Lodima Fine Art - Developers?

BradS · Aug 31, 2009

Ok, I know that one is supposed to develop Lodima Fine Art in Amidol but, what else works? or does not work? What are the disadvantages of using something like Dektol? or Agfa 130?

Or would one be shunned, tarred and feathered for such heresy?

(I've already been shunned for not freezing film and not using a spot meter)

keeds · Aug 31, 2009

Neutol WA works great.

Ian Grant · Aug 31, 2009

Agfa 130 or Agfa Ansco (GAF) 130, this is one that differs between US Ansco and German Agfa developer which is MQ & no Glycin.

Ian

Shawn Dougherty · Aug 31, 2009

I've found PF130 gives excellent results. Very close to what I achieve with amidol, though without the ability to use a water bath. I've found I prefer the color the amidol (MAS formula with extra KBr) gives...

This has been discussed in several threads already, try a quick search for "lodima". Best. Shawn

Trevor Crone · Aug 31, 2009

Harman/Ilford WT diluted 1:9 for 1 minute gave pleasing results. Slightly warmer then Amidol. However I do prefer the 'look' that Amidol gives especially when combined with selenium toning.

It is good practice to do some side by side tests to check out the subtleties this paper provides.

Mahler_one · Aug 31, 2009

I believe you will learn some of what you need to know from the following article- which is referenced at MichaelandPaula.com., and is also on Ed Buffaloe's wonderfully informative site.

http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/DJ_curves_article.htm

gbenaim · Aug 31, 2009

Brad,

Though the ansco will get you pretty close to amidol, it isn't quite the same, and the ability to use a water bath cannot be overlooked. It's just an extra level of control and fine tuning that can make a big difference. I'd give it a try, and see what you think.

jgjbowen · Aug 31, 2009

Brad,

I think you will find Lodima to be a most versitile paper. I'm sure you could use almost any developer and get a print. The beauty of this paper (if it is ANYTHING like Azo) will be in the subtle changes in print color available from using different developers/toners etc. I enjoy the ability to use a waterbath and as such have just today purchased a large quantity of Amidol from Artcraft. The tone can be slightly varied by increasing the amount of Kbr added to the developer, extended toning will also give a slight color shift. I have also used Neutol WA and Dektol. I didn't like the color of Dektol. If I only need to make a couple quick prints I'll often mix up a litre of Neutol WA vs a batch of Amidol. I've never tried Ansco 130, but folks whose opinions I trust say it works pretty well.

Personally, I've piggy backed on MAS' work and tend to follow his procedures.

Isn't it great to be able to discuss a NEW product rather than mourning the loss of our old favorites!

Shawn Dougherty · Aug 31, 2009

jgjbowen said:
Isn't it great to be able to discuss a NEW product rather than mourning the loss of our old favorites!

Amen.

c6h6o3 · Aug 31, 2009

jgjbowen said:
The tone can be slightly varied by increasing the amount of Kbr added to the developer, extended toning will also give a slight color shift.

The test box of Lodima that I bought renders the most beautiful print color I've ever seen. I developed it in Artcraft amidol (MAS formula, 3cc KBr). I liked the color so much that I didn't tone it for fear that it would change. In this respect, at least, I find it superior to Azo.

I can't understand the lengths to which people will go to avoid using amidol. I know that it's a PIA to get started with, because of all the ancillary chemicals you have to buy, but once you lay in a supply of those you won't use anything else. Quick and easy to mix, blackest of blacks on silver chloride paper.

c6h6o3 · Aug 31, 2009

jgjbowen said:
The tone can be slightly varied by increasing the amount of Kbr added to the developer, extended toning will also give a slight color shift.

The test box of Lodima that I bought renders the most beautiful print color I've ever seen. I developed it in Artcraft amidol. I liked the color so much that I didn't tone it for fear that it would change. In this respect, at least, I find it superior to Azo.

I can't understand the lengths to which people will go to avoid using amidol. I know that it's a PIA to get started with, because of all the ancillary chemicals you have to buy, but once you lay in a supply of those you won't use anything else. Quick and easy to mix, blackest of blacks on silver chloride paper.

