Lodima Fine Art Paper--Official reports and Member Responses

vet173

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Michael Kadillak said:
At the end of the day guys it is what it is.
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That pretty much sums it up. When you can have thousands in equipment and multiple dollars in a sheet of film the moment you click the shutter,( same cost whether you remembered to close the shutter or not) A little for chemicals. A buck and a half per sheet (8x10) ain't squat, in the end game. Fine art LF ain't no Wall-Mart sport.
 

mmcclellan

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Just put in my order! #133. If it's as great as I expect it will be, I'll be a steady customer for years to come. Thanks Michael and Paula!!!
 
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Dug

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I don't know if this has been addressed, but what is the status of the checks we mailed off a couple years ago to pre-order Lodima?
 

Alex Hawley

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Dug said:
I don't know if this has been addressed, but what is the status of the checks we mailed off a couple years ago to pre-order Lodima?
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I think that was answered a while back; as I recall, the checks are not going to be cashed. Someone else please feel free to confirm this.
 
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Michael A. Smith

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The checks that were sent to us in 2006 were never deposited, as we did not have the paper in as timely a way as we thought we would.

Likewise, the credit cards we received were never charged.

By this time, the checks are too old to be honored and most of the credit cards have expired, so we figure we are just starting over.

We can return the checks, marked VOID, or destroy them. Your preference.

Michael A. Smith
 

wilsonneal

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Developer for Lodima Fine Art?

If you don't have Amidol, what's the best commercially available developer to bring out the most from Lodima? What are people using?

Thanks,
Neal
 

David A. Goldfarb

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You might try Photographer's Forumulary 130, which is Ansco 130 in kit form. You should get a similar tonal range, but you won't get as much contrast control using a waterbath as you would with amidol, and waterbath control is a big advantage with graded paper. PF also makes kits for amidol developers, but it's an expensive way to buy it, because it doesn't have a long tray life.

I used to use Agfa Neutol WA, but there really is no comparison between Neutol WA and amidol.
 

c6h6o3

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wilsonneal said:
If you don't have Amidol, what's the best commercially available developer to bring out the most from Lodima? What are people using?

Thanks,
Neal
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Amidol is the best commercially available developer for Lodima, whether you have it or not. That's why most Azo printers use it. I don't really understand your question.

Contact Mike Jacobson at Artcraft Chemical, 800 682 1730. He sells good Amidol. You can get the rest of the chemicals you'll need to use it at The Chemistry Store. www.chemistrystore.com
 

Jerevan

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I'll have to see this to believe it, I guess. I am not totally convinced that a single developer can be the best for a given paper and nothing else is even remotely close to it. I'll have to try, of course.
 
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c6h6o3

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Jerevan said:
I'll have to see this to believe it, I guess. I am not convinced that one developer can be the best for a given paper and nothing else is even remotely close to it. I'll have to try.
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I just said it's the best. I never said that nothing else is "even remotely close". Other developers can and do come very close in terms of tonality and contrast. However, amidol gives the printer a level of control that others don't and so makes it easier to wring the absolutely best print out of a negative, even though it probably could be done with another developer.

It's a definite pain acquiring all the various ancillary chemicals you need, but once you have them you don't need to buy them again (except for maybe hypo) for a very long time. I mean, a pound of citric acid or potassium bromide is for all intents and purposes a lifetime supply.
 

c6h6o3

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I have this vision of myself on my deathbed, my wife and daughters huddled around me. I weakly raise a bony hand and motion for my girls to come closer and then I whisper: "Girls, before I go I want to know the most important things I've learned during my long life. Wisdom that hopefully you can pass on to your descendants.

One: Always split aces and eights.
Two: Never give a sucker an even break."

And then, with my dying breath I croak "Three: There is no substitute for amidol."
 

Jerevan

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c6h6o3 said:
And then, with my dying breath I croak "Three: There is no substitute for amidol."
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I think I may say the same about Rodinal. but let's not get into that... I am not sure I am capable of wringing the last ounce out of a negative but I'll take your word for it and try Amidol if I can.
 
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Michael A. Smith

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Paula and I purchased more of the "Chinese" Amidol than we will ever need and we are selling some of it for what we paid for it--$50 a pound. If anyone wants Amidol added onto their paper order, just let us know.

Michael A. Smith
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Jerevan said:
I think I may say the same about Rodinal. but let's not get into that... I am not sure I am capable of wringing the last ounce out of a negative but I'll take your word for it and try Amidol if I can.
Click to expand...

Some people like Azo in Rodinal. I suspect it's just because they haven't tried amidol, but if you're pledged to Rodinal, it's worth a try.
 

jgjbowen

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Remember, Azo is/was capable of quite a range of tones (image colors) depending on the developer used. Many folks like the image color they receive with Michael Smith's Amidol formula. I have developed Azo in Dektol 1:2, Neutol WA and MAS Amidol. I prefer the Amidol. In addition to the image color, you have the advantage of varying the contrast of the paper by use of a water bath. A water bath is not useful with Dektol. Check out the Azo forum for all things related to Silver Chloride papers (Azo, Lodima, Haloid, etc) www.michaelandpaula.com

Best,
John
 

Ian Grant

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Some people, well actually most photographers will never use Lodima paper because it's only a contact paper. That doesn't mean it's not a good product, but it has a very limited & small market. If you're happy to only make contact prints it's the best paper available, but enlarged 10x8 and larger negatives are awesome and just a few steps further.

Ian
 

jgjbowen

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Ian,

I agree, Lodima likely has a small market, but I have seen some wonderful, jewel-like prints by Peter Schrager contact printed on Azo with MF negatives. I believe Paula Chamlee also has a series of Azo prints contact printed from Hasselblad negatives. Me, I prefer 8x10 & 7x17 "in camera" negatives to contact print on Azo. Others, including Sandy King, produce digitally enlarged negatives to use with Alternative Processes such as Azo, Platinum or Carbon. Others might want to contact print their 4x5 negatives on Azo/Lodima.

Perhaps now that Lodima is "almost" here, the gentleman who developed the "Cold One" Azo enlarging light head for Beseler and Omega enlargers will produce some additional heads that will permit folks to enlarge on Lodima. Who knows???

John
 

Michael Kadillak

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I would venture to say that you have never seen Azo contact prints from Michael Smith or Paula Chamlee in person because if you did you would understand why they work exclusively with a sliver chloride contact paper and Amidol. They are visually stunning with a capital "S".

Even Adams in one of his books says that no matter the size of the negative there is a bit of visual "edge" that is sacrificed when one projection prints relative to contact printing. Basic physics where you get one thing and give up another.

After meeting Michael and Paula and seeing said prints mentioned above I have not touch my 5x7 and 10x10 Durst enlarger in a very very long time.

Just my $0.02.
 

juan

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Fred Picker once wrote about being able to see a difference between a 4x5 contact print and a 4x5 projection print from a 4x5 negative with the contact print being superior.

juan
 

Photo Engineer

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A contact print is always superior to a print made through a lens! The lens, no matter how good, indeed, the entire optical train of the enlarger act to degrade quality even if only minutely.

PE
 
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