Liquid vs. powder for C-41 economy?

Photo Engineer

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Mick;

I'm sorry but you really have to use the stabilzer designed for the specific film. At this point, I believe that EK and Fuji have diverged somewhat in stabilzer formulation and that EK is using a proprietary stabilzer.

This is particularly true of E6 chemistry where the pre-bleach contains some of the stabilzing chemistry.

There are comments on the respective manufacturers web pages, so I refer you to them for full information. There is also a recent post regarding this on PN. Dan Sapper, a product engineer at EK has answered some of this in detail and I don't wish to just cut and paste his comments out of the context of the entire thread over there.

PE
 

Nick Zentena

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PE could you point us to the thread? The only one I found was one claiming only Kodak final rinse was formaldehyde free. Which kind of conflicts with Fuji's claims.
 

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Photo Engineer

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Nick Zentena said:
PE could you point us to the thread? The only one I found was one claiming only Kodak final rinse was formaldehyde free. Which kind of conflicts with Fuji's claims.

Please read Dan Sapper's post regarding dye stability of the pre-bleach.

This would imply that dye stability would suffer in any process for Kodak film that didn't use their pre-bleach. IDK.

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PE
 

Nick Zentena

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http://www.fujihuntusa.com/html/pro_e6.asp

Scroll down to the bottom

"Designed for processing all color reversal films compatible with process E-6. This final rinse is formaldehyde free and must be used with PRO6 Conditioner Plus to achieve proper dye stabilization."


I guess the two make a matched set. The conditioner and the final rinse. Kodak calls it pre-bleach. I don't know if they are different. But it seems either can be used with any film. If you stick to Fuji conditioner and final rinse. Or Kodak pre-bleach and final. No?
 

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Yes, for E6, but this is not the case for C41. Two different stabilzers are used for two different families of film. The current Portra takes the newer stabilzer or the older one, but the older films cannot use the newer stabilzer.

In fact, this may also be the case with E6, older films and newer films requiring different stabilzers. IDK for sure. There was, as I posted above, some comment on the Kodak site about segregating films wrt stabilzer.

PE
 

Nick Zentena

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Same info is on the Fuji website. With the newer final step [not sure if it should be called a stabilzer or not] it can't be used with the older film. Fuji or Kodak. But it's supposed to be fine with both Fuji and Kodak's newest film.
 
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If you like Kodak C41, you won`t like Unicolor. It is a very long story that I will shorten to say it produces punchy saturated colors as designed by Unicolor. I spent a lot of time on long distance phone with them and their local sales guy when I screwed up a lot of Ektar 25. Originally it was good stuff and I did a lot of fine work with it. Unless you can detirmine they changed it back, forget it.

now I use the powder press packs. They are very much C41 character.

Comes with powder stabiliser if a Tetanol kit.
 
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Donald Qualls

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Oh, boy, this is *deeply* confusing -- the Arista E-6 kit doesn't even include stabilizer, it's a three-bath E-6 (first dev, color dev, and blix) plus 2-3 wash steps, of course. It seems like I'm reading that this isn't really even E-6, it's something else that happens to be capable of developing E-6 films (but perhaps not leaving them in a state even as permanent as E-6 ought to be). And further, I'm hearing that there are two diffferent C-41 stabilizers, and the new one can't be used on old films (and what constitutes an "old" film, anyway?).

I think this is why people have been telling me, for the past thirty-five years or so, that color was too complicated to process yourself (or course, when I first heard that, they were talking about E-3 and C-22). Every time you try to get the information you need to do this, you wind up with fourteen answers to a simple question, and no idea how to tell which one applies to your situation, without spending a bunch of money.

Nick, you're right, $58 *is* less than the Arista one-gallon kit (that liquid kit is $67, approximately). But with shipping, $58 in liquid chemicals can quickly turn into a $120 order (because liquids are heavy, plus hazmat charges, plus, plus, plus), and I seem to recall complaints that B&H doesn't tell you shipping until after you've confirmed the order. And do you have *any idea* how long it would take me to use four, 5-gallon jugs of fixer, even if I do use the same for both color and B&W (even if I one-shot it)? Hint: I've got a 5 liter bottle of Polymax RT concentrate here that I've been one-shotting for about six months at 1+7; it's about half gone.

The best list of chemicals in the world isn't much good if I can't find a dealer who both has them and will ship them. Local access is pretty much out in a town of 80,000; even in Raleigh and Charlotte I don't know that I'd expect to find a dealer who carries color chemicals; I'm not even sure what listing to look under in the online yellow pages. The local mini-labs most likely get their stuff from a truck that comes around once a week or so, from a dealer in D.C. or Baltimore or Richmond or Atlanta (I should be so lucky as to find one in Richmond, I could just about drive there and back for what it costs to ship several gallons of liquid).
 

Nick Zentena

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Doesn't Kodak have a 1-800 number for pros to locate suppliers etc? Odds are a local [more or less] distributor handles all this stuff.

The thing about the 5 gallon fixer just is it's only a little more then the 1 gallon. Even if you throw half of it out it'll be cheaper.
 
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Donald Qualls

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Photo Engineer said:
Color is not complicated, but it is proprietary.

That is why you should use Fuji or EK kits.

I agree, PE, on what I *should* do. However, if the way I *should* is the only way I can or will, I never will because of my budget (we've discussed that before); the kits sold by Kodak and Fuji just cost too much per roll (more than local 120 processing, and never mind the 35 mm). However, I've still got to try to find a local supplier for the bulk concentrates; if I can get good life from the concentrates, the Kodak setup posted a while back should do the job nicely and with reasonable economy.
 
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Donald Qualls

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If "local [more or less]" is in Charlotte, it might well be cheaper to pay shipping than to drive down and get it; it'd cost me about $40 in gas for the round trip.

But it's worth a few calls -- I'll check the Kodak web site for 800 numbers.
 
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