JLP · Aug 31, 2009

Agree Jim, I did not want to tone either, the color is just spot on for my taste.
I have so far only used the Chinese Amidol and it is a little extra work to get it filtered but otherwise it works well for me.
Are there any difference in print color compared to the English Amidol from Art Craft?

c6h6o3 · Aug 31, 2009

JLP said:
Are there any difference in print color compared to the English Amidol from Art Craft?

Haven't developed the same negative in both in order to tell.

However, I can tell you that I actually prefer the Chinese amidol. I hate having to filter it, I hate the way you can't see the print in the tray, I hate the way it turns the print and my fixer yellow BUT it yields denser blacks on Azo than the gray stuff. Patent leather black on all grades of Azo, even Canadian grade 2. I haven't tried it yet on the Lodima paper.

Mahler_one · Aug 31, 2009

I agree about the tone with the Lodima and Art Craft Amidol....no reason to tone unless one thinks that selenium will add to the longevity of the print. Most of us will be long gone before our prints turn, selenium or not. Some have found the Lodiam and amidol to be slightly to the greenish side....have any of you?

JLP · Aug 31, 2009

Thanks Jim, Lodima looks fabulous in the Chinese Amidol at least from my limited experience. I do ad a bit more Kbr than what MAS recomends. The color of the Chinese Amidol when filtered is pretty but yes, not easy to see the print.

Michael A. Smith · Sep 1, 2009

I certainly believe Amidol as the print developer gives the best print color and richest tones in a print. When combined with Lodima paper, in my opinion, the results are as good as a silver print can be. I have seen photographs on other papers and printed with other developers that are also excellent, but a lot more effort is involved in getting there and there are only a few times I have seen this. And rarely with more than a print or two.

When the paper arrives, and possibly before, as Paula and I have a small stock of the "pre-production run," we will be offering a selection of "example prints" at prices greatly reduced from our regular print prices. We will be doing this so those not familiar with the paper can see for themselves what it is capable of. And those who already know how the paper can print, can purchase the photographs just to have them. We will be offering these in limited editions, as we do not want to print many of anything.

In the next week or two we will be making an announcement about delivery dates for the paper.

Michael A. Smith

Scott Peters · Sep 15, 2009

Amidol just fine

No green tint with Amidol. And actually, when you get down to the amount of prints you can run through it in a session...it's not that expensive. A little bit goes a long way. given the price of film and camera gear...don't chince, give azo the best shot, use amidol. or at least try it.

vet173 · Sep 17, 2009

I've tried it in dektol 1:1, ansco130, and amidol. I think anyone who looks at a print done in each by anybody, will prefer the amidol print. Anso130 close but not quite, dektol not in the running by comparison. You will be tired of printing long before the developer gives up the ghost. I had to break into my chinese amidol last session. Quite the bother from my black amidol, but well worth it. With the color, I was surprised at the amount of carryover. I recommend a fresh water bath with each print. I wish I could set the color stain from the amidol. I kinda like it. I might try some lith with what I have left. I have found this paper prints well when neg printed requires about 1 stop more than minimum-to-black.

payral · Sep 23, 2009

Michael A. Smith said:
In the next week or two we will be making an announcement about delivery dates for the paper.

Michael A. Smith

Did I miss the annoucement ? If somebody can point me to it.

Michael A. Smith · Sep 23, 2009

No announcement yet. When I have a relatively definite word regarding delivery, I will send an email to everyone who ordered the paper, as well as announce it on the Azo Forum, APUG, and the LF Forum.

The emulsion has been made and I believe the paper is being coated this week.

Michael A. Smith

doughowk · Sep 23, 2009

Paula Chamlee said its easy to get good blacks & whites; its the colors in between that are difficult. So what does Amidol give me vs Ansco PF 130 as to those middle gray tones? Does one separate the middle values better than the other?

I'm looking forward to the Lodima delivery. Doug Kennedy has made me a custom frame for 8X20 paper, so I'll be printing most of my 7X17s for the 1st time.

c6h6o3 · Sep 23, 2009

doughowk said:
So what does Amidol give me vs Ansco PF 130 as to those middle gray tones? Does one separate the middle values better than the other?

Why not try it and find out? If Ansco 130 yielded better middle values than amidol Paula would certainly be using it. And there's no better silver chloride printer alive.

Lodima Fine Art - Developers?

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