Lith print with normal developer

eskimo · Jan 27, 2012

Hello,
there're a lot of specialized lith developer; lith process start when a hydroquinone developer is used. Anyone has experience diluting Ilford Multigrade developer to have a lith print? normally it is diluted at 1+9 but maybe with high dilution you can have lith print. Furthermore i red that old and exausted developer is better to have lith print.
Any experience?

thanks
Paolo

ps. the same question for tetenal Eukobrom developer...

paul_c5x4 · Jan 27, 2012

A lith developer has a high PH, often around 11. It is (usually) low in bromide, and high in hydroquinone compared to sulphite content. According to Tim Rudman, it is possible to simulate an infectious development process with a dilute MG dev, but you need to add a hydroxide solution to raise the PH first.

eskimo · Jan 27, 2012

so if i'd dilute my 1:9 mutligrade dev to 1:50 or 1:100 i will always have a Ph problem?

Mark Fisher · Jan 27, 2012

Yep.....that said, I was able to get sodium hydroxide from the hardware store as drain cleaner (highly caustic, use gloves, need to read lable to get right stuff). If you do use NaOH, make sure you add it slowly to the developer stirring. It heats up as it dissolves. Anyway, you'll need ph strips or a ph meter (I have a cheap one for aquariums). I'd just get the real lith developer. Life is short. Also, diluting regular developer isn't the same as diluting lith developer. You'd need to experiment with the dilution. Sounds like an interesting experiment.

eskimo · Jan 27, 2012

maybe with Na2CO3 (Sodium carbonate) would be less dangerous...and it could be found as easily as sodium hidroxide, ?

Gerald C Koch · Jan 27, 2012

Sodium carbonate is not going to provide the high pH needed. You need sodium hydroxide. Be careful some drain cleaners contain aluminum turnings or other chemicals. The aluminum generates gas and provides agitation in the drain. Buy plain lye such as Red Devil brand.

eskimo · Jan 28, 2012

mmmmhh so i think i'll go with a lith dev...
thanks!

Jerevan · Jan 28, 2012

You can look at this recipe, (there was a url link here which no longer exists) , if you would like to mix your own lith developer.

eskimo · Jan 28, 2012

thanks, i think i'll start with homemade recipes. Lith developers are too expensive...thanks
but i red about a Tetenal Neutol NE high dilution that provides lith results...do you know? (and with eukobrom?)

phelger · Jan 28, 2012

hi eskimo,
Moersch in Germany sells f.ex. Easylith and at a very reasonable price:

http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/content/shop/lith/34

peter

Mark Fisher · Jan 28, 2012

I'm not sure where you are located, but Freestyle sells their Arista lith developer very inexpensively. It isn't my favorite if I want a colorful result, but it does work well. The one caution is that the Arista has formaldehyde while the Moersch and Rollei/Maco do not. Personally, I'd recommend buying a commercial product first so you know what a good lith print looks like before going with homebrews. It will be hard for you to judge the homebrews otherwise

Lith print with normal developer

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