Looking For a 105 mm Lens Hood

jeffzeitlin

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I posted in WTB - but anyone who can lead me to a source of a reasonably priced 105 mmm lens hood would be apprecIATED.
 
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jeffzeitlin

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I too am looking for an APO Symmar 300 mm. B&H has them but expensive - $100 + depending on the model. I am thinking of making a sun shield much like the one you use with an Ebony camera.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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There are some reasonably well made metal hoods available from Chinese sources on eBay. The finish isn't quite to Heliopan or B+W standards, but they are certainly servicable, and some are made with front threads, so you can stack of them. The eBay seller I've used for these is "heavystar".

I've also bought some from an Indian source, and the threads were a bit rough--I wouldn't buy them again--but I think that's where I got a pair of stacking 105mm tele hoods for my 500mm Tele-Xenar, if heavystar doesn't have them that large.
 

epatsellis

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Maybe I'm missing something, but unless you aren't using any movements, you will never be able to properly shade without a compendium or similar adjustable shade.

Personally, I use a Sinar and either the jointed rod and bellows or an additional standard and bellows for shading.
 
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I found a like new 105mm Lee filter adapter and use my wide angle or conventional Lee compendium that takes the 4x4" colored filters. The 105mm adapter is a smaller than the full 105mm it connects to (maybe 95mm) but when I checked the coverage on the lenses that use this and it was absolutely no problem. My 35" Red Dot and my 30" Doctor Apo Germinar at full movement on 11x14 have ample coverage so it is not the least bit concerning. Lens hoods have limited capability in the fact that they have a fixed length and flare angle. They are a problem for me on anything wide since the wide angle lens hoods have no length to them. The Lee wide angle compendium is pretty cool and it extends as does the regular compendium. Plus I can use the system with or without screw in filters. Whatever works.
 

CBG

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The least expensive way is to shade the lens with the darkslide. Costs you nothing. Up a step in cost is to jury rig a sunshade with a adjustable hinge onto a step up ring with maybe some epoxy or whatever to connect the pieces. The lee hoods are truly wonderful and more expensive yet. The lee hoods are sold as a way to deal with big filters and grad filters etc, but the real value to me is the hood which is top of the line.
 

Ralph Javins

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David A. Goldfarb

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Ralph Javins

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Good morning, David;

I do not know how you did it, but it works. Thank you. The link you provided went right to it; all 1,509 items they have for sale.

I had tried it as "heavystar," "heavy star," "Heavystar," "Heavy Star," in their listing for sellers, but it kept saying, "Not Found."

There are some interesting things in there. I will need more time to go through all of them.

Again, thank you for the link.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Here is a 105mm metal tele hood from a seller I have bought from before and is trustworthy

105mm hood

Hope this helps...

That's the one that I have two of, made in India, and it's 105mm filter diameter front (female) and back (male), so it screws into a lens that takes 105mm filters and can stack. It's a "tele" hood, because it's longer than what the manufacturer offers as a "normal" or a "wide" hood in that diameter, of course the length of the hood you need depends on the lens and the format, so it may be too long for your use. I used it on a 500mm lens for 6x6, so I needed to stack two of them.
 
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jeffzeitlin

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Thanks all - so the recommended items is a screw in with a 105 mm diameter and metal. It is tele, but I can cut it down to meet my needs. Anyone got and idea if the length will work on a 300 mm Symmar?
 

David A. Goldfarb

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On 8x10" it would probably be too long, on 5x7" or 4x5" it should be fine and give you some room for movements. Of course a compendium shade is more versatile on a view camera, but sometimes a solid shade is more practical.

Over on the lfphoto.info forum a while back Robert Zeichner I think posted instructions for making a barndoor lens shade, which is very compact for the field and a very effective shade.
 
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jeffzeitlin

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Thanks for all the information.
How long should it be or how much should I shorten it for an 8x10?
Thanks
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Hard to say without knowing the image circle of the lens and movements available on the camera. I usually just try to determine such things empirically by making a temporary shade out of paper that I can slide in and out around the front cell of the lens, applying camera movements, and seeing how long it can be before it vignettes, checking through the cut corners of the groundglass to see if I can see the shade, or for cameras without a groundglass with cut corners, sighting the other way through the lens and seeing if the corners of the groundglass are obstructed by the shade.

Of course if you make it short enough to allow full movements, you won't cut off all the non-image light that can reduce contrast or cause bellows flare, but for that it's easier to use a compendium shade or have a few shades of different lengths or a three-position rubber zoom shade, but I'm not sure that last option is available in 105mm (Hama makes rubber zoom shades).
 
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