. Some field cameras are small and light. They usually have shorter bellows fewer movement possibilities, possibly less "secure" adjustments, etc. The question here is: Where and how are you going to carry your camera? If a long way in a backpack, then you'd better go for the small and light variety. If, like Edward Weston, nothing is photogenic if it's more than 100 yards from the car, then go big. For me, the Wisner Zone VI cameras, though nice, are too big and heavy. I carry a Wista DX or a Horseman Woodman in the field, both bare-bones and light (approx. 3 lbs+). If I were buying new, I'd look at the Chamonix, a new Wista DX, maybe the Shen Hao or the Tachi.
Another consideration: Which movements do you need, really? I decided long ago that I didn't want to live without shift on my field cameras. Front or back, either is okay, but it's just too inconvenient to do the "point and swing" thing every time I need a half-inch of shift. That said, I don't mind pointing and tilting/swinging for extra rise and shift if I have to, so I can live with a smaller camera with "limited" movements in the field and compensate with other techniques. Like Ralph said, usually lens coverage is the limiting factor. This is especially true if you use lightweight, smaller lenses, which usually have less coverage.
Also, field cameras by nature have problems at either end of the bellows draw. That means, the bellows bind with shorter lenses, not allowing full movements and that they are usually too short for longer lenses. You can get around some of this with recessed and extended lens boards (with these, I can use a 75mm and a 300mm on my Wista DX). Heavier, more expensive field cameras often have longer and/or interchangeable bellows. But this is more to carry. So, another question: How long/short do you want your lens kit to be and what kind of movements do you "need" from the short extreme?
You need a tool that will do the job for you 95% of the time. With any camera, there will always be a time when it will not do what you want it to. Sometimes no camera will.
Remember, too, the simplest tools require the most skill. With simpler cameras, you will need more technique as regards to movements (e.g., dealing with base tilts, pointing and tilting/swinging to get extra rise/shift, etc.). Mastering these techniques will save you weight. Getting the photo you want is less about the equipment and more about the know-how. However, there are those who just can't live without asymmetrical swings, rear and front standard focusing, axis tilts and a bag bellows.
Finally, what else might you use your "field" camera for? I routinely do architecturals with mine, so good spirit levels are indispensable, as is a gridded ground glass. Close ups? both front and rear focus would be nice if you plan on doing this a lot. It would save a lot of inching your tripod back and forth (which, however, works fine for the occasional close-up, just takes more time).
Once you've considered the above (and probably a lot more I've left out), you'll be in a better position to choose the tool for you.
Best and good luck,
Doremus Scudder
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