Liquid emulsion recommendations?

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logan2z

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I've become interested in trying to make silver gelatin prints using hand-coated liquid emulsion on paper and am looking for suggestions for the best emulsion to begin with (Note: I'm looking for a commercially available emulsion, I'm not currently interested in making my own).

The most popular commercial products seem to be Liquid Light, Rolei Black Magic, and Adox Polywarmtone. Prices for these products seem to vary widely, from about $50 for Liquid Light and Polywarmtone to $80 for Rolei Black Magic (all approx. 300ml). The Rolei looks interesting because it's the only one that seems to be available in a variable contrast formula, but of course it's the most expensive.

Is one of these products more appropriate for someone trying hand-coating for the first time? Do they all require the paper to be coated with a gelatin first? Are hardeners required to make the emulsion as durable as a manufactured paper like Ilford Multigrade? Paper recommendations would be appreciated as well.

Thanks in advance!
 

AtlantaArtist

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Hi, I have used Liquid Light and Rollei. Liquid light used to not be so great but they improved it when they did away with a premium option named AG+. They all behave the same way coating-wise. You may be deeper blacks with the Rollei. I used a bunch on glass and the darks never really got that dark. They say you can apply two coats but then it takes a long time to fix. You don't have to coat the paper with gelatin first but it will absorb less emulsion if you don't. I used to coat on fabric and it turned out but soaked up a ton. I'm about to coat black paper and am researching how to size, that's why I'm nosing around here.

Pro tips: Only melt what emulsion you are going to use as every time you heat it, you increase risk of fogging. Don't heat emulsion higher than 120 degrees F, 115 is good. Use a double boiler type of set up - make sure the heating element does not directly touch the bottom of the vessel that contains the emulsion because that zone of contact will end up being hotter than 120 degrees. Don't have the safelight too close. Have air circulation when drying and make sure there is no safelight or any light leaks into the drying area during the hours of drying.

When I am about to coat, I cut open the whole plastic container and cut off what I think I'll need. You can try to dig it out of the wider containers, but not the tall Liquid light one. I store the rest in a metal reel tank with lid, in the fridge, taped shut with a sign on it to keep curious people away.

Coating on paper or fabric is the easiest way to get started. Probably sizing will be best. I usually do glass and metal which are more challenging. Good luck!

@seanphotoart on instagram if you are curious
 

Reginald S

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I have started with Foma's emulsion and will stay with it.
Found it a good way to start with success.



Note that this prize is without taxes but may give you an idea for comparing prizes in your region/country.
 

bambiwallace

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the polywarmtone emulsion tones beautifully in selenium. much prefer anything to liquid liqht due to narrow opening of the bottle. it's so much easier and preferable to scoop out only the emulsion you need and will be melting.
 
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logan2z

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I have started with Foma's emulsion and will stay with it.
Found it a good way to start with success.



Note that this prize is without taxes but may give you an idea for comparing prizes in your region/country.

I haven't had a good experience with Foma fiber paper - the emulsion seems very delicate. Not sure I trust their bottled emulsion for the same reason.
 
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You can squeeze the Liquid Light right emulsion out of the bottle like tooth paste, stick a plastic knife up there and cut it up and squeeze it out, It will be OK. If you use a thin smooth paper like Borden and Reilly found on the pad it will be easy to coat (and cheeper to coat) compared to some sort of fancy shag rug watercolor paper. Use plain old fixer (sodium hyposulfate ) works best. Keep things simple.
 
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