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Long lasting developers

thisismyname09

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I don't really shoot enough film to use all the developer I make. I really hate dumping unused stuff down the drain, so I'm looking for ways to preserve my developers as much as possible. I know of various formulas that contain triethanolamine for this reason. However, TEA is a rather strong base. Are there any other liquids or alcohols that won't oxidize the developer like water, but also won't severely alter the alkalinity of the developer?

Are there any other ways to preserve developers aside from their composition, such as putting the bottle in the refrigerator or something?
 
I found out in my testing that putting XTOL to a refrigerator reduced the speed of oxidizing greatly. That is probably true for any developer, since most chemical reactions slow down in cool. Too cold may cause unwanted precipitation, however.

And you probably know that squeezing all the air out of the bottle is important.
 
Glycol - PF uses it to package Pyrocat and I have had no issues with longevity. MONTHS AND MONTHS I cannot attest to years - of course some standard stuff like Kodak HC 110 can last years so I am told.

RB
 
I've found that mt 2 ltr. soda bottles work very well. The plastic doesn't react to photo chemicals and the caps provides a tight seal over & over,again & again. Can't beat the price of them either!

I've got ID-11/D-76 2 yrs. old & still works just fine.

You could also use other size bottles but I find that the type of plastic & the cap sealing method determines life. Some H20 bottles don't have a cap that seals like a soda bottle.

Hope this helps you.
 
So don´t make so much,if you use liquid developers try rodinal it lasts for ever.
If you use a powder then get some scales and you can weigh the stuf to make as much as you need
ie: Ilfords ID11 comes in powder to make 1Lt and part A weighs 7.2 grams and part B weighs 110.5 grams
so to make ½Lt you need only 3.6grams of part A and 55.2 grams of part B and the rest you can keep.
As long as it´s keep dry.

And please do NOT dump it down the drain!!!!
 
Kodak HC-110, Rodinal and PMK all last nearly indefinitely as stock solutions (the syrup in the case of HC-110). I understand that Pyrocat mixed in glycol lasts a very long time too although I've never used it thus.

Another option is to get bulk ingredients and to make your own chemicals from scratch in the volume you wish. The powdered individual chemicals last a very, very long time, certainly years (the only major exception is glycin which is rarely used).
 
"And please do NOT dump it down the drain!!!!"


Photography chemicals are pretty innocent compared to some of the ones we use in our daily lives.
 
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No wonder the planet is in the state its in with that I´m all right Jake attitude.
I wouldn`t drink it and I would not ask anyone else to either...
 
Very long lasting developers:

Rodinal > 10 years, suitable for slow and medium speed films.
HC-110 years, and also suitable for higher speed films.
Diafine 1 1/2 years 2-bath developer A+B with a high capacity and suitable for push processing.
Further Diafine is temperature independent in a wide range.
 
Is Ilford DD-X any good long term? Price combined with unknown keepability has always kept me from trying it. (Though I've read that Microphen is nearly the same thing. True?)
 
Dear thisismyname09,

"I don't really shoot enough film..."

The issue isn't developer life, it's film use. ;>)

Neal Wydra
 
Store your mixed developer of choice in one liter soda bottles. Use the dark green ones and keep them in a dark cupboard until neded. You can even use the smaller 12 or 16oz ones if you want. I dont see the need to buy exotic chems when standards will keep if stored properly.
 
sandermarijn said:
Is Ilford DD-X any good long term? Price combined with unknown keepability has always kept me from trying it. (Though I've read that Microphen is nearly the same thing. True?)
Click to expand...

Depends what you mean by long term but I have kept it for a year by pouring it into a wine bag so no air gets in as you dispense the liquid.

At 1+4 this is 50mls per film in my Jobo tank so 20 films. Can you get through 20 films in a year?

It is expensive but does a good job, especially for Ilford Delta film and D3200in particular.

pentaxuser
 
It is expensive but does a good job, especially for Ilford Delta film and D3200in particular
Click to expand...

At the time it has been made for the higher speed Delta films.

About expensive: A developer price is in fact a fraction what you spent compared with film and camera equipment.
Failing or partial failing of the developer (due to oxidation) is the most frustrating part when developing your films. There are different ways to have fresh developer.
1) Make it your own (from raw material) in the right necessary volume.
2) Buy a longlife type developer (see above)
3) Just mix the package put an expiration date on it and simply dump it when it's over time. (Certainly recommended for e.g. Xtol)

Depending of type films you can also have a mix of above points.
And long life is different for people in film use. It depends of course on your work flow.


Greetz,

and have a nice Eastern week end,

Robert
 
i use ansco 130 and it lasts for over a year in a stock bottle.
i either dilute it 1:5 for film, or i mix caffenol C on the spot and add some ansco 130 to it ...
i also use it as a print developer ( a130 ) and it is said to last for 30days
in open trays ..
 
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Here's my vote for a super versatile, long lasting developer...

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Reinhold

www.classicBWphoto.com
 
Generally developers mixed from A+B stock solutions are the longest lasting-IME PCAT HD can easily last 2 years, though Rodinal can go on even longer.
 
D-76 seems to hold fairly well.
 
TEA is an organic solvent that only becomes basic when mixed with water. The PC-TEA formula that I originated has no water in the stock solution. When the stock is diluted 1 + 50 or so for use, the pH is no higher than that of D-76. Propylene glycol is another organic solvent that can be used to make very stable stock solutions. It is not basic, and thus must be diluted with a basic solution. Sandy King's staining Pyrocat series of developers are long lived as water based concentrates and even longer lived when propylene glycol is used as solvent for the part A.
 
I use Rodinal and PC-TEA, in part because they last so long.

I usually make a 1 litre batch of PC-TEA, and store in 250ml dark glass bottles. It seems to last really well, even opened. When opened, it will, like Rodinal, get darker with age. The unopened bottles, when first opened, are the same pale straw colour as the day they were mixed.

As for Diafine, neither of my batches has lasted more than 18 months for some reason. In both cases I got one roll of slightly "mushy" results, then the next roll was blank.
 
"No wonder the planet is in the state its in with that I´m all right Jake attitude.
I wouldn`t drink it and I would not ask anyone else to either..."



Stewart,

My intent is for folks to be aware that chemicals exist in our homes, where we work, use while we live out our lives that are every bit as harmful and poisonous as photography chemicals. Sorry if I sounded like I didn't (don't) care but I do.

Here is an article that is in the Minneapolis Start Tribune newspaper today, Saturday April 3, 2010:

http://www.startribune.com/lifestyl...elr=KArks7PYDiaK7DUHPYDiaK7DUiD3aPc:_Yyc:aUUr

It's an item that perhaps you use, maybe not. Many do.

Have a wonderful Holiday.
 
Stuart said:
I wouldn`t drink it and I would not ask anyone else to either...
Click to expand...

Compared to what one flushes down the loo every day - well, given the choice I'd rather drink developer.

Developer is just chock-full-of anti-oxidants. They're good for you, right?

In any case: Catechol comes from bannanas and apples; pyro from oak trees; hydroquinone from cinchona bark; cafenol from coffee; ...

Gee, developer sounds like breakfast.
 
